Saturday 1 March 2014

ALBANY 2 - THE MARKETS (FEBRUARY 2014)

To date in our wanderings around Western Australia we have loved the place, but, as with all things there are exceptions.  I have already grizzled loud and long about the price of dining out and a beer in a pub, so let's move on to fresh veggies!   In all the supermarkets we have used since our arrival, we have yet to find one where the vegetable section will consistently stock good quality, fresh produce.  Two particular offenders are Iceberg lettuce and onions, yes, onions, of all things.  I had never before thought I would have trouble getting reasonable onions but we have come across some shockers, and I use many of them in Pierre's galley.

So you can imagine how our ears pricked up here in Albany when we heard about the Saturday morning Collie Street farmers' market.  We were out of the blocks with alacrity, salivating and eager.

We arrived at what we understood to be the appointed hour of opening to find that we were clearly not the only folk in Albany gagging for good veggies. The approach streets were clogged with hopeful drivers circling for a parking spot like vultures over a fresh kill, and I can tell you, they swooped on any opening with similar fervour, and with a complete lack of compassion for their fellow man!  



Even the presence of the local council inspector did little to deter some of the more desperate who obviously took the view that it was better to seek forgiveness than permission.  "But I always park here sir. Yellow line?  Oh, is that why there is always a space here". I later had a quick chat to the worthy local council officer, a retired British policeman who had fortunately retained his English Bobby sense of calm....very few tickets were issued, but many transgressors left with red faces and promises of future good parking behaviour.  

Watching the parking scramble was almost an entertainment in itself.  We finally found a slot for the Cruiser (big is not always good) and off we toddled to see if this place lived up to the hype. 



Vendors set up their pitches in a small vacant block in Collie Street immediately next to the back of St John's church.  




As we ventured into the maelstrom of jostling purchasers we were staggered to find quite long queues at many stalls. This we thought, was a very good omen. (and this is not a typical 'crowd' shot....things had begun to thin out by this stage)








Ever the canny shopper, Liz insisted we do a complete circuit of the stalls before adding any weight to our empty shopping bags. I snapped whilst she prowled (that's her in the purple shirt striding along mid shot...if you have ever watched a seagull in flight looking for a tasty morsel below you have a very good idea of Liz's head movement!),







and spent a few minutes listening to the surprisingly good renditions on the saxophone by the troubadour of the day who weaved and bobbed with an enthusiasm which matched her musical skills.





And then came the big moment....we joined the line at a stall from which the beans (one of our targets) had just been walking off the shelves. I presented at the counter clutching my chosen plastic bag of green goodness. "That will be $7.00 thanks". Some things in Western Australia just don't change. Whilst we didn't actually weigh them, we later reckoned that these organic treasures were valued at something like $15.00 a kilo, but they were the best beans we have ever eaten (including those I used to grow myself).  

Later that day I munched my way through cobs of equally excellent sweet corn, and delighted every time I pulled a leaf or two from my prized Iceberg lettuce (which was actually crisp!). Bugger the cost.....we were back the following Saturday! 

Markets are a bit of a 'thing' in the Albany area.  Every town seems to have one, and in Albany, the Saturday farmers' market gives way to the Sunday 'Boatshed' harbour market, a horse of a very different colour as we discovered.






One thing they both have in common...they are popular (with the locals as well as visitors), but at least here the parking is a little more orderly.






The venue for this weekly jolly is 'The Boatshed', a large, galvanized iron building which lies next to the Albany small boat marina.  On market day they trot out this wonderful old double ended 'dory', a four crew rowing boat which is actually of a type which preceded today's modern lifesaving surf boats.




We had been told that this was the market to visit if we were looking for fresh fish.  And indeed



the stall pictured here on the left had a fine selection, but today we were not in the market for fish, and just as well...they might be fresh, but they were typically expensive.







And within a week I had managed to catch our own fine garfish from the Emu Point channel (action shots later!)









The Boatshed market features a bread stall of significance and a bloke out the front who cooks ham and cheese croissants, quiches and other such goodies in a small wood oven.











Once we were inside the building we could see why.  A social breakfast at the Boatshed is obviously de rigueur in Albany....a croissant or fresh bun, a cup of coffee and a long chat (for those quick enough to snaffle a seat which, as they say in real estate, become 'tightly held')








And again, what's a market without an entertainer.  This bloke was actually very good.  I was a bit miffed we had not arrived early enough (for that, read 30 minutes before the starting gun) to find a seat.  I could have happily spent an hour or so listening to his musical offerings.








Although this is a very different market to that held on Saturdays, there is one fruit and veggie stall where the goodies on display were being sold against the backdrop of the Marina beyond.






Which is where we ventured next, and here we were greeted with something completely different. Talk about 'little and large'.



Interestingly, the bloke in the black outfit approached Liz when she showed interest in the Great Danes.....and tried to flog her a pup (they were obviously breeders doing their 'market' thing away from the food).  He did seem to understand that a Great Dane in a caravan was a bit like trying to divide 2 by 3.  It doesn't work simply!





The Boatshed opens out onto a small beach where outdoor tables were as well populated as those inside, despite the rather manky weather.








The main working port is not too far away, and on the other side of the market area is the Albany entertainment centre and another small boat dock area, but we shall visit them on a brighter day. We are planning to again assault the Boatshed when we return to Albany, now wise to the tricks of the table grabbing locals.....we'll be up early!

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