COFFS HARBOUR (23 SEPTEMBER)

To my embarrassment and eternal shame I must begin this blog with an admission.....I forget to photograph the 'Big Banana' whilst in Coffs Harbour.  On the basis of the fact that this monument to local banana production has just celebrated its 47th birthday, making it one of the oldest of Australia's 'big things', I suspect there is no-one in this country over the age of ten who has not seen this edifice in print or in person at some stage of their life. I therefore take comfort in the thought that this is not a fatal omission!

 

 

Liz has something of a penchant for markets (an observation not a criticism) and Coffs does turn on one of some significance each Sunday at the harbour. And I have to say, as harbours and marina precincts go, Coffs presents one of variety and interest. This 'borrowed' shot provides an aerial of the town, the southern breakwater and the northern breakwater which connects to Muttonbird Island.  The surf beaches lie to the north (right of shot) of the marina area.

Before we take our brief cook's tour of Coffs, a potted history for those interested.  Its name is the result of a mistake!  In 1847, John Korff, an immigrant to Australia of German heritage, sought shelter from a storm in the harbour whilst en route to the Bellenger River where he was to take on a cargo of locally cut cedar in his coastal trading ketch.  The harbour was then originally named 'Korffs Harbour' after its 'discoverer'.  The area was officially surveyed in 1861 when the surveyor responsible accidentally named it 'Coffs Harbour', and the rest, as they say, is history. 

The modern Coffs has been credited by the CSIRO as having 'the most livable climate' in the country with moderate average summer highs and equally manageable winter lows.  One direct result of this has been a recent and rapid expansion in the local population, which is expected to reach over 80,000 by 2016 on current trends.  On the basis of our two sojourns in the nearby Sawtell, Liz and I are happy to attest to the attractions of the climate.

The modern Coffs' economy is based largely on the enormous local banana production, supplemented significantly by tourism and manufacturing.  A campus of the Southern Cross University attracts many students to the area.  In an interesting parallel to Adelaide, the Coffs CBD is currently the subject of real challenge from more outlying shopping precincts with all the associated retailer angst, local council posturing and very little actually being done as far as we could determine.

But back to the Sunday market and beyond.  The market itself was unremarkable it that it presented the usual mix of offerings ranging from local produce to junk jewellery.  Despite this, it does attract a crowd.  We were very glad we arrived just after 7.30 am from a parking perspective.

Before the required browse (and breakfast) we decided to take on Muttonbird Island before the predicted temperature climbed too high.  Smart move.  A serious trudge up and down.

In this shot, which I later took from the local lookout, Muttonbird can be seen as the lump on the end of the breakwater to the left.  The marina and yacht basin lies between the rock wall and the old jetty.  The harbour area generally is protected from the worst of the Pacific Ocean swells by the second, southern breakwater which can be seen arcing northwards in centre shot. 

Now I am prepared to concede that the hump of Muttonbird does not look too forbidding from this perspective, but it does present a challenge.  The very well constructed walking path does make things a little easier and the strategically placed seats en route across the island (for the purpose of taking in the views only...of course!) do help.  Needless to say, there is a group of local smarties who use the track as a jogging course.  It is amazing how those engaged in serious physical exercise can manage to look so disdainful of us mere mortals whilst they huff and puff past.  Have you ever seen a jogger smiling?....haughty, yes, determined, yes, buggered (but we won't let that show), yes...but smiling?

The increasing tightness in our glutinous maxima and thigh driving muscles was soon forgotten as we made the most of the views on offer.

 
There is no better way to take in the vista of the marina basin, the old jetty and the apartments and houses of upper crust Coffs than from the rising western slope of Muttonbird.  And the island is aptly named.  Each year thousands of wedge-tailed shearwaters, nicknamed 'muttonbirds' by early settlers who would harvest these birds for their fatty, mutton like flesh, return to this island to mate and reproduce between May and June.  Each pair, which mate for life, returns year after year to exactly the same relatively shallow burrow which they dig in the peaty soil of the island.  The areas of brown on the surface of the grass shown in this photo are patches of soil from recently renovated burrows.  It is extraordinary to see how tightly they are massed over the entire island.  Dotted throughout the burrows are chains of small tubular rat traps placed there by island park rangers to reduce, as far as possible, the predatory effects of these rodents.







Views across Coffs' more northern beaches are also possible from the vantage points of Muttonbird,













as are those south over the southern breakwater to the sweep of Boambee Beach north of Sawtell.







Apart from the muttonbird habitat, the seaward end of the island provides the opportunity to see the blow spouts of the migratory whales, southbound at this time of the year.  We were encouraged to make the effort to watch the sunrise from this vantage point.  Maybe next trip!   

And who said breakwaters were aesthetically boring?  We were delighted to see that someone in authority had the good sense to allow this spot of colour to become an interesting change to the otherwise grey of the rocks at the end of the southern wall.

And on the northern breakwater wall, I was fascinated by the way in which the huge cement blocks had been, on first glance, apparenty tumbled randomly along the top and sides of the rock wall.

Random it is not, as my later enquiry revealed.  The placement of these blocks is quite deliberate and designed to most effectively dissipate the energy of the waves as they crash against the wall.

As well as the obvious attraction of the marina from an aesthetic perspective, and for those wealthy enough to own and enjoy their yachts and stinkies, it is also a  working port, the base for a small but thriving fishing industry.  Whilst the local fishing co-op is the recipient of the majority of the catch, relative bargains, bought direct from the boats, can still be had by the early and the knowledgeable.

 

The old jetty, which is no longer used for commercial shipping, remains another attraction of the area.  After all, what's a harbour without a jetty?

We did finally get back to prowl the markets and to visit the lookout on our way back to Sawtell, where I did manage to add to our collection of the 'odd or quaint'.  I have no idea whatsoever what this plant is, but it certainly has an impressive flower stalk.

Well, so much for our limited and targeted wander in Coffs.  We did tour far more extensively on our last visit two years ago and saw no need to repeat it this time around.  There is no doubt that the entire area is one of significant attraction, with its wonderful seascapes, interesting and attractive hinterland, national parks and most amenable climate.  We have no difficulty understanding why people are moving to this area in significant numbers, particularly those looking to enjoy their retirement is comfort.  No...far too soon for us.....settling down that is.