FAST FORWARD OVER OLD GROUND - SARINA TO KURRIMINE BEACH - WITH A FEW STOPS ALONG THE WAY AND AN UNEXPECTED WELCOME (25 JUNE - 7 JULY 2019)

Fast forward indeed, across ground we have previously covered. The Bruce Highway from Sarina to Kurrimine Beach is so familiar that to include any of that in this missive would be repetition on repetition... it's just not happening!

Although we have previously spent some time in Airlie Beach (albeit a long time ago....August 2012 on a day trip out of nearby Conway Beach) we decided that on this journey we would spend a few days here. 

We had a few good reasons to do so, not least of which was the fact that we needed to break the almost 400 kms run between Sarina and Townsville (a now standard and obligatory stop-over point to visit the last Dan Murphy's before Kurrimine Beach!). We had heard good reports about a pet friendly park near the local airport, and, finally, an old surf club mate of your scribe's lives nearby. It was time to catch up (the fact he owns a large off-shore fishing boat had nothing to do with it!).





With Mackay and Proserpine behind us in our 190 kms trip of today, within two and a half hours we found ourselves making our way in through the large Airlie  Beach 'sattelite suburb' of Cannonvale,










through its extensive commercial and light industrial areas


















and finally into Airlie Beach proper.








Aside from all else which can be found here, there is no shortage of boats of every size and design imaginable. The somewhat hilly approach to the main town CBD

provided us with good views of the first of several marinas which provide shelter for these craft.












Apartment buildings, both private and holiday rental, crowd the steep slopes above the quite small town centre (all the big stuff is out in Cannonvale)










and as we made our way through the central district, the second harbour came into view,












where yet another holiday resort building provided those in residence with excellent views of more yacht masts rising above their finger berths. What a different scene this was in late March 2017 when Cyclone Debbie tossed these craft about like small boats in a petulant child's bath.






Our chosen park lay about half way between central Airlie Beach and the nearby Shute Harbour some ten or so kms further on. The now renamed Tropical Eco Resort was also hammered by destructive Debbie a couple of years ago, 






 
but as we made our way to our site along the quite narrow entrance roadway, it was clear that nature and the new park owners had been hard at it since....the park looked lush with tropical trees and gardens and there was not a frayed frond to be seen.









For some reason I did not take my usual raft of park photos, so I'll have to make do with what we have, including this of our site row,













and this, as we were hitched and about to leave.













The camp kitchen was to be found at the end of our row

and as this shot from the rear of our van, looking across at some of the new park cabins shows, much of the area between sites was under good grass. 












The stems of many of the fan palms glowed golden in the late afternoon sun, but the real feature of this park were the birds.........














.......bush stone curlews, myriads of them.















These long-legged birds with their baleful eyes and wailing night cries could be found throughout the park, peering from behind trees,












skulking in the park garden beds,

















or wandering about in the open spaces, in this case under the watchful eye of The Black Panther.









We were more than familiar with these ornithological oddities (they abound at Kurrimine Beach) but we had never before encountered them in a situation like this. Normally quite shy and secretive, with a defence mechanism which drives them to stand stock still when approached, this lot were just to opposite, particularly with the approach of the afternoon happy hour.

As folk gathered far and wide under their awnings for the obligatory late afternoon tipple, one could be forgiven for thinking that these curlews had somehow interbred with seagulls. They would come running on their stilt like legs towards each emerging van occupant in the obvious hope of being fed a tidbit or two (which was often the case). 


We had never seen anything like it. It just goes to show what the quest for food and local conditioning will do. It seems Pavlov was right!

The resident park Kookaburras, normally adept scavengers themselves, distanced themselves completely from all this undignified behaviour, watching on in aloof and superior silence 













until it all just became laughable!











Aside from park bird-watching, we did wander hither and yon during our stay, to find that the central CBD and foreshore area was still bustling with back-packer types and was just as 'touristy' as it had been on our last visit. 

A quick run out to Shute Harbour showed that much of the previous infrastructure destroyed by Debbie has not been replaced. In fact the vast majority of the Whitsunday Islands boat transfers and day trips now leave from the Airlie Beach town marina. We rather suspect that the Shute Harbour facilities are now going to be confined to the commercial operations involving barges supplying the needs of the various island resorts. 

For your scribe, a real highlight of our short stay was a very pleasant couple of hours spent at the nearby Jubilee Pocket Tavern catching up with an old Glenelg Surf Club mate who has lived in this area now for many years. Unfortunately our respective schedules precluded a fishing trip, but it has been mutually agreed that this will be on our joint future agendas. 

A couple of days before we left, we were visited by our old (not a friend) Murphy. A lack of hot water led us to believe that something had gone awry with the electrical feed to the element, but as to what.......???!

Now I am prepared to fix anything relating to the van plumbing (and have on several occasions) and have had a successful crack at a couple of awning repairs, but electrical power is another matter altogether, be it 12V or 240V.....240V in particular. Apart from the legalities involved, that stuff can kill you.

This was a job for an expert.






To my great surprise the local caravan repair service was able to squeeze us in on the morning of our departure, provided we could be there by 0800 hours. Needless to say we were!








A deal of prodding and poking with volt metres and the like, both inside and outside the van, led to the eventual discovery that the 240 volt plug (oddly located in one of Liz's bedroom cupboards) to which the the lead to the hot water element is connected, had gone 'US'.

No amount of rummaging about by the most affable and obliging repair fellow, in both the spare parts store or his workshop, could produce the required plug, so a permanent repair was impossible. But at least we did nut out a manageable by-pass system and we pushed on knowing that one of the park owners at Kurrimine Beach is a qualified 'sparky' and should be able to provide a permanent solution (he did!).

So with Liz now having to avoid tripping over a temporary lead running from her bedside table plug to the heater element plug in her cupboard, we pushed on to Townsville, where we set up for the night in one of the large drive-thu sites we had previously used at the Magnetic Gateway park.



As we do always on this run north, a Saturday overnight stay here puts us on the doorstep of Dan Murphy's at Garbutt (Townsville suburb) at 0900 hours on Sunday, when we know that the large car park will be blessedly empty and we can stock the van with all manner of liquid refreshment without having to fight our way in and out of either the store or the car park.

Thus it was, and once the van was groaning in protest with the additional weight of the cellar resupply, we were off to Forrest Beach to catch up with two groups of friends.

This, of course, took us through Ingham where we were well and truly back into cane country and crossed what we consider to be the southern boundary of Far North Queensland.





There is continuing debate about what actually constitutes the region of FNQ, and interestingly, in recent times the Government has stepped in to have all the tourist entities alter the name of this part of the State to 'Tropical North Queensland'. 

And the reason.......they were afraid that the use of the word 'Far' in the title would deter overseas visitors on limited time schedules! I suppose I would have to concede that having met folk who have flown in from Europe and elsewhere with an avowed plan to buy a vehicle and 'see Australia', and when asked about their time frame respond "two weeks", there may be some basis for the concern.

Irrespective of the virtues of any arguments, Ingham marks the beginning of FNQ for us, a region of never ending cane fields and banana plantations, steep mountain ranges covered with dense rain forest, cane train railways, steam and smoke belching sugar mills, and warm rain.




As happened last time at Forrest Beach, our allocated site was quite tight, and we did entertain all and sundry manoeuvring on to it. To my great relief we did so with our usual aplomb and we were perfectly happy to accept the compliments of several by-standers who were quite unashamedly watching proceedings.


Both couples we had come to visit were well ensconced by the time we arrived. The arrangement to rendezvous here in the case of one of them went back to a lunch I had attended in Adelaide in December 2018, the annual Surf Lifesaving SA life members' luncheon. Obviously given our current nomadic lifestyle, I rarely get to take a place at the table at this event.

To my delight I found myself sitting next to a very old friend and colleague, a chap who had been one of the original Lifesaving Helicopter Rescue crew members I recruited and trained in late 1979. George, an electronics whizz, went on to become the service communications specialist. He had more than graciously saved my non-technical bacon on numerous occasions at various meetings and conferences when problems with our comz was the topic (and as the boss it was assumed I knew what I was talking about....which I never did!).

I knew that he and his wife travelled extensively, but was quite taken aback when he mentioned that their plans for the coming year included a lengthy stint at Forrest Beach. 

"I don't suppose you know where that it, Pete", was his accompanying comment. "Know it....mate, we've stayed there....it is on our list for our trip north to Kurrimine Beach once we can get away".

Needless to say, our seven days at Forrest Beach included several lengthy sessions at the bar of the pub which is part and parcel of the park. Oddly enough our respective spouses soon decided that we had become a pair of boring old farts and went off into their own little huddle!

This week went by in a flash before we were back on the road through Ingham once again, now with our sights set on Cardwell, Tully and just beyond. 













All went without incident on this last leg, where the highway took us past sections of the very aptly named 'Misty Mountains', 








until we rounded the bend from which we can always see the high stacks of the Tully Mill spewing smoke and steam high into the air over the town which nestles at the base of the intimidating Mount Tyson.

As we did so we could not believe our eyes. In all the now seven years we have been making this pilgrimage, this was the first time we had been greeted by this sight.....the mill was shut.





We soon discovered that an unusual wet spell throughout the surrounding cane district had rendered the cane cutting machinery impotent....they were just bogging down in the mud. With no cane to process, operations came to a standstill, much to the frustration of all involved in the industry. Mind you, things were back to normal within a week of our arrival.

We were still musing over this most unexpected sight as we turned off the Bruce Highway onto this sort leg of the 'Cane Cutters Way' and the last 10 kms of our journey north. 














Within less than ten minutes the more than familiar sign over the Kurrimine Beach Holiday Park welcomed us back for the winter. 









After effusive greetings from the park owners and staff (a couple arriving at the same time were quite non-plussed) and a quick chat, I crept down the busy park roadway to the site always reserved at this time of the year for the Mobile Marshies......site 12.








And it was then that we knew we had well and truly arrived on familiar turf! 










Needless to say heads were poking out surreptitiously from all the surrounding van annexes as I got out to set up our approach manoeuvres, no doubt waiting for the eruption! I erupted alright.....with gales of laughter. "Gordon, you idiot!" 







We were home indeed and within a day or so completely settled into the 'naughty corner' for the next three months, with our close Victorian friends Rhonda and John and 'Bob The Dog' nearby.




Most of the Kurrimine Beach 'boomerangs' were already in residence. The site 12 'beer garden' sign went out and the happy hour bell was retrieved from its travelling nook and made handy. The festivities were about to begin!

A MASSIVE FACILITY AND LOCAL BEACHES - SARINA - PART 3 (HAY POINT - DALRYMPLE BAY AND SURROUNDS) (20 - 24 JUNE 2019)

One hundred and eighteen million, three hundred and seventeen thousand, one hundred and thirty two (118,317,132) tonnes ....but who's counting? 

Those who manage the huge coal export port of Hay Point and Dalrymple Bay, that's who! This was the tonnage of coal which left Australia through this facility last year.

It probably seems somewhat trite to add that this combined port facility, which services eight mines in the Bowen Basin, is one of the largest coal export ports in the world. Interestingly, most of what leaves Australia through this port is not destined to be burnt in power stations....the Bowen Basin coal is metallurgical coal, a key resource in the steel-making process.

With its rail delivery network, shore stockpiles, transfer towers, surge bins, conveyor galleries, off-shore wharves and ship loaders, the operations of this massive port play a significant role in the economic and social fabric of Mackay and the surrounding districts and beyond.

I've included this Google Earth shot to show the location of Hay Point and Sarina Beach relative to Sarina itself,












and this, showing the two separate facilities, the on-shore stockpiles, the long conveyor galleries and the loading wharves, well out to sea in deep water, to try and provide some perspective. The small township of Hay Point, also known as Salonkia Beach, which is virtually a company town, lies just to the south on a long, sandy beach.


As we set out from Sarina to have a first hand look at this facility, we could not help but reflect on the fact that here on the east coast we could gaze on these huge coal ports whilst on the west coast, almost on the same latitude, similar views were available, but here it is iron ore pouring into the vast holds of the bulk carriers.......Australia's two major primary exports leaving the country on completely opposite sides of the continent.




Our 25 kms journey to Hay Point took us through the tiny cane town of Alligator Creek, where one of the hundreds of cane trains working this area, jolting and clanking its way along the spiderweb network of narrow railway lines to the Sarina mill 











brought us to a temporary halt.














Once the warning lights and bells ceased and the road was again clear, we turned right in front of the quaint Alligator Creek general store,

to continue past endless stands of tall cane in full flower, north-east towards the coast.

This short trip ended with a climb up a sharp incline to the car park



















outside the Port of Hay Point control centre, where this sign directed us to the viewing area overlooking the port.




















With its rooftop bristling with antennae, the control centre is a hive of activity. 







Here the staff manage all the shipping movements in and out of both loading facilities. But they also perform another critical function. Akin to air traffic controllers, those on duty here peer through electronic eyes to play a major role in ensuring that all these huge bulk carriers safely negotiate the only approach routes in and out of the port, one which takes them though significant portions of the challenging shipping lanes of the Great Barrier Reef.

The public viewing platform not only presented visitors like us with grand views over the entire port facility, 

but also housed a number of different information boards which tell the story of the development and operation of the port (you can just see the edge of one of these boards on the platform railing at the far right of this shot...more shortly).

The facility we were looking at today is one which has been significantly expanded over the past twenty years or so. 

The latest improvements, built by the huge international engineering company Bechtel, (theirs is another extraordinary story in itself and well worth a quick 'Google'), was a challenging commission. It entailed constructing a new berth at the terminal, offshore and onshore facilities, land reclamation, as well as building and fitting out new trestles, conveyors, and ship loaders. And again, the numbers are numbing. This project came in at a cost of $2.45 billion!

One of the most fascinating aspects of this project, which delivered the new facility without disrupting on-going loading operations, was that much of the infrastructure was built elsewhere and delivered by sea to the port. 






For example, this transfer tower and two surge bins, seen here ready for shipment to Australia, were just three of many components built in China.












Here is a photo of two of these transfer towers finally insitu at the port.














This huge shiploader, now installled on one of the loading wharves, was manufactured in South Korea, and was also transported by sea to Queensland.

I'll not bore you with more detail but will comment that for any interested, the full story of this expansion, which takes the concept of 'modularisation' to an entirely new level, is well worth the read (the 'Aurecon' website is one source).






Now back to the lookout, where, as I mentioned previously, information boards such as this told the story of the redevelopment,








and a very simple 'dot point' display (the on on the edge of the railing) showed how the system works.

For some reason which now completely escapes me, I failed to photograph the entire display, so I'll have to resort to a couple of piecemeal sections to give you the idea. This, for example, depicts the two stockpile areas and the loading wharves. The numbers on them are married to 













descriptive 'buttons' such as these

which provide a simple but clear explanation of the entire port operation.

As for the views, well, they speak for themselves, but with my limited equipment I have not been able to do full justice to the scene below us. Here we can see the coal stockpiles being sprayed with dust suppressing water. Three ships (as indicated) were being loaded at this offshore wharf. From their positions in the water you can see that the carrier on the right of shot is all but ready for departure whilst that on the left is yet to take on its load.

This photo also gives some idea of the number of ships which load from this port. Believe it or not, the eighteen seen lying in the roads (on the horizon of this photo) are but a half of the entire number we counted. Just as we had seen on the west coast, these huge carriers arrive, take up a designated mooring, and then swing on their anchors until a loading berth is available.

On any given day up to forty vessels can be coming, going, loading or at anchor in and near this port, as can be seen at any time on the Port Authority website.

And none of these are seagoing squibs by any means. 

By clicking on each dot a readout of the vessels' details can be gleaned. Most of the ships shown here on this particular day were a touch under 300 metres in length and had a carrying capacity in the order of 80,000 tonnes of coal. 

With a loading rate of about 4,000 tonnes per hour, these carriers are generally turned around in less than 24 hours....... once they come alongside that is (thanks to 'shipspotting' for this shot).

And this goes on day and night, seven days a week, 365 days of the year. Hopefully I've been able to share with you just how massive this enterprise is. 

The Queensland coal industry really does play a major role in the economy of not only that State, but of Australia as a whole. It is little wonder that the debate about its future, given the burgeoning concern about the effects of fossil fuel use in relation to global warming, continues to be so hotly prosecuted.

One of the major selling points encouraging folk to seek employment here at the Hay Point port is the lifestyle on offer, a lifestyle which is centred on the pleasures offered by living on what is considered in this part of the world to be a pristine beach.




This shot, courtesy of 'Mackay Region', shows the township at Hay Point and the stretch of sand which is Salonika Beach (the coal stockpile heaps can be seen above the end of the strip of sand).

This is one of several beaches of some renown in the Sarina area, beaches which are heavily promoted by the tourism authorities, with words like these:

"Salonika Beach is a tropical haven for visitors to Hay Point. The 2 kilometre stretch of sandy beach is ideal for swimming and relaxation. Gaze out toward Victor Island, only 1 kilometre offshore. The natural preservation of the area means wildlife experiences are easy to come by, with black cockatoos, sea eagles and bush turkeys often seen. Nearby wetlands provide unique bird-watching opportunities."

All this may be true enough, and indeed when it comes to Salonika Beach and the 'nearby wetlands', birds do abound and the scenes are tranquil and relaxing. 

South of Salonika Beach, three more sandy stretches somewhat closer to Sarina and more directly accessible to that  town, are the subject of similar promotion. 'Queensland places' is but one website which does just that with photos like this.

Well folks, prepare to buckle up for a personal opinion which I am sure would have steam issuing from the collective ears of all those involved with Queensland tourism!

Whilst I do not dispute the fact that all these beaches present quite long, sandy stretches along which to ramble, the course, yellow soft sand above the high water mark, and the often somewhat muddy looking, damp sand of a low tide, such as this here at Salonika Beach, are a far cry from the fine, white sands of most of the beaches of South Australia (and elsewhere).

I'll be the first to admit that those of us who live in SA are spoilt rotten when it comes to the quality of our beaches, and I accept that my highly muted endorsement of the beaches of much of Queensland is based on that experience, but there is more to it than just the quality of the sand.

When it comes to the proposition that these are ideal places for swimming, my criticism of that as a realistic selling point is unreserved.

These delightfully warm waters present an ideal habitat for several species of highly dangerous jellyfish, amongst the worst of which are the Irukandji, Box Jellyfish and the the Portuguese Man o' War (and there are several others.....somewhat less dangerous but more than capable of delivering a very painful sting). 

It is widely accepted that between October and May there is an increased presence of jellyfish, but even during what is known as the 'low season' (the cooler months of winter), stings have occurred.

Now just in case you may think that I am being unreasonably critical, this is the official advice from the Whitsunday Regional Council in relation to sting prevention:

• Wear protective clothing such as a full body lycra or neoprene suit. This is the number 1 way of preventing stings as suits protect up to 75% of the body and cover areas where stings more commonly occur. Not all suits offer equal protection - lycra or neoprene offer the greatest protection. Such suits are also excellent for sun protection and protection from coral cuts, etc.

• Wear protective clothing, even if wading, as most box jellyfish stings occur when wading.

• Enter the water slowly (i.e don’t run in) as Box Jellyfish will often swim away if given the time and opportunity to do so.

• Swim between the flags and follow Life Saver’s advice if swimming at patrolled beaches.

• Be aware of high risk conditions that indicate Irukandji such as sustained NE winds, flat or calm weather, sea lice felt in the water and/or salps/plankton present.

• Always carry vinegar when going boating or undertaking other marine activities.

And the good news is that these wretched things are no longer confined (as has always previously been thought) to the waters of Far North Queensland. Several swimmers off Fraser Island have been stung by Irukandji over the past few weeks.

Even the 'stinger nets' which are a feature of many popular beaches of FNQ, do not guarantee complete safety. Is it any wonder that we have a firm policy once in these areas.....we do not swim in anything which is not surrounded by tiles!

Whilst we will never enter the water at any of these beaches, we were more than interested to drive around them, but sadly I must announce that for some reason (as has happened once or twice previously), the photos we took have somehow vanished from our files, so I shall have to rely on what I could glean from the various websites to provide something of a pictorial presentation.

And balance demands that I concede here that the small but clearly expanding communities which have grown up in this area look charming, as does the entire area, demonstrated here in this shot from 'Oz Aerial' showing Grasstree Beach (bottom right), Campwin Beach (bottom left) and Sarina Beach, which joins Campwin and stretches to the headland.

Over a thousand folk call what are virtually twin towns home, where the range of local shopping, quality restaurants and cafes, and good tourist accommodation are what one would expect to find in such a community.

Both Salonika and Sarina Beaches host resort motels (this is one of the two at  Sarina...brought to you courtesy of 'trivago')

whilst Sarina Beach is also home to a fine looking and very active surf lifesaving club.

No discussion about the beaches near Sarina would be complete without a reference to Armstrong Beach, about a 15 minute drive east of the town.

As this shot from 'realestate' shows, this is another small beachside community nestled along a straight stretch of beach.

The caravan park here is owned by a relative of one of our Kurrimine Beach freinds, and we did take the time to toddle down and have a good look around with the view that we may stay here in the future.

But again, the quality of the beach held little appeal for either of us, and whilst the decidedly rustic charm of the caravan park was attractive enough, we decided that we would much rather stay in the delightful surrounds of the Sarina Palms when visiting this neck of the woods.

So, dear readers, that is our take on the beaches near Sarina, one which I am sure must come across as somewhat biased and a little sniffy and one with which those who promote regional tourism would be less than happy. I would prefer to view it as realistic!

Well, after this rather dark assessment of Sarina's much vaunted surrounds, let me conclude with a little touch of levity in the form of a sign I spotted on the back of one of the vans with which we shared the park in Sarina during our first visit.

In our experience to date, this should be something seen far more often. It seems that the only thing missing here is the exclamation mark.