I really do enjoy sharing our adventures but I have to say there are times when doing so presents something of a challenge, such as when I fall so far behind.
In real time we are now back at Kurrimine Beach on the Far North Queensland coast (where I hope to catch up completely over the course of our first fortnight there), but in 'blogtime' we are about to embark on our first Broome adventure.....the famed Cable Beach awaits us.
We actually made our first visit to the renowned Cable Beach Resort on the evening of 20 May. As I have mentioned earlier, our arrival into Broome had been organized to catch up with our very good friends (and erstwhile Oleander Street neighbours) Marie and Dennis Lorenzin, who flew into town to take a tour of the Canning Stock Route.
What a delightful evening we spent. They were actually staying at the Cable Beach Resort, where we met initially, before heading off to the nearby Divers Tavern for dinner (the Resort prices are through the roof!). Nightcaps at the Resort completed a wonderful evening of 'South Brighton' and families 'catch-up' before Liz and I gave into the sales pitch of a passing pedicab (a bicycle type of rickshaw) and were peddled back to our camp. This was something of a godsend....I had been prepared to hoof it, but my injured toe was still not up to much. And I have to say, this was the only time we darkened the inside of this Cable Beach mecca....we were much happier at the not too distant Broome Surf Club.
The following morning we were off again to the beach, and although it is a mere ten minute walk from our park, I was again forced to drive as a concession to the dreaded toe which was not progressing as The Matron would have liked. In fact we spent the coming afternoon at the Broome Medical Centre where the on duty doctor agreed with Liz that another course of antibiotics was in order (but more of the foot later).
For the mean time it was off down the street on which our park was located, past the Oakes Resort and the entrance driveways of two local mansions.
The following morning we were off again to the beach, and although it is a mere ten minute walk from our park, I was again forced to drive as a concession to the dreaded toe which was not progressing as The Matron would have liked. In fact we spent the coming afternoon at the Broome Medical Centre where the on duty doctor agreed with Liz that another course of antibiotics was in order (but more of the foot later).
For the mean time it was off down the street on which our park was located, past the Oakes Resort and the entrance driveways of two local mansions.
We found a spot in the car park at the rear of the Broome Surf Club
and made our way past the imposing set of rear doors of this surprisingly large SLSC
to a viewing platform nearby where we took in our first daytime view of this famed beach. It was still quite early in the morning, and as you can see, the sands were all but deserted.
The scene looking to the north was no different, although the 'Beach Hut' hire stall was being moved into place. Soon the beach would be festooned with brightly coloured beach umbrellas and deck chairs, all available at a reasonable rental for those who find these are essential for a relaxing day on the shore.
And here I got my first really big surprise.....Cable Beach is actually quite rocky in parts. I had, for some reason, a vision of endless miles of flat, light coloured sands, and here we were looking at a rocky plate shelf of some size on the beach north of the resort area.
But before we take a closer look at all this, I must fast forward a week or so to the day we took to the sea on a tour of the Willie Creek pearl farm. This provided us with a good view of the layout of Cable Beach and all its infrastructure, and again I have resorted to the
use of 'extra-large' view to provide some detail. The 'resort' area of Cable Beach is actually quite small. What you are looking at here is it. On the right is the roof of the Surf Club. The central buildings are those of Zanders Restaurant, whilst the several buildings of the resort itself are at the left end of the shot (where the rocks begin).
Admittedly the resort complex does extend quite a way back from the beach, but I have to say I was quite taken aback by the size of all this....I had been expecting much more. The main swimming and sunning section of the beach is to the right of the surf club (you can just make out the Beach Hut vehicle) whilst the much touted camel rides take place on the northern section of the beach which is to the left of this photo. (hope this all helps).
Let me quote from the Cable Beach Resort website for a potted history. "Cable Beach Resort & Spa is the dream of English politician and construction magnate, Lord Alistair McAlpine.
Lord McAlpine fell in love with Broome and its beaches, and set his heart on building a retreat here. After buying the land with a contract signed on the back of a beer coaster in the Roebuck Bay pub, he began to turn his dream into a reality.
Lord McAlpine’s dream was finally realised when the resort opened its doors in May 1988. In 1999, the Perth-based company Hawaiian Pty Ltd bought Cable Beach Club and now wholly-own and manage the property which has become an integral part of the Broome experience and one of Australia’s premier resorts.
Hawaiian created the resort’s Buddha Sanctuary with its 7-tonne quartz crystal statue and presented it to Broome’s residents as a place to relax and reflect.
In 2000, Cyclone Rosita caused extensive damage to both Broome and the Resort. Hawaiian decided to invest heavily in the resort to create an iconic tourist destination; and has since made over $40 million of repairs, additions and improvements to both the resort and other Broome properties."
Our somewhat eccentric English Lord (his life story and his love affair with Australia are well worth looking up) was not the only member of the rich and famous to take a shine to Broome.
Tucked away behind its screen of large palms and tropical gardens is this building at the northern end of the Cable Beach 'built up area'. And the owner? None other than Kerry Stokes (who we suspect flew in for the beach polo during our stay). Our road to the beach took us past the driveway gate to his property. The gardens just had to be seen to be believed. I did not attempt a photo for obvious reasons. I had no desire to be fighting off security staff whom I suspected may have been lurking.
But as for the 'not so rich and famous', well we had to content ourselves with a walk along the sands which we did, heading north from the vehicle access ramp.
As I earlier commented, I was amazed to find the rock formations which are a real feature of this section of Cable Beach. These present something of an obstacle course for the initial stage of the journey of those wishing to drive north along the beach. Their route takes them firstly through the rocks
and then around them
before the wide expanses of clear sand open out before them. The use of vehicles on the beach is something of a contentious issue at the moment. Irresponsible driver behaviour is causing increasing concern. If what we saw was any indication, there is good cause. Why some idiots feel the need to hurtle along crowded sands at light speed is totally beyond me, but tear along they do to the burgeoning ire of the local authorities. A ban on all vehicular access is in the wind.
I found some of the formations in the plate rocks fascinating,
and the extent to which they covered this portion of the shore line was a real surprise. For me at least, it gave Cable Beach another interesting and completely unexpected dimension.
But of course, this is not what the tourists flock here to see and do. They are far more interested in lazing on the open sands of the beach to the south of the resort area and splashing around in the crystal clear blue waters of the Indian Ocean, which here at Cable Beach are remarkably calm. A surf wave can only be enjoyed when there are strong winds well offshore to create the necessary swell..
Mind you, there were several times during our stay here when the local lifesavers closed the beach, not only as a result of shark sightings, such as on this occasion, but also (as can only happen in this part of the world) at another time when the very large and intimidating Willie Creek resident crocodile decided to take a swim south (we'll visit Willie Creek later)After a short toddle along the northern part of the beach we made our way back to the resort area
and on up the footpath beside the vehicle access ramp.
Here paved steps took us to the upper level of the beautifully kept lawns and gardens which surround the resort itself and the other buildings.
This parking lot near the resort is currently another focal point of concern for those responsible for the civic management of Broome.
And again I have the opportunity to rail against the behaviour of a significant number of European back-packers who flock to Broome (and many others on the west coast). With complete disregard for the comfort and convenience of all others who use this area on a daily basis, many are making this parking lot their personal camping ground with the all the attendant noise and mess that only they can create.
Overnight camping, of course, is totally banned in this area for good reason, and the local authorities have had enough. As we were leaving Broome, a campaign to ensure that this area was only used as it was intended (for temporary parking) was underway. But it gets worse.....many of these visiting ferals who were rightly being given their marching orders had decided to take the rangers on. Things had reached the point where police escorts were becoming necessary.
The unfortunate thing is that there is only a limited amount of action which can be taken against this group of arrogant scabs. They ignore on the spot fines and merely move on to inflict their anti-social behaviour on another long suffering community. We are hoping that a proposal to really hit them where it hurts is instituted....clamping their vehicles will leave them stranded until a release fee is paid. Fingers crossed!
I realise I do bang on about this lot, and that there are some amongst them who are considerate and respectful tourists, but we have had sufficient experience with them to know that these are by far in the minority. The French in partiuclar have developed a most unsavoury reputation for arrogance, a total disregard for any local laws and for stealing (even amongst their fellow Europeans who refer to them disdainfully as 'the Frenchies'). It's a sad situation, and one which is getting worse.
But back to 'our Cable Beach' as we made our way further south along the paved walkway high above the sands
and past Zanders Restaurant where the morning breakfast crowd were out in good numbers.
Just beyond Zanders a small playground provides fun for visiting kiddies
and a set of stairs allows access to the beach below.
At the end of this strip of lawn stands the building which houses the Broome SLSC, a spot we visited more than once during our stay.
And it was here we had another of those 'I can't believe this' experiences. One of the local employed beach lifeguards (they patrol the beach during the week whilst the volunteers take over on the weekends) was walking towards us. I could not believe my eyes and I suspect her reaction was similar.
Cally is a long time member of my home club of Glenelg. We have know her for years. She has fled the cold of the Adelaide winter to take up a contract for the season here in Broome as one of the professional lifeguards. What a gig, and what an encounter. As I have said before, we are beyond being surprised (almost)
We did return to the beach on several occasions, to have a drink or two with new found friends at the surf club, to take in one or two of the famed Cable Beach sunsets and for Liz to tick off a large bucket list item.....a sunset camel ride. (why would you?....author's comment!)
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