A LOOK AROUND BREMER BAY (4 - 23 FEBRUARY 2015)

Well, now that we had settled into our new digs, it was time to see what Bremer Bay has to offer the inquisitive traveller. This is not a large town. It is nestled on the Wellstead Estuary, a fluctuating (and at the moment land locked) body of water which is at the business end of the Bremer River.  

Excluding the waves of tourists, which break over Bremer Bay in their thousands during the long summer holidays (and just about every other extended break), the resident population is in the order of 300 or so. In the course of our three week stay here we met quite a few of them and were greeted with a genuine warmth and hospitality which was a real feature of our visit.

There are a number of very good reasons for the popularity of this area as a holiday destination. Bremer Bay is rightly renowned for the variety and beauty of its nearby beaches, it is a fishing paradise both on and off shore, several areas offer very good waves for those who surf and the local sporting complex welcomes casual bowlers and golfers. Many also come to Bremer Bay to 'whale watch'. At this time of the year the two large boats catering to this need take those who are prepared to shell out the $350 day trip fee out to the Bremer Canyon where killer whales are on the prowl.  Between July and October each year Southern Rights come to the area to give birth to their calves.  I'll have more to say about the extraordinary Bremer Canyon later.

The town itself lies on the Western Australian south coast, about 180 kms east of Albany and some 515 kms south-east of Perth. The name Bremer Bay has an interesting history. John Septimus Roe, the WA explorer about whom we have spoken before, originally named only the bay itself after Sir James Bremer, the (then) captain of the British warship HMS Tamar. Bremer had a close connection with colonial Australia in that it was he who was dispatched to Melville Island in 1824 to claim the northern section of the continent for Mother England.

Bremer Bay was initially named 'Wellstead' after John Wellstead who settled in the area in 1850 (more of the Wellsteads later), but in 1951 the good burghers of the then tiny township petitioned the Government to change this to Bremer Bay.  Obviously they were successful, but not quickly....the name change was eventually formally gazetted in 1962!  Nothing moves rapidly in WA except rising Government fees and charges (WA is also known to stand for 'wait awhile', in this case with very good reason).

Apart from tourism, which is now critical to the town's survival (it's a pity the relevant authorities did not see fit to have a digital TV broadcast system established when analogue was removed), Bremer Bay is a local farming hub and supports a small but thriving commercial fishing industry where the few vessels of the fleet harbour safely in the delightfully picturesque Fishery Beach marina, a spot which now holds deep affection for your scribe in another role......more of this later, too.

Western blue pilchards are the primary target for those who venture seawards from the marina. 

These and other species are processed at the local Bremer Fish Processors factory in the commercial area of the town. I visited these premises quite early on in our visit, lured inexorably through the doors by a large sign advertising 'Yummy Prawns' with a sub title noting that they were sourced from South Australia. Spencer Gulf prawns no less....what a find! 



My excited salivation was sadly short-lived, cruelly, coldly and callously curtailed when I reported back breathlessly to the keeper of the purse....$30 a kilo for 'mediums' was beyond our budget. Ah, well, domestic harmony has to be worth more than the fleeting delights of a munched crustacean, but I did twitch each time I drove past....and these were frequent....the factory stood on the road between our camp and my fishing grounds.   

An inescapable feature of Bremer Bay is the single wind turbine which towers 42 metres above the ridge immediately behind our caravan park, and which can be seen from just about everywhere in the town and beyond. This might give a clue to the weather here, and it is correct. WA....'windy always', but in fairness, one of the other advantages of Bremer Bay beaches is that it is rare that a sheltered cove cannot be found in any weather conditions.  I was staggered to find that there is absolutely no security fence surrounding this massive piece of infrastructure,

nor anything to impede those who may seek to cause mischief by breaking into the base of the tower.

This wind turbine is part of the wind-diesel hybrid system which provides electrical power to the town. The turbine itself contributes 40% of this requirement, and as I have mentioned previously, dominates most landscapes, including our caravan site. It did prove to be a handy addition to my van flag in determining wind direction at any time!









A lookout tower just below the wind turbine provides marvellous views over Bremer Bay and its surrounds.

Panning to the left from the view of the town presented at the beginning of this missive, the commercial area comes into view. The road through the farm lands into the town can be seen here at the right of the shot.

This lookout also provides a good view of one of the many huge sandhills, the blindingly white tops of which rear up out of the surrounding scrub. 










From here we can also see the landlocked end of the Wellstead Estuary and the adjoining sands of Main Beach.










Whilst on the subject of the estuary, I was particularly dismayed to find that notices posted at many points along the banks cautioned against contact with the water. So much for my plans to spend many hours plying the estuary on my much travelled kayak, something I had been really looking forward to. 




Interestingly, the ban on water sports prompted by the algal blooms in the estuary waters, did not extend to fishing, notwithstanding the symbol on this sign. At least I was able to indulge in one challenge of the Wellstead Estuary....hooking black bream. More of that later.






For now, let's complete a quick, limited tour of the Bremer Bay township. From a housing perspective this is indeed a town in parts, where the old












and the new often stand side by side in a town where the bustle of new development is obvious. 





Accommodation here ranges from the very up-market to the ramshackle.....I'll not bore you with more than the two examples provided.

Many new homes are under construction, some of which were obviously 'works in progress' where, very much like areas such as Yorke Peninsula in SA, the first thing to go up on the block is a large shed which acts as a base for those engaged in weekend construction of the more permanent dwelling planned for the site.



Sadly, the residents of, and visitors to, Bremer Bay are not well served when it comes to shopping for foodstuffs. The General Store carries a limited range of goods, all with price tags I could not believe when I first saw them, such as the example of the mullet bait I provided earlier.





Fresh fruit and vegetables were in very poor supply and, in many instances, of dubious quality. On one occasion our enquiry about the empty bread shelves (on a Monday) was met with the response that, "this comes in on Thursdays".  Surely a twice weekly delivery of a fresh loaf or two is not asking too much. And with mark-ups of what we estimated to be at least 20% above what we would expect to pay in a normal supermarket, we quite understood why most permanent residents of Bremer Bay consider a fortnightly return trip to Albany for a good 'stock-up' is both worthwhile and cost effective, despite the 360 kms involved.




Just beyond the General Store is the rambling building of the Bremer Bay community centre. This also incorporates the local pharmacy, which, on the advice of The Matron, is the complete antitheses of the General Store....well stocked and reasonably priced.




At this point I invite you to note the 'tea cup' at the edge of the footpath.  These are a feature of Bremer Bay. They pop up everywhere and are a wonderfully inventive way of recycling old tyres. We never quite got to the bottom of the origins of this initiative, but did discover that the Bremer Bay locals plant them out with various flowers at different times of the year to observe annual events and commemorative dates. For example, whilst we were there, the local newspaper was encouraging the planting of any yellow flowers to support the upcoming Cancer Awareness week.....outstanding stuff....creative, simple and decorative and a great way in which to recycle old tyres.

We did venture into the Community Centre on arrival. Here the tourist information assistance we received from the most welcoming staff was exemplary.  





Immediately beyond this complex are the green lawns and buildings of the local school

and in a nearby street, the original Emergency Services shed which now houses the Pelican Op Shop. On Wednesdays and Saturdays this place bustles with activity. The range of donated goods on offer is extraordinary and there are some serious bargains to be found. Everything from used clothing to fishing gear, household goods and books are on offer. All activity is managed by volunteer staff and the proceeds are used for the betterment of Bremer Bay generally.  

I was more than happy to donate to the cause of this wonderful initiative during our visit. The Treasurer had approved my purchase of a new double burner fish smoker on the condition the collapsible unit which had served me so well in Port Denison was ditched. Done. Another addition to the stock at the Pelican Op Shop. I hope its new owner has equal success in its use as I. Again, more on the new acquisition later! 



Separated from the main 'CBD' by the Bremer Bay entrance road, is the designated commercial area.  Apart from the fish processing factory, here we found the local hardware store and a real surprise. 

In addition to the almost obligatory tea cups at the entrance










it was the sign on the car park fence which really attracted our attention on our first visit to this extremely well stocked emporium. I mean to say, how often does one do one's meat shopping at a hardware store? "I'll have a can of oil, two metres of security chain, a fish smoker, and, yes of course, two packs of sausages and one of mince, thank you."  Extraordinary!






Between the nearby dive and surf shop













and the Bremer Bay Roadhouse, which incorporates Monaghan's Cafe, from which freshly baked (daily) white rolls, good quality pastries, fast foods and another limited range of groceries and veggies could be had, 







stands a stark reminder of what Bremer Bay used to be.

We could only  guess at how many years this original 'petrol station' had been the hub of all things mechanical in this tiny seaside town.

Regular readers may have noted that this township tour has been devoid of any mention of pubs and clubs. Be assured this does not mean they remained unvisited! The sports club in particular played a prominent role in our Bremer Bay social life, which was extensive and, at times, hectic (one reason for the delay in these blogs)

More of this, the picturesque and productive local beaches, fishing and other odds and sods in coming episodes.

WE SETTLE IN TO THE BREMER BAY CARAVAN PARK (AND RUN OUT OF ELECTRONIC PUFF) (4 - 5 FEBRUARY 2015)

Let me begin this return to the 'blogoshpere' with an explanation as to the recent absence of text from your searching eyes.....we ran out of electronic juice!  The modem gizmo (Marshie techno-speak) which allows us to connect our computer to the outside electronic world has a limit which uploads again on the 20th day of each month.  With my flurry of last minute blogging in Albany, I had strained this somewhat very early in the cycle.

This problem was compounded once we reached Bremer Bay.  As we set up camp on our very large and grassy site, Liz commented that there were very few TV aerials raised on surrounding vans and a veritable forest of satellite dishes. 

This is never a good sign. We soon found out that Bremer Bay does not have any normal TV reception. This was not a real problem for us except for two things....firstly the cricket World Cup was about to begin, and secondly, so was the series 'Gallipoli', something for which your scribe has been hanging out to watch.

The nearby camp kitchen, just across the roadway from our site,  

is particularly well equipped and includes a very large TV screen and sat dish connection, so the cricket problem was solved, 

but it was a bit of a push to contemplate foisting Gallipoli on the dining crowds of campers who have no other cooking options. To my great relief, I discovered that I could watch the show on our computer, but of course this draws heavily on the wherewithall of our connecting gadget with the result that we 'went off the air' shortly after our arrival here.

God bless her, my far less technically challenged spouse and travelling companion has now upped our electronic ante with Telstra, and yours truly is on a mad catch-up. 

So, with explanations made, let's go back a step to our arrival in town. 




Our approach took us past the town sign, the Bremer Resort Hotel (the use of the word 'resort' is a bit of a stretch....a matter about which one guest complained bitterly on Tripadviser....more of the pub later), 

the newly completed Emergency Services shed

and on down the hill where a newly completed but still vacant development area is awaiting a hoped for influx of new residents to the town.

As we drove past the expansive fish cleaning station we caught our first glimpse of the shallow waters of the Wellstead Estuary, a body of water which was to feature in our later Bremer Bay adventures.

Not far to go now. Three hundred metres further on and the park sign came into view

and we were soon making our arrival known to the very obliging staff in park office.  

And what an office this is, for the fisherman in particular. One corner of the office houses a well stocked and, as I later discovered when making comparisons at the Bremer Bay General Store, very competitively priced range of fishing gear.

In addition to these essentials of life, there are many other goodies on sale here in the camp office. And, unlike many other parks, the prices charged are more than reasonable. As Mar, one of the wonderfully helpful staff explained, the goods here are sold as a service to park residents, not specifically to make a profit. Let me give you an example. I bought a pack of frozen mullet for bait here for $6.00.....at the General Store the same item carried a price tag of $9.60!

With gate entry key tag in hand, we made our way along the entrance road,

past the two very well presented (and well used) park tennis courts,

a large and modern ablution block,

and one of the many rows of semi-permanent sites dotted throughout this park

to our allotted patch just beyond. As this photo of our site shows, the camp kitchen building is just across the roadway.  Apart from the TV, we did make much use of this facility on several very social occasions, but more of this later.








I was a little perturbed on arrival to find that our site did not enjoy as much shade as many of the others, but as things eventuated, the weather was such that this did not present a problem. What we did have, however, was plenty of 'elbow room' on lush grass, as this rear shot of our van shows.








Although we decided to extend our stay very soon after arrival, we agreed that the full annex was not necessary.  Our tried and tested shade cloth and the ever reliable C-Gear flooring was all that was required to keep us comfortable.

When we first arrived here at the Bremer Bay Caravan park (as opposed to the Bremer Bay Beaches Caravan park....which oddly enough is nowhere near Bremer Main Beach) things in our row were pretty quite, but this soon changed as those who come here 'for the after school holidays' season began to pour in.

But has Bremer Bay lived up to expectations, the question I posed in my last?  Indeed it has, well for me in particular, as will become clear later. Before we get onto that, a quick final tour of our park.





As I mentioned before, this is a large one. Apart from the rows of caravan sites (all on good grass and most under shade of some sort)










semi-permanent vans and cabins abound. There are dozens of them, and, as we discovered during our stay, they are well used. Bremer Bay is a favourite spot for holidaying 'Albanians' and for those on the land in the surrounding districts.







One thing we did note was that the vast majority of these abodes come complete with an outdoor stove or fire pit and large firewood storage bins. We can understand why.....Bremer Bay is much cooler than Perth!








The groups of caravan sites are spread from one end of the park to the other, and in addition to the main camp kitchen and ablution block near which we were very conveniently located, there are other smaller facilities dotted throughout.






And, as we discovered on our first evening here, the park caters for other visitors. The green grasses of the park and its immediate surrounds are irresistible to the local roos, some of which have managed to make it through small holes in the boundary fence. This is a very tame mob. They munch away seemingly oblivious to close encounters with park residents, much to the delight of foreign visitors in particular, the reactions of whom are a real source of friendly amusement to us Aussies.


In summary, the Bremer Bay Caravan Park in one in which we have been very comfortable. It is well presented, well run and comes high on our list of recommended places in which to spend some quality time (particularly if you fish...more of that later!)

FAREWELL ALBANY (SERIOUSLY THIS TIME!) - OUR FAREWELL CONCERTS AND THE TRIP TO BREMER BAY (31 JANUARY - 3 FEBRUARY 2015)

It was almost time to go. The annex had been pulled down and most of the mass of gear which seems to find its way into every nook and cranny of our outside living area had been rediscovered, sorted and stowed (occasionally after having to have a good think about where it actually belonged....it had been a while).

We had arranged to leave our site on Monday morning, and drop the van off at Autospark for the day before returning that evening into a drive-thu site prior to our departure for Bremer Bay.  What fun....spending an entire day trying to keep Max in some sort of order and good humour in his cage in the cruiser whilst we await the 'come and get it' phone call. I've heard about taking fractious youngsters for a 'go to sleep' ride, but a cat??? 

We survived, particularly after his visit to the vet, where the resident moggie insisted on checking out the newcomer. After this and the subsequent treatment he received, Max was ready to crash out no matter where he was.

But before all this, we did allow ourselves one farewell treat before moving on. 'The Searchers', a Merseybeat band of the same era as the Beatles, Billy J Cramer, Jerry and Pacemakers et al, were in town on 31 January for a concert at the Entertainment Centre. And two of the original members were still on tour. We had to go.  

I think I bought some of the first tickets sold, and at $70 a pop, we had fantastic seats in what is a very good auditorium and concert hall, and a wonderful evening's entertainment. I even knew all the words to most of their songs....'Needles and Pins', 'Love Potion No 9', 'When You Walk in the Room'.....etc, etc.

Immediately after the show the band members all sat together and signed the CD's presented to them....what a good trick...another money spinner. For those of a similar vintage to your scribe, the fellow with the white hair is John McNally and beyond him is Frank Allen, the two originals (well, almost...Allen joined the band in 1964). Those at the near end are the 'newcomers', and a very competent duo they are, on the drums and rhythm guitar.

How their appearance has changed since 1965 (that's McNally at the front and Allen immediately behind him) but they can still perform! This is the second time they have played Albany and on both occasions the shows have been a sell out.  It was interesting to note just how much Liz lowered the average age of the audience!!





And the second concert?????  A much more local affair.  Just as we were hitching to leave

The Rose Gardens for the last time, the flock of park magpies surrounded our doorway and carolled away.....it was breakfast time. Why forage when you can con a camper into parting with some fresh brown bread?

These are really tame birds which roam the park as a family of eight.  They actually disappeared during the Xmas mayhem, but to my particular delight, returned when things settled (just like the kookaburras).

All but two of the younger fledglings happily take food directly from an outstretched hand. The two which are yet to gain that degree of confidence stand back and squwark their heads off until one of the older birds stuffs their open beaks shut with a tasty morsel or two. Their insistent, harsh hunger calls were in distinct contrast to the melodic song of the older birds and I was always glad when they were silenced.






And so it was that the birds of Emu Point farewelled the Mobile Marshies, just as they had welcomed us to the park three months before. It had been a good stay, but, as we pulled out of Albany for the last time, that old sense of anticipation and a keen desire to see what lay over the next hill returned with a rush. Bremer Bay awaits.






Today's was to be a relatively short run.....just over 180 kms.  Very sensible. The South Coast Highway took us eastwards through the undulating land east of Albany








where glimpses of the seasonally dry and brown cropping and grazing paddocks of this area occasionally came into view through the roadside scrub.












We passed through the tiny settlement of Wellstead, and, about 110 kms into our trip came to Boxwood Hill,












where we left the main highway and turned south-east towards the coast and our destination, some 70 kms distant.







Our first glimpse....the single wind turbine which delivers power to the small township of Bremer Bay. As we discovered a short time later, this huge windmill actually sits atop the hill immediately behind our chosen caravan park.  The eerie, low pitched 'swhoosh' of its revolutions is a common sound on our site when the wind is in the right direction.








We had arrived, almost before we knew it. What a pleasant trip this had been....fine weather, light winds, relatively good roads and little traffic. Just the shot.





Now to settle into our new home for the next few weeks or so. Would Bremer Bay live up to all we had come to expect of it from many travellers' tales and the tourist blurb?