And so it was that we turned our back for the time being on the hub-bub and commercialism of Coral Bay and continued to make our way north up the Cape.
The spine of the North-West Cape,Cape Range, was looming on the far horizon,
as were the termite mounds, on a much closer skyline.
We began to drive past long sand hills ridges, the sand barely visible beneath the thick cover of low scrub,
until we reached and passed the RAAF Base Learmonth, the town of Exmouth itself, the Naval Station, and the towering aerials of the US Navy Very Low Frequency radio base, the point from which communications are maintained with submarines hundreds, if not thousands, of kilometres away as they steal about under the waves carrying out their clandestine work.
I can actually remember when this mysterious North-West Cape communications centre was mooted and confirmed in 1963. All very spooky stuff, and the cause of much scare-mongering at the time. Like the facilities at Pine Gap, this was predicted to make Australia the target of all types of destructive nonsense. 'Nonsense' was the word indeed but more of this incredible facility later.
For now, we had turned the corner at the tip of the Cape and were now about to head south past the Vlamingh Head lighthouse
and on down the western side of the Cape, where the white water wash over the Ningaloo Reef is never far away.
Nor are the ubiquitous termite mounds, less frequent along this road, but with a few still maintaining a presence.
Yardie Homestead was in sight, nestled amongst the trees at the base of the western side of Cape Range.
All that now remained was to negotiate the left hand corner at the sign posted junction
and continue on into the park along what was for all the world like a FNQ 'Development Road', a single lane of bitumen on which passing another vehicle demands the exercise of common sense and a reduction in speed as both vehicles move partially off onto the dirt verge.
And here we were at last, Yardie Homestead. What will this outpost on the Cape present the weary traveller?
Hmmmm, some folk must carry some bloody big rods....the last time we saw one of these warnings was at the Caloundra boat ramp on Golden Beach where the reference to possible power line strike related to yacht masts!
The entrance road took us past some of the more up-market park cabins,
the very presentable modern station homestead
and the tennis courts, which have seen better days,
until we reached the park office and fuel station.
Yardie Homestead is nothing if not self-contained. Behind the office and bowsers, across this most welcome patch of lawn, the park pool offers solace for the over heated, and the restaurant immediately behind it, succour for the famished. Here the menu was well balanced and the prices surprising reasonable by WA standards (what am I going to have to grizzle about when we leave this state?) given the captive nature of the potential dining audience!
And for those with the desire to self cater but do not have the where-with-all, the camp kitchen at Yardie is large and well equipped,
as is the fish cleaning station, as one would expect given the welcoming sign at the entrance...'the Home of Serious Fishermen'. Behind this venue of scaling, filleting and bragging, the well grassed tent ground was occupied by a couple of domes of canvass. By nightfall, this area was alive with backpackers.
After booking in, we meandered our way down the dirt roadway
past the 'second class' cabins
and the ablution block
before turning into our row
and dropping anchor on our allotted site, which was right at the far end of it.
The sites are Yardie Homestead are not green. Anything but. Many do have quite adequate shade, and, as ours did, many have cement slabs. Despite the understandably dry and dusty nature of the van sites themselves at a place such as this where water is at a premium, Yardie does have a number of very well grassed areas where those yearning for a touch of green can seek some respite.
This is a place where its occupants can be divided into two quite distinct groups....those like us who are transient tourists, here for a few days to take in the sights of the western coast of the Cape and the Ningaloo, and those who camp here for three months or more and fish and fish and fish.
The regulars set up all manner of camp sites ranging from quite small and neat
to the 'Taj Mahal' of the park. Believe it or not, there is a caravan in the middle of all this canvas and hessian. And do note the aerials....Yardie has one major drawback...it is an electronic dead spot. Mobile phone reception can be obtained in a small area near the camp kitchen, a place where one can learn all about everyone's business if prepared to sit for a while!
This is also a park for boats...again of all shapes and sizes. They range from tinnies to whoppers like this unit.
And here is a bloke who has his priorities in order. Big boat, solid truck and tiny tent. No guessing why he is here.
From what we saw in our three nights at Yardie, they certainly do catch fish here. The waters both inside and beyond the Ningaloo are teaming with many highly prized table fish, ranging from the inshore whiting and bream to offshore demersal and pelagic species. Tuna, Spanish and 'doggie' mackerel, cobia, dhufish, trevally, red and pink snapper, emperor and cod all find their way to the cleaning station, where, as I mentioned before, notes are swapped (or not, if a particularly good new ground has been discovered) and yarns spun as the scales come off and the fillets are cut and stored. I wandered past on a few occasions, but did not tarry....I was wearing my envy too obviously on my sleeve.
Despite being highly tempted to break out the rods and spend some time on one of the many beach fishing locations on this side of the Cape, the bug which finally laid me low was beginning to bite whilst we were here. I put myself on 'light duties' and confined activity to sight-seeing only.
Even that was limited, given what is on offer within striking distance of Yardie Homestead. The western side of North-West Cape is a nirvana for those seeking white sands, crystal clear and calm inshore waters and the colour and movement of the reef fish of the Ningaloo. Turquiose Bay, Oyster Stacks, Sandy Bay, Osprey Bay all lie along the coast within 50 kms of Yardie and all have something different to offer. We do plan a return visit next year.
Next, we explore the Vlamingh Head lighthouse and discover its interesting origins, visit the wreck which prompted its construction, and learn about the VLF radio base and the genesis of Exmouth.
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