What a wonderful place Albany is. Here the town, old and new, wraps itself around the briny boundaries of the various harbours and waterways and above it all, the glowering granite hulks of Mounts Clarence, Adelaide and Melville stand imperious, impervious to the suburban tsunami sweeping around them like the back surge of white water off the huge rocks of the rugged southern coast not so far away.
Where to begin with Albany? We found that gaining an understanding of the different bodies of water which make up the Albany harbour, and to a large extent define the city, was a useful starting point.
As this less than ideal map (the best I could do after a considerable Internet search) shows, Albany is built around its utterly magnificent harbour, which itself has three main components. Oyster Harbour, at the top of the map, is connected by a small channel at Emu Point (number 20) to the main body of water, King George Sound, where, as you will see later, the large bulk grain and wood chip carriers anchor whilst they wait their turn to load at the Port of Albany (number 18).
Access to the port area is gained through the narrows know as Ataturk Entrance (more on this later) which runs between the main body of the land and the narrow northward extending peninsula, Possession Point (above number 7). The working port is situated on Princess Royal Harbour and beyond that, at the bottom of King George Sound, (number 11) is Frenchman Bay and the old whaling station.
Middleton Beach stretches between Emu Point (number 20) and Wooding Point (number 19) whilst the Albany CBD lies just to the north of the top of Princess Royal Harbour (number 16). Dominating the entire scene are the massive granite lumps of Mount Clarence, Mount Adelaide and Mount Melville.
I crave your indulgence for this somewhat prosaic introduction to what has become one of my favourite areas to date in our travels, but it will hopefully provide a perspective for what is to follow. Apart from anything else, the similarities between Albany and my old home town of Port Lincoln are staggering...a massive deep water port of three main bays, surrounding large hills, a huge bulk grain loading wharf and a town of approximately the same population. And whilst on the subject of comparisons, Townsville rates a mention here...another place where there is no such thing as a straight line between one area and another...there is always a mountain in between and local street navigation is an acquired art!
Let's try to introduce a bit of colour and movement. The huge bulk of Mount Clarence/Mount Adelaide separates old Albany, the CBD and the port from the Middleton Beach area and Emu Point. In the absence of airborne support it is impossible to capture the entire vista which is Albany, so I have had to resort to a piecemeal approach. I hope you get the picture (sorry!)
Our tour of Albany begins with these three photos looking across Princess Royal Harbour from its western shore.
The peak of Mount Melville can be seen at the left of shot. 'Old' Albany tumbles down to the harbour between Melville, and as we pan right,
the even more impressive bulk of Mounts Clarence (at the left) and Mount Adelaide. This enormous ridge of granite extends south from the old town to the edge of King George Sound. Below this you can see the huge silos of the working port, and, as we pan even further to the right,
looking to the right of the last of the harbour infrastructure, Ataturk Entrance, the access route to the port can just be made out between King Point to the left and the northern end of Possession Point to the right, against the backdrop of the hills of the eastern side of King George Sound.
The lofty heights of Mounts Clarence and Adelaide stand between the Port of Albany and the old town, and Middleton Beach, Lake Sepping and Emu Point, all of which stretch away to the north-east. Annoyingly, the best vantage point from which to take in the different Albany vistas, the top of Mount Clarence, is currently closed to the public because of infrastructure works being done (and running late).
There has to be some alternative! After a bit of serious nosing about I came across a track which wends its way around the northern face of Mt Adelaide. Not as high as Mount Clarence, but this will have to do. And it is a track, believe me, which snakes its way through the thick scrub for quite a distance
until it brings its intrepid trampers out onto this huge granite slab
from which the vista of the northern suburbs of Albany comes into view.
Panning now to the right, we can take in the sandy sweep of Middleton Beach, the narrow neck at Emu Point beyond which is Oyster Harbour, and for something much less salty, the freshwater expanse of Lake Sepping which lies between the beach and the 'burbs'.
This closer shot shows the Albany golf course which runs along the coast and which is reputed to be one of the finest in the country (don't they all say that?) Our caravan park is located on the point just beyond the far end of the beach strip.
Again panning to the right we can see over the southern end of Middleton Beach and out across King George Sound with Michaelmas and Breaksea Islands showing up on the horizon.
The bulk of the mountain prevented any views of the water south-west of this point, so, undeterred and determined, I scrambled back off this side of the mountain and made my way along Marine Drive which runs around the eastern end of the Mt Clarence/Mt Adelaide massif.
From here other vantage points become available and I snapped away!
Here, on the horizon mid shot, we can see Flinders Peninsula and Bald Head which marks the southern point of the entrance into King George Sound. Frenchman Bay and the whaling station lie in the area where the bulk of the peninsula is at its lowest. The rocky outcrop on the right side of the photo is the northern tip of Possession Point, and between it and the scrubby headland over which I took this shot, lies Ataturk Entrance, the passage through which ships pass from King George Sound into the Port of Albany (it is wider than it looks from here...but not much..it is a tight squeeze for the 50,000 tonne ships which make the passage through!)
It would be remiss of me to go further without some comment about the naming of this critical Albany port waterway. Why on earth does it bear the name of the Turkish commander who led his troops to victory over the ANZACS at Gallipoli? At first blush this would seem to be at least odd, if not downright unpatriotic. Not so. There is a direct link between Albany and Anzac Cove.
Seeing we are now delving into some of Albany's history, let's begin at the beginning. Albany was founded in December 1826 when a group of military personnel arrived here on the brig 'Amity' from the colony of NSW. Their purpose? To build and maintain a military outpost in the west of the country to forestall any possible French ambitions in the region.
In 1831 control of the outpost was handed to Governor James Stirling of the newly established Swan River Colony. During the late 19th Century, the harbour of Albany remained the only reliable deep water port in the country as a result of which, apart from serving the early goldfields, it was the first port of call for most vessels arriving in the antipodes from distant Europe. All this changed in 1897 when a channel was blasted to clear the entrance of the Swan River and the port of Fremantle was born.
Now, whilst shipping continued to play a role in the town's commercial life, agriculture, timber felling and whaling became more significant. As we know the whaling industry was closed in 1978. Tourism, fishing, agriculture and wine production are now mainstays of the Albany districts commercial scene,
whilst shipping retains an important place with the export of grain and woodchips from bulk handling facilities at the port of Albany (photo lifted from the Internet!)
Returning to the 'Ataturk' connection. In October 1914 a huge convoy of ships gathered in Albany Harbour. The purpose....to carry Australian and New Zealand troops to the shores of Gallipoli and that ill fated campaign so wretchedly mismanaged by the British commanders of the time. Albany was chosen as the assembly point, partly because of the ready availability of coal and water for the ships' boilers and also because, probably apart from Port Lincoln, it was the only harbour of sufficient size to handle this muster. Sydney-siders will probably dispute this, but despite its fame, the Sydney harbour is not a patch on Albany or Lincoln when it comes to the real nitty gritty....big ships and lots of them, all at anchor at the same time in sheltered waters.
On 1 November 1914 the first convoy of 38 ships carrying 30,000 troops and 7,500 horses left for Turkey. As a quick aside, I was fascinated to discover that of the 7 warships which sailed as convoy escort, one was the Japanese battle cruiser 'Ibuki'.....we were then on the same side. A second smaller convoy followed in late December.
In memory of this direct connection between Albany and Gallipoli (and I suspect, in no small way as a direct tribute to the respect the Anzac and Turkish troops had for each other irrespective the carnage in which they were involved), coupled with the Turkish retention of the name 'Anzac Cove' at the Gallipoli beach head, the entrance to the port of Albany now bears the name of Mestafa Kemal Ataturk, the Turkish commander at Gallipoli. Mestafa Kemal, apart from being a brilliant battle field commander was also a man of great compassion. It was he who said of the Anzac and British dead,
"Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives...You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side now here in this country of ours....You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well."
Mestafa Kemal late went on to become the founder of modern Turkey. Such was his ability and charisma that the secular Ataturk is still widely respected in the Muslim world.
Enough of history for the moment. What is to be seen in Albany today? We begin at the top of York Street, Albany's main street (historically if not commercially any more), where three main roads the Albany Highway, Middleton Road and Lockyer Avenue converge.
Here we find the monument to one Sir Anthony Horden, an early NSW settler and businessman whose vision and financial wherewithal saw the development of the vital rail link which first directly connected the port of Albany to Perth.
Turning 180 degrees at this point, we can look straight down York street to the waters of Princess Royal Harbour.
Unsurprisingly, York Street houses the impressive bulk of the Albany Town Hall Mount Melville in the background).
Looking east from this intersection down Grey Street, it is easy to see the proximity of Mount Clarence to the old town main street.
A little further down York Street is the Uniting Church building, circa 1891,
and across the road, at the next intersection we find a War Remembrance memorial (there are several in Albany) behind which peeks the top of the bell tower of the impressive Anglican church.
Apart from the inherent charm of this old building,
it is set in the most delightful garden surrounds of which this photo shows but a snippet.
Looking at the Anglican church prompts me to take another historical detour at this point. And again it relates to WW1. Padre Arthur White sailed with the first Anzac convoy and served for a number of years as the chaplain to the 44th Battalion AIF. Repatriated to Australia in 1918 as a result of gassing on the western front, White celebrated a Requiem Mass for the battle dead at St Johns, Albany, the very church I had been looking at. At this service he is reputed to have said, "Albany was the last sight of land our troops saw of Australia. Perhaps we should commemorate them this way every Anzac Day".
Nothing more happened until 1929 when White returned to the town as the Rector of Albany. On 25 April 1930, he celebrated a dawn Eucharist at 0600 hours and then joined other parishioners on the top of Mount Clarence to watch a boatman drop a wreath onto King George Sound. Believe it or not, this was the birth of the universal 'Dawn Service'! And to complete the story....why dawn? This was the favoured time of an infantry attack when it was hoped the enemy eyes would not be well served by the half light. Consequently, troops in defensive positions were always aroused well before dawn in order that, as they stood to their weapons, they had acquired a 'half light vision' the equal of their attackers. Fascinating stuff!
Beyond the Anglican Church my wandering took me along the western side of Stirling Terrace. Here I discovered the old Albany Gaol building in front of which is the Albany's historical society's granite tribute to the three mariners whose activities greatly influenced the founding of Albany, Lieut's M Flinders and P P King and Captain G Vancouver.
At the far end of the gaol compound, with its wonderfully old fashioned security top of broken bottle shards, the replica of the brig Amity comes into view. As I mentioned previously, this is the ship which brought what amounted to the first British settlers to Albany.
And here I must make an admission. With everything we have done since arriving in Albany I have run out of 'tourist puff'. Amity, Anzac Peace park and the old Mount Adelaide forts complex will just have to wait until we return in the latter part of March.
Returning east along Stirling Terrace I passed the Albany Police complex, where the modern police building has been cleverly wrapped around the original station building.
Next door the Courts buildings are again the 'old and the new' side by side.
From about this point the view looking east along Stirling Terrace across the York Street intersection includes the rather incongruous Tudor styled building which now serves to house the Albany Citizens' Advice Bureau, a group of original commercial buildings and a few houses dotted across the lower western slopes of Mount Clarence.
Just beyond this spot stands one of Albany's first pubs, The London. This has obviously fallen on hard commercial times and is currently for sale.
In the final bit of this tour of the old Albany CBD we look down at Princess Royal Harbour from the intersection of York Street and Stirling Terrace where the green lawn of the Anzac Peace Park abuts the shore and one part of the sloping roof of the extraordinary Albany Entertainment centre can be seen rising over the lower York Street buildings.
Surprisingly for me, York Street did not absolutely abound with old buildings. It is pretty clear that many have been demolished to make way for more modern commercial structures. Actually, the vast majority of Albany's commercial activity is conducted in several large shopping centres and industrial hubs which are quite disassociated from the old town centre of York Street.
We have come to favour the Dog Rock shopping complex which lies just beyond the four way intersection at the upper end of York Street. Dog Rock? Here's the answer!
A large lump of local granite which so closely resembles the upturned snout of a large dog it is hard to believe it is an entirely natural phenomenon. Mind you, the human intervention of the painted collar does help! What a hoot...
Well, I've had it. Enough for one blog. Yet to come (goodness knows quite just when...this has taken seven hours in all...tomorrow I'm going fishing) the Albany markets, the port area, Oyster Bay, Emu Point and the Kalgan River cruise, the whaling station (external visit only...I have no desire to watch whales being killed on film) and the grandeur which is the southern end of Flinders Peninsula. I told you we have been busy here in Albany!
Where to begin with Albany? We found that gaining an understanding of the different bodies of water which make up the Albany harbour, and to a large extent define the city, was a useful starting point.
As this less than ideal map (the best I could do after a considerable Internet search) shows, Albany is built around its utterly magnificent harbour, which itself has three main components. Oyster Harbour, at the top of the map, is connected by a small channel at Emu Point (number 20) to the main body of water, King George Sound, where, as you will see later, the large bulk grain and wood chip carriers anchor whilst they wait their turn to load at the Port of Albany (number 18).
Access to the port area is gained through the narrows know as Ataturk Entrance (more on this later) which runs between the main body of the land and the narrow northward extending peninsula, Possession Point (above number 7). The working port is situated on Princess Royal Harbour and beyond that, at the bottom of King George Sound, (number 11) is Frenchman Bay and the old whaling station.
Middleton Beach stretches between Emu Point (number 20) and Wooding Point (number 19) whilst the Albany CBD lies just to the north of the top of Princess Royal Harbour (number 16). Dominating the entire scene are the massive granite lumps of Mount Clarence, Mount Adelaide and Mount Melville.
I crave your indulgence for this somewhat prosaic introduction to what has become one of my favourite areas to date in our travels, but it will hopefully provide a perspective for what is to follow. Apart from anything else, the similarities between Albany and my old home town of Port Lincoln are staggering...a massive deep water port of three main bays, surrounding large hills, a huge bulk grain loading wharf and a town of approximately the same population. And whilst on the subject of comparisons, Townsville rates a mention here...another place where there is no such thing as a straight line between one area and another...there is always a mountain in between and local street navigation is an acquired art!
Let's try to introduce a bit of colour and movement. The huge bulk of Mount Clarence/Mount Adelaide separates old Albany, the CBD and the port from the Middleton Beach area and Emu Point. In the absence of airborne support it is impossible to capture the entire vista which is Albany, so I have had to resort to a piecemeal approach. I hope you get the picture (sorry!)
Our tour of Albany begins with these three photos looking across Princess Royal Harbour from its western shore.
The peak of Mount Melville can be seen at the left of shot. 'Old' Albany tumbles down to the harbour between Melville, and as we pan right,
the even more impressive bulk of Mounts Clarence (at the left) and Mount Adelaide. This enormous ridge of granite extends south from the old town to the edge of King George Sound. Below this you can see the huge silos of the working port, and, as we pan even further to the right,
looking to the right of the last of the harbour infrastructure, Ataturk Entrance, the access route to the port can just be made out between King Point to the left and the northern end of Possession Point to the right, against the backdrop of the hills of the eastern side of King George Sound.
The lofty heights of Mounts Clarence and Adelaide stand between the Port of Albany and the old town, and Middleton Beach, Lake Sepping and Emu Point, all of which stretch away to the north-east. Annoyingly, the best vantage point from which to take in the different Albany vistas, the top of Mount Clarence, is currently closed to the public because of infrastructure works being done (and running late).
There has to be some alternative! After a bit of serious nosing about I came across a track which wends its way around the northern face of Mt Adelaide. Not as high as Mount Clarence, but this will have to do. And it is a track, believe me, which snakes its way through the thick scrub for quite a distance
until it brings its intrepid trampers out onto this huge granite slab
from which the vista of the northern suburbs of Albany comes into view.
Panning now to the right, we can take in the sandy sweep of Middleton Beach, the narrow neck at Emu Point beyond which is Oyster Harbour, and for something much less salty, the freshwater expanse of Lake Sepping which lies between the beach and the 'burbs'.
This closer shot shows the Albany golf course which runs along the coast and which is reputed to be one of the finest in the country (don't they all say that?) Our caravan park is located on the point just beyond the far end of the beach strip.
Again panning to the right we can see over the southern end of Middleton Beach and out across King George Sound with Michaelmas and Breaksea Islands showing up on the horizon.
The bulk of the mountain prevented any views of the water south-west of this point, so, undeterred and determined, I scrambled back off this side of the mountain and made my way along Marine Drive which runs around the eastern end of the Mt Clarence/Mt Adelaide massif.
From here other vantage points become available and I snapped away!
Here, on the horizon mid shot, we can see Flinders Peninsula and Bald Head which marks the southern point of the entrance into King George Sound. Frenchman Bay and the whaling station lie in the area where the bulk of the peninsula is at its lowest. The rocky outcrop on the right side of the photo is the northern tip of Possession Point, and between it and the scrubby headland over which I took this shot, lies Ataturk Entrance, the passage through which ships pass from King George Sound into the Port of Albany (it is wider than it looks from here...but not much..it is a tight squeeze for the 50,000 tonne ships which make the passage through!)
It would be remiss of me to go further without some comment about the naming of this critical Albany port waterway. Why on earth does it bear the name of the Turkish commander who led his troops to victory over the ANZACS at Gallipoli? At first blush this would seem to be at least odd, if not downright unpatriotic. Not so. There is a direct link between Albany and Anzac Cove.
Seeing we are now delving into some of Albany's history, let's begin at the beginning. Albany was founded in December 1826 when a group of military personnel arrived here on the brig 'Amity' from the colony of NSW. Their purpose? To build and maintain a military outpost in the west of the country to forestall any possible French ambitions in the region.
In 1831 control of the outpost was handed to Governor James Stirling of the newly established Swan River Colony. During the late 19th Century, the harbour of Albany remained the only reliable deep water port in the country as a result of which, apart from serving the early goldfields, it was the first port of call for most vessels arriving in the antipodes from distant Europe. All this changed in 1897 when a channel was blasted to clear the entrance of the Swan River and the port of Fremantle was born.
Now, whilst shipping continued to play a role in the town's commercial life, agriculture, timber felling and whaling became more significant. As we know the whaling industry was closed in 1978. Tourism, fishing, agriculture and wine production are now mainstays of the Albany districts commercial scene,
whilst shipping retains an important place with the export of grain and woodchips from bulk handling facilities at the port of Albany (photo lifted from the Internet!)
Returning to the 'Ataturk' connection. In October 1914 a huge convoy of ships gathered in Albany Harbour. The purpose....to carry Australian and New Zealand troops to the shores of Gallipoli and that ill fated campaign so wretchedly mismanaged by the British commanders of the time. Albany was chosen as the assembly point, partly because of the ready availability of coal and water for the ships' boilers and also because, probably apart from Port Lincoln, it was the only harbour of sufficient size to handle this muster. Sydney-siders will probably dispute this, but despite its fame, the Sydney harbour is not a patch on Albany or Lincoln when it comes to the real nitty gritty....big ships and lots of them, all at anchor at the same time in sheltered waters.
On 1 November 1914 the first convoy of 38 ships carrying 30,000 troops and 7,500 horses left for Turkey. As a quick aside, I was fascinated to discover that of the 7 warships which sailed as convoy escort, one was the Japanese battle cruiser 'Ibuki'.....we were then on the same side. A second smaller convoy followed in late December.
In memory of this direct connection between Albany and Gallipoli (and I suspect, in no small way as a direct tribute to the respect the Anzac and Turkish troops had for each other irrespective the carnage in which they were involved), coupled with the Turkish retention of the name 'Anzac Cove' at the Gallipoli beach head, the entrance to the port of Albany now bears the name of Mestafa Kemal Ataturk, the Turkish commander at Gallipoli. Mestafa Kemal, apart from being a brilliant battle field commander was also a man of great compassion. It was he who said of the Anzac and British dead,
"Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives...You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side now here in this country of ours....You, the mothers who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well."
Mestafa Kemal late went on to become the founder of modern Turkey. Such was his ability and charisma that the secular Ataturk is still widely respected in the Muslim world.
Enough of history for the moment. What is to be seen in Albany today? We begin at the top of York Street, Albany's main street (historically if not commercially any more), where three main roads the Albany Highway, Middleton Road and Lockyer Avenue converge.
Here we find the monument to one Sir Anthony Horden, an early NSW settler and businessman whose vision and financial wherewithal saw the development of the vital rail link which first directly connected the port of Albany to Perth.
Turning 180 degrees at this point, we can look straight down York street to the waters of Princess Royal Harbour.
Unsurprisingly, York Street houses the impressive bulk of the Albany Town Hall Mount Melville in the background).
Looking east from this intersection down Grey Street, it is easy to see the proximity of Mount Clarence to the old town main street.
A little further down York Street is the Uniting Church building, circa 1891,
and across the road, at the next intersection we find a War Remembrance memorial (there are several in Albany) behind which peeks the top of the bell tower of the impressive Anglican church.
Apart from the inherent charm of this old building,
it is set in the most delightful garden surrounds of which this photo shows but a snippet.
Looking at the Anglican church prompts me to take another historical detour at this point. And again it relates to WW1. Padre Arthur White sailed with the first Anzac convoy and served for a number of years as the chaplain to the 44th Battalion AIF. Repatriated to Australia in 1918 as a result of gassing on the western front, White celebrated a Requiem Mass for the battle dead at St Johns, Albany, the very church I had been looking at. At this service he is reputed to have said, "Albany was the last sight of land our troops saw of Australia. Perhaps we should commemorate them this way every Anzac Day".
Nothing more happened until 1929 when White returned to the town as the Rector of Albany. On 25 April 1930, he celebrated a dawn Eucharist at 0600 hours and then joined other parishioners on the top of Mount Clarence to watch a boatman drop a wreath onto King George Sound. Believe it or not, this was the birth of the universal 'Dawn Service'! And to complete the story....why dawn? This was the favoured time of an infantry attack when it was hoped the enemy eyes would not be well served by the half light. Consequently, troops in defensive positions were always aroused well before dawn in order that, as they stood to their weapons, they had acquired a 'half light vision' the equal of their attackers. Fascinating stuff!
Beyond the Anglican Church my wandering took me along the western side of Stirling Terrace. Here I discovered the old Albany Gaol building in front of which is the Albany's historical society's granite tribute to the three mariners whose activities greatly influenced the founding of Albany, Lieut's M Flinders and P P King and Captain G Vancouver.
At the far end of the gaol compound, with its wonderfully old fashioned security top of broken bottle shards, the replica of the brig Amity comes into view. As I mentioned previously, this is the ship which brought what amounted to the first British settlers to Albany.
And here I must make an admission. With everything we have done since arriving in Albany I have run out of 'tourist puff'. Amity, Anzac Peace park and the old Mount Adelaide forts complex will just have to wait until we return in the latter part of March.
Returning east along Stirling Terrace I passed the Albany Police complex, where the modern police building has been cleverly wrapped around the original station building.
Next door the Courts buildings are again the 'old and the new' side by side.
From about this point the view looking east along Stirling Terrace across the York Street intersection includes the rather incongruous Tudor styled building which now serves to house the Albany Citizens' Advice Bureau, a group of original commercial buildings and a few houses dotted across the lower western slopes of Mount Clarence.
Just beyond this spot stands one of Albany's first pubs, The London. This has obviously fallen on hard commercial times and is currently for sale.
In the final bit of this tour of the old Albany CBD we look down at Princess Royal Harbour from the intersection of York Street and Stirling Terrace where the green lawn of the Anzac Peace Park abuts the shore and one part of the sloping roof of the extraordinary Albany Entertainment centre can be seen rising over the lower York Street buildings.
Surprisingly for me, York Street did not absolutely abound with old buildings. It is pretty clear that many have been demolished to make way for more modern commercial structures. Actually, the vast majority of Albany's commercial activity is conducted in several large shopping centres and industrial hubs which are quite disassociated from the old town centre of York Street.
We have come to favour the Dog Rock shopping complex which lies just beyond the four way intersection at the upper end of York Street. Dog Rock? Here's the answer!
A large lump of local granite which so closely resembles the upturned snout of a large dog it is hard to believe it is an entirely natural phenomenon. Mind you, the human intervention of the painted collar does help! What a hoot...
Well, I've had it. Enough for one blog. Yet to come (goodness knows quite just when...this has taken seven hours in all...tomorrow I'm going fishing) the Albany markets, the port area, Oyster Bay, Emu Point and the Kalgan River cruise, the whaling station (external visit only...I have no desire to watch whales being killed on film) and the grandeur which is the southern end of Flinders Peninsula. I told you we have been busy here in Albany!
