As we very reluctantly left Horrocks Beach for what will probably be quite some time our thoughts quickly switched to what was in store for us today......free camping with all our new bits and pieces of electronic kit. Would it all work as planned?
Galena Bridge camp ground was our destination for the day and our next overnight stop. We had passed this large free camp area on several previous occasions as we had been toddling up and down the Brand Highway for various reasons. On one trip we actually drove in and checked it out. It appeared to be ideal for a rig of our size.
Our only real concern as we pulled in off the highway
Galena Bridge camp ground was our destination for the day and our next overnight stop. We had passed this large free camp area on several previous occasions as we had been toddling up and down the Brand Highway for various reasons. On one trip we actually drove in and checked it out. It appeared to be ideal for a rig of our size.
Our only real concern as we pulled in off the highway
and made our way slowly down the long sealed entrance road
was that the place would be crowded and that all the most desirable spots next to the Murchison River would be taken.
Once we had turned off onto the dirt roadway into the camp ground it was obvious that our fears had been groundless. To our real surprise, at this time of the day, we had the place to ourselves but for one other van.
Our planned site on the river bank was assured. Riparian delights were to be ours.
Apart from its size, the Galena Bridge ground is dotted with cement tables and benches and fire pits, some of which, like this, have swivelling BBQ plates attached to them for the convenience of the less well equipped camper.
Two large toilet blocks provide for those in need of a 'comfort stop'. We did not use them.....sadly they were filthy. I'll not bother with the fine detail other than to comment that there are unfortunately some on the road who have absolutely no idea of the basics of common courtesy towards their fellow travellers. Their personal toilet habits can range from grubby to down right disgusting. We were grateful to have our own.
As soon as we had settled we could see that the Murchison River was in full spate. The recent rains from TC Olwyn and a few later cloudbursts in the catchment area were washing downstream in a rapid muddy torrent. Even the exposed areas of the banks were still sodden, evidence that the river had been much higher in the past few days before our arrival. Any thoughts I may have had about fishing were quickly off the agenda.Apart from the one fellow camper on our arrival, we did have other company. This squadron of swans were our constant companions for the duration.
With the van set up and our first challenge met....ensuring that the Waco freezer was being properly powered from the 12 volt plug we had had installed on the A frame, it was time for a wander. But first there were very necessary arrangements to be made.
The flies here at Galena Bridge were in plague proportions.....wretched little bush flies in their trillions, apparently all hatched out as a direct result of the drenching delivered by TC Olwyn. Any thought of outdoor activities without a fly net and spray was totally out of the question. Thank goodness we had bought nets at Erldunda (on the Stuart Highway) many moons ago, and more importantly, could remember where we had stowed them in the van!
We ventured out looking for all the world like beekeepers about to raid a hive. These nets can be uncomfortable, but the alternative was untenable. These pesky little flies were constantly in search of moisture. They would make a bee line (fly line?) for exposed ears, eyes, noses and mouths and were totally undeterred in their quests by the usual waving and swatting. They are truly horrible creatures when in these numbers and did spoil quite a few of our planned ventures.
But needs must. We were determined not to be forced indoors for the duration by these unlovely insects but I have to say it was touch and go on occasions.
The Galena Bridge camp ground extends along both sides of the Murchison. The bank opposite that on which we were moored is the quieter of the two, but it is also more difficult to access in a big rig.
But it presents no problems for smaller vehicles. Interestingly, we later came across this red camper at a number of other locations further north. This is a bloke who obviously never pays for a site unless he has to.
From this bank we could see across the river to our patch where again the extent to which the river had risen since our last visit was obvious.
Fortunately the causeway which connects the two banks was not under water,
and as we walked back to our side the Murchison presented quite a sight as its brown waters flowed inexorably seawards under the Galena Bridge. Looking at this, we could but imagine the colour of the sea at Kalbarri where the river empties into the Indian Ocean. By way of comparison, when we were last here, the river was not much wider than the distance between the centre spans of the bridge.
Back again on the south bank, walked to the far end of the camp ground where the river flows past a small island.
And there they were again.....our resident swans.gliding majestically along in the Murchison 'milo'.
We even received a personal visit later that afternoon, when our feathered friends came ashore for their supper of juicy green pick, right at the door of our van.
By late afternoon the grounds of Galena Bridge had begun to fill. A few vans and motor homes and quite a number of backpacking groups, in their universally junky vehicles, had taken up residence. We did watch on with some sympathy as those in tents struggled against what was, by now, a sharp breeze.
We were well and truly indoors by this stage and madly experimenting with various combinations of flexes and power boards as we plugged into our newly installed inverter and switched on. Yes! The TV and DVD fired up instantly and the computer worked a treat. With the solar panels pouring power into our two new batteries, we felt we were at last truly self-sufficient.
Max was less than entirely impressed as he halted midstream during a particularly thorough wash and adopted his 'buddah' pose whilst we whooped and hollered with delight in our new found electrical independence. Humans...well at least they feed me!
Once we had tested our new systems, it was off to the galley for Chef Pierre.
A tasty evening meal of crumbed Albany garfish, Horrocks whiting and a fine fresh salad brought this highly successful day to a close.
We were off bright and early the next morning on the next leg of our return north, but this time a visit to Shark Bay was on the agenda. We had decided to overnight at the caravan park at Hamelin Pool, the world famous, shallow seaside location of the Hamelin Pool stromatolites, the oldest living creatures on the planet.
We left Galena Bridge on something of a high, but as if to remind us that there were still challenges to be faced, we had not long been back on the road when this sight confronted us.
Things soon became considerably worse. The strong easterly winds were stripping tonnes of top soil from a huge bare roadside paddock and whipping it across the highway. Lights on and speed down to less than 30 kph, we edged our way through this horrible pall of dust for quite a few minutes before emerging the other side.
From there on it was plain sailing, past the Billabong Roadhouse and pub (little did we know at the time that we would be back here later for an overnight stay) and the Overlander Roadhouse where we turned off the Brand Highway and onto the Shark Bay road.
Some 30 kms later and the sign we had been looking for came into view.
We turned right and the road narrowed, but we had only 5 kms left to travel.
What an extrordinary experience awaited us. The Hamelin Pool Caravan Park is something else altogether.
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