PORT HEDLAND - HUGE SHIPS DAY AND NIGHT (14 MAY 2015)

Subterfuge accomplished and safely ensconced in the Cooke Point park, we woke the following day with but one mission in life....to see the port of Port Hedland in operation.

Port Hedland is an extraordinary place. It is the world's largest iron ore export port. From here too, huge quantities of salt are shipped around the globe. The port also services the sometimes overshadowed, but nevertheless important, Pilbara pastoral industry.

How did all this come about? Not overnight. Let me quote here from the Pilbara Port Authority website.....a potted history of the development of what we see today.

"Discovered in 1863 by Captain Peter Hedland, who was seeking to offload cattle for a nearby station, the Port Hedland Harbour was originally known as Mangrove Harbour.

Towards the end of the century, it became apparent that the pastoral industry in the Eastern Pilbara needed a port. In 1896, construction of the first Port Hedland jetty began. Discovery of gold in nearby Marble Bar drove extension of the jetty in 1908 and completion of a railway to connect Marble Bar and Port Hedland in 1911.

The Port of Port Hedland was mainly used for the import of stores and local primary producer goods and the export of pearl shell, wool, livestock, gold, tin and small amounts of copper until the late 1930’s.

After the Second World War, the Port continued to serve the pastoral industry, but also began to export significant quantities of manganese.

1965 signalled the beginning of the iron ore export industry when Goldsworthy Mining Ltd (now BHP Billiton Iron Ore) dredged an approach channel and turning basin for ships up to 65,000 Dead Weight Tonnes (DWT). The first shipment of iron ore left the Port on 27 May 1966.

Leslie Salt Company (now Dampier Salt Ltd) also commenced development of a solar salt industry and a new land backed wharf (No. 3 Berth) was constructed to cater for salt exports and to improve facilities for importation of fuel and producer products.

Major capital dredging was undertaken to deepen the channel by 2.5 metres in 1986. In conjunction with a computerized under keel clearance program, (the first in an Australian port) this allowed the port to handle ships up to 330m and 260,000 DWT.

Rapid expansion of Port facilities occurred in the early 2000’s to accommodate new and emerging mineral exporters. Fortescue Metals Group and BHP Billiton Iron Ore constructed additional berthing facilities within the Port and Port Hedland Port Authority developed additional berthing facilities during this time, including Berth No. 2, Harriet Point berths and Utah Point Multi-User Bulk Export Facility to meet this exponential growth."

This really is a port unlike any other in the country, a huge joint enterprise involving both public authorities and the mining industry. Because of the way in which the docks and loading areas are constructed, it is impossible for any visitor (who is not airborne) to gain access or any real picture of how this all works. I shall do my best to provide some idea with help from my trusty assistant, the Internet.

This first, thanks to 'megaconstrucciones', shows the passage used by the entering and departing ships. From the roads, they make their way between the sand spit jutting out to sea (this is actually the channel dredge spoil deposit) and the end point of the bottom loading docks. They then sail past the the rounded point and into the basin beyond where they either go alongside in that area or are turned around to subsequently dock alongside the loading wharves near the entrance channel (one ship we watched did this).

This is one of the best composite photos I could find to further explain Port Hedland. My thanks and acknowledgement of 'flickr.com' for it. As I sometimes do I've extended it beyond the borders of the blog page for extra clarity. 

Where to begin!  At the bottom.  Here you can see the area given over to the ore stockpiles and loaders. Above that are four bulk carriers alongside in this section of the port. On the opposite side of the channel is the small basin in which the port tugs moor (the jetty from which we watched the ship movements is just next to this) and behind that, the strip of buildings of 'old Port Hedland'.  Looking further behind these buildings towards the top of the photo are more huge stockpiles of iron ore. To the right of these, another two ships are lying alongside with two more on the other side of the basin.

The buildings of South Hedland and the airport runway can be seen in the middle distance and to the left are the flat evaporation pans of the Port Hedland salt mine. Our caravan park at Cooke Point lies even further to the left of the salt pans, as does the more salubrious suburban area

As you can see, the port of Port Hedland is a complex place. From all parts of the old section of the town the stockpiles or ore and salt and the huge machines used to move it and load the ships dominate the skyline.

But it is when the tide floods in that things really get busy here in the port.  The enormous size of the bulk carriers which transport the iron ore and salt means that they can only enter or leave the port on the high tide. 

This photo, courtesy of 'safety4sea', hopefully gives some idea.  Here two huge bulk carriers (we are talking in the 150,000 - 250,000 tonne range) are being herded out to sea with very little distance between them. 

The brown silt stains stirred up by their huge screws, which can been seen in the wakes of both, gives some indication of just how little clearance there is between their keels and the channel bottom.  When the water is high here it becomes a frenetic scurry to move as many ships as possible before the tide ebbs to the point where the carriers would go aground. 

This is what we (well, me really...Liz was tolerant!) had come to see. I had some idea of the shipping movements mid morning, but as we made our way into the port area along the Port Hedland esplanade, I could see that we would have to scoot....the Heng Shan was making her way in from the roads, at speed.










Past one of the few public gardens in the town we drove on our way to the spot shown on our town map as the 'public lookout'.

After parking on the edge of the entrance channel into  the port,
















where we also some across one of the very few grassy parks in this very functional town,

I began to look around for what I had expected to find here.....some sort of elevated vantage point, but not so. The so called 'lookout' is at ground level. I actually wandered out onto the short jetty to watch the proceedings and from here I could see across the entrance channel to where two carriers were in the process of loading, whilst immediately in front of Leyla

the wharf was empty and the loaders inactive.....but not for long.














In the short time it had taken us to get into position, the Heng Shan was looming large between the channel lateral markers.

With her attendant four tugs (the standard requirement....one is on the other side of the ship) the speed with which this massive carrier was making her way in to port was incredible.









In less than two minutes her huge unladen bulk had passed my vantage point as she made her way into the basin beyond. I estimated her speed at something in the order of 5-8 knots and marvelled at the skill of the pilot and the tug masters as they made another of their daily races with the tide. 




Given the size of these vessels, (for example, Heng Shan is neary 300 metres long and fully laden weighs in at 175,000 tonnes) their docking is a comparative 'blink and you will miss it' affair which demonstrates the urgency with which these vessles are moved in and out of the port. I did take the time later to find and scan read the operations manual of the Port Authority....page after page of detailed and intricate instructions and calculations....these guys really do earn their money.

We knew that the next arrival, and the last to be coming in on the morning tide, should not be hitting the entrance channel for an hour.....we had time to do a quick lap of this end of Port Hedland town. 





Just as we are about to leave the jetty area I spied a large launch making across the channel 

to come alongside a ladder on Leyla's starboard side. We then watched a number of the crew disembark the ship and go aboard the launch. What's this?  A harbour cruise for visiting seamen?

Well, of sorts, but only very brief. As you may be able to see from the previous aerial shots (and it was something I didn't realise at the time we were watching all this) the way in which these ore loading docks are constructed does not allow any direct vehicular or foot access from a docked ship to the delights of the port (otherwise known as the pubs). So, for any thirsty tar, it's all aboard the commuter launch for the quick trip across the entrance channel and onto dry land. 

As I watched all this going on I also noted that the Leyla was well down by the stern and that the ore loader was pouring ore through one of the hatches midships. I guessed it would not be too long before she would be ready for her journey to China.





No need for us to board a launch to reach dry land....we were already there, so it was off down the very short main shopping street here in 'old Hedland' to see what lay beyond.








Again, without having had the benefit of seeing aerial shots at this point, we were stunned to find that this street emerged directly on the business end of the port....this massive salt stock pile has apparently almost become a tourist attraction in its own right. As we gawked, a Ports Authority helicopter thwaked its way to a landing 








and on the ground, what else but road trains, of course.











A mere block away we came across the almost incongruously 'arty' signs announcing the presence of the Port Authority buildings, 







opposite which was a real surprise, the very solid walls of the Port Hedland War Memorial

standing in the second patch of lawn we had seen at this end of town.

Here, under the shadow of the shipping movement control tower, these rugged walls are dedicated to each theatre of war in which Australians have served. This was a real labour of love and community commitment. Between October 1990 and March 1991, the 48 tonnes of iron ore from which the walls are built, ore donated by one of the mining companies, was transported to the site by members of the North-West Vietnam Veterans group.


Designed to represent the rugged country in which it stands, the memorial was constructed by members of the Port Hedland RSL, the Pilbara Regiment and a few local citizens. The thin, different coloured 'arms' radiating out across the brickwork each carry the imprinted details of a war hero and the story of acts of valour.



But there has to be a pub somewhere here, this is a port after all! Sure enough, there are, two of them, and they could not be more different. The Port Hedland Hotel was clearly the first to offer a refreshing ale to thirsty seamen and others.

In the next block, opposite the War Memorial, we found the much more up market port pub, The Esplanade, a rather grand establishment with many rooms, a fine dining area, both alfresco and indoors, and bar prices to match (I did pop in for just the one small beer later that afternoon when we came back to watch a departure...at $10.50 for a middy of James Squires Golden Ale I’m pleased I didn’t order a pint).

The prices did not seem to deter the locals. The very smartly appointed lounge was well patronised by a number of groups of ‘suits’ and one very chirpy clutch of young lasses hoeing into ‘cocktails of the day’, a rather exotic concoction which could become yours for a mere $20. I hope it was a special occasion!

But we must hustle back to the port entrance viewing area.....the Pacific Creation was inbound, the last ship for this tide.

In she came, again nudged, prodded and pulled by her attendant tugs, into the channel at the rate of knots (literally!)

With her prop thrashing

she slid majestically past the jetty and off down past the row of docks to the basin beyond. 

We thought that would be the last we saw of her, but no. Whilst we were off doing something else for a few minutes, she was turned about and brought back to take up a mooring at the vacant wharf in front of Leyla which by now was taking ore in her front hold. It’s amazing to think that these huge bulk carriers can be loaded and turned around in 24-36 hours. Up to 200,000 tonnes of iron ore remember!

Well, that was it for the shipping movement this morning.  As we made our way back from the port, we took the time to stop briefly on the Esplanade and look back over one of the Port Hedland (main town) suburban areas where the skyline is dominated by heavy ore loading equipment

and, panning slightly to the right, the towering superstructures of two docked bulk carriers and the port control tower came into view over the rooftops.

A little further on, from the vantage point of another viewing area, we could take in a scene

which really says it all about Port Hedland......two ore trains, one arriving and one departing under the forest like canopy of overhead light poles standing dormant in the daylight, and beyond that, the huge salt stockpiles awaiting loading.

For now it was time to go back to camp and check up on our incarcerated cat. Now Max does spend the vast majority of his day in the land of nod, and for that purpose it doesn’t really matter where he is, indoors or out (although he does show a distinct preference for snoozing on his outdoor chair) and to that end we were not too concerned, but what he does hate is not being able to have at least one or two outdoor roams in the course of a day, and to date this had not happened.

And he is particularly partial to joining those who feed and brush him during the late afternoon happy hours. In fact he has become quite social over the past two and a half years, and, as we were to discover here in Port Hedland, he becomes very grumpy if not able to go outside at all. 

We did reach a compromise later that day....we let him sit looking out through the screen door of the van as we sat outside in the gathering darkness...we were leaving in the morning and really didn’t care if he was spotted. What could anyone do then? Honesty demands the confession that I was rather hoping we would be confronted by park management over our flagrant breach of park rules and I could air my views about their pricing and pet policy in words of one syllable. To the great relief of my human travelling companion the evening passed uneventfully and without any confrontation.

But before we arrived at that part of the day, we did toddle back into the port area to try and catch sight of one of these huge ships departing on the evening tide. 

And it was then we discovered another very odd facet of the port operation here. Tied up alongside the short port jetty was the very smart and business like, water jet propelled launch the Necede.

Its function soon became clear....it is a flash ferry.  As we waited for the first of the departing ships, a group of well kitted up chaps arrived in a 4WD ute and made their way along the lower level of the jetty to the launch. 

I just happened to be on that level at the time watching a couple of Irish backpackers who were struggling with their eel like catch and trying to decide if or not it was edible (I had no idea what it was and suggested that discretion may be the better part of valour in this case, advice I strongly suspect fell on very deaf ears...after all saving money wherever possible is of the essence on these overseas jaunts).

I had to find out what these newly arrived fellows were all about and they were happy to indulge me....this was the oncoming crew of one of the port tugs. Like everyone else here, they too had to reach their vessel by tender. 

On the other side of the channel, Leyla was by now looking very low in the water. Her departure must be imminent. The ore loader was now hovering over her forward hatch for what we assumed would be the last of her fill.

The tugmen were alongside and on board their marine tractor in no time. I have to say that I found this very odd indeed. There was no real reason I could fathom to preclude having the tugs moored alongside rather than in the basin they occupied....but still, what would I know.  It almost seemed as though this had all been set up to keep a few delivery launch skippers and crews in work!

And then the trusty Necede made the 200 or so metre journey back to the jetty to deposit the day shift crew who had just been replaced.

Home for tea...this beats night shift!

By now the sun was low on the horizon behind the silhouetted bulk of Pacific Creation and the distant ore loaders,

and, in the pastel twilight, a fully laden bulk carrier was making her ponderous passage past the guiding poles of the now green and red flashing lateral channel marker lights.

As the shepherding tugs began to leave station, the ship’s engines started to propel all 150,000 tonnes of her forward with sufficient speed for safe self steering.

And so it was off to the other side of the equator for yet another of the legion of these huge ships which ply back and forth taking Australia’s iron ore to the steel smelters of China, Japan and many other countries starved of this natural resource. What a pity we have become so dependent on the strengths of their economies and so wretchedly subject to their vagaries.

With the sun now well below the horizon and lights of the docked ships and the ore loaders all coming on, we farewelled the wharves of Port Headland and made our way back to base. A real treat awaited us on our return.

The rather barren daytime outlook from the rear of our van had been transformed. In the final afterglow of the sunset, the lights of the ore train line and the highway produced a necklace of colour, twinkling and sparkling right across the horizon. 

What a spectacle this was, one which I have but poorly captured with my limited photographic abilities.

As Liz and I sat outside our van in the descending cool and darkness sipping on a welcome evening libation or two we decided that this display more than made up for the trials and tribulations of our arrival into Port Hedland a day earlier.

There was much of suburban Port Hedland I did not bother to photograph or even explore in any detail. We were here for one purpose only, to see big ships at close hand, and to that end it was mission accomplished. 

For what it is worth, what we did see of the Port Hedland suburbs, with the exception of one or two small areas near our caravan park, had very limited appeal. The beaches did nothing to excite our admiration, and as for South Headland.....well from all we learnt, that is the Bronx!

As I said in the introduction, this is an extraordinary place and we had done what we came to do. We have no plans to return. For any who have no interest in very large ships at very close quarters, and/or object to paying criminally high prices for very modest caravan park accommodation, our advice as far as Port Hedland is concerned is simple......don’t bother!