The blog is about to change. Now that we have completed our 'lap' of the country, our journey for some time from now on is to be over old ground, albeit in the opposite direction, east across the Barkly and Flinders Highways to the far north Queensland coast. Many of the towns through which we are about to travel have featured before. Given that I'm still madly trying to catch up with real time, I propose to compress it (time that is) in a literary sense for the next few months of our adventures.
After a couple of nights at Tennant Creek recovering from the combined effects of our serious socialising and many kilometres of fairly hard travelling (by our standards) it was time to move on. We were due at our 'winter quarters' at Kurrimine Beach on 13 July just over 1,700 kilometres distant.
But before we left Tennant Creek we received a phone call. It was our very close friends, the Siblys of Port Elliot, who, it transpired, had actually been driving behind us on the Stuart Highway as we approached Threeways. They were en route to Brisbane from Darwin, recognised our rig, but couldn't make immediate contact because their phone batteries were flat. Of course we had continued on into Tennant Creek whilst they refuelled and then turned east onto the Barkly Highway expecting to catch up with us. They were on a tight schedule and rang us a day later. We were all left to reflect on what would have been the most extraordinarily coincidental meeting of our entire travels to date if it were not for a flat phone battery. I can't even begin to do the 'probability' statistical calculation on this one.
So with that incredible near miss still on our minds, we too/two (sorry...irresistible!) took to the Barkly. The free camp at Avon Downs was in our sights for our first stop-over. We knew from our previous sortie across The Barkly that this was a large and seemingly very well set up camp.
We also knew that these camps fill early.....we were determined to be there in the vanguard. And so we were, and managed to acquire a really pleasant patch.
By the time the afternoon sun was beating down, we somewhat smugly set up our chairs in the shade of the trees.
Max loved the spot....he even pretended for a while that he was actually a real hunter....we know better!
Our arrival at Avon Downs represented our last day in the Northern Territory. It is less than 100 kms from the border. Opposite the free camp is the Avon Downs Police Station
and an outbuilding on the verandah of which are all the makings for a free cuppa....a Driver Reviver centre at which weary travellers are able to help themselves to a refreshing brew.
And that's about all there is to Avon Downs (apart from the very large cattle station of the same name). I was a little peeved that my quest to have a yarn with the local copper went unrequited. He was out on patrol. But the sunset did not disappoint.
It was a cracker with colours only the outback can produce.
This had been a good start to our easterly pilgrimage, and we were on the road early again the next morning. The open flat expanses of the Barkly Tablelands had not changed.
An hour's driving and another milestone. We were back in the sunshine state after an absence of just under two years.
A refuelling stop in Camooweal, transit through Mount Isa,
and our second free campsite for the trip loomed. Fountain Springs is another roadside stop we had spotted whilst previously travelling between Cloncurry and 'The Isa'.
As we pulled in and chose our resting place, we realised that our memories had let us down a little. This did not have quite the ambiance we recalled, but we made the most of it anyway,
After a couple of nights at Tennant Creek recovering from the combined effects of our serious socialising and many kilometres of fairly hard travelling (by our standards) it was time to move on. We were due at our 'winter quarters' at Kurrimine Beach on 13 July just over 1,700 kilometres distant.
But before we left Tennant Creek we received a phone call. It was our very close friends, the Siblys of Port Elliot, who, it transpired, had actually been driving behind us on the Stuart Highway as we approached Threeways. They were en route to Brisbane from Darwin, recognised our rig, but couldn't make immediate contact because their phone batteries were flat. Of course we had continued on into Tennant Creek whilst they refuelled and then turned east onto the Barkly Highway expecting to catch up with us. They were on a tight schedule and rang us a day later. We were all left to reflect on what would have been the most extraordinarily coincidental meeting of our entire travels to date if it were not for a flat phone battery. I can't even begin to do the 'probability' statistical calculation on this one.
So with that incredible near miss still on our minds, we too/two (sorry...irresistible!) took to the Barkly. The free camp at Avon Downs was in our sights for our first stop-over. We knew from our previous sortie across The Barkly that this was a large and seemingly very well set up camp.
We also knew that these camps fill early.....we were determined to be there in the vanguard. And so we were, and managed to acquire a really pleasant patch.
By the time the afternoon sun was beating down, we somewhat smugly set up our chairs in the shade of the trees.
Max loved the spot....he even pretended for a while that he was actually a real hunter....we know better!
Our arrival at Avon Downs represented our last day in the Northern Territory. It is less than 100 kms from the border. Opposite the free camp is the Avon Downs Police Station
and an outbuilding on the verandah of which are all the makings for a free cuppa....a Driver Reviver centre at which weary travellers are able to help themselves to a refreshing brew.
And that's about all there is to Avon Downs (apart from the very large cattle station of the same name). I was a little peeved that my quest to have a yarn with the local copper went unrequited. He was out on patrol. But the sunset did not disappoint.
It was a cracker with colours only the outback can produce.
This had been a good start to our easterly pilgrimage, and we were on the road early again the next morning. The open flat expanses of the Barkly Tablelands had not changed.
An hour's driving and another milestone. We were back in the sunshine state after an absence of just under two years.
A refuelling stop in Camooweal, transit through Mount Isa,
and our second free campsite for the trip loomed. Fountain Springs is another roadside stop we had spotted whilst previously travelling between Cloncurry and 'The Isa'.
As we pulled in and chose our resting place, we realised that our memories had let us down a little. This did not have quite the ambiance we recalled, but we made the most of it anyway,
as did many others by the end of the day.
Fortunately none of those crowded in here for the night were in party mode.....that can be challenging at a free campsite were the only rules are those of convention and good manners, and sanctions against those who chose to flout common sense are severely limited. We had a very good sleep, and again were off at 'sparrows'.
Our destination for today was Julia Creek. As the far end of this outback town is a large campsite by the river. We knew it was popular and had decided that if it was too crowded we would toddle off to the town caravan park.
As we crawled along through the narrow carriageway of Julia Creek's main street we were becoming increasingly concerned....the place was awash with caravans, camper trailers, mobile homes and 'whiz bangs', those horrible campers with the large sliding side doors which cannot be closed quietly (hence the nick-name).
This did not auger well and, as we soon discovered, was a true prediction of the state of the fee campsite. It was absolutely jammed. The only available sites were in mountain goat country. This was not going to happen!
Back to town we went only to find that the Julia Creek Caravan Park was decidedly less than appealing, decidedly less. Time for Plan B, except at this stage we didn't have a Plan B! "Let's get creative, Lizzie. What are our alternatives?"
Out came our trusty Camps 7 book, complete with all the notes Liz had entered, and after a quick leaf through the relevant pages we decided that the roadside stop at Maxwellton showed promise. So it was off again out onto the Flinders Highway and east across the dry flat plains.
A hundred kilometres later and more frustration. The Maxwellton rest area proved to be small, unshaded and right on the highway. It was ideal for a quick comfort stop (as was clearly evident when we arrived as you can see) but not for a comfortable overnight.
At least we were entertained as we now contemplated Plan C. As they do, this large flock of long billed corellas squawked and wheeled in a constant state of indecision for many minutes before finally heading out into the plains. They really are silly birds!
Notwithstanding our determination to spend time in different places on this passage across Queensland, Richmond, another 55 kms to the east, became the obvious choice. We were now well into the afternoon and driver and navigator were both feeling increasingly jaded. After our previous stay here of five days, we knew the Richmond Caravan Park and knew that we would be more than comfortable here, if we could get in at this late stage, that is...this is a very popular place on the shores of the large Lake Fred Triton.
And so it was (crowded that is), but to our great relief a quick phone call reserved us the last possible drive-thu site in the park, a patch which is normally a park roadway, but mine hosts the redoubtable Pat and John Woodgate, who had returned here to manage the park after a two year absence, are nothing if not both wonderfully welcoming and practically accommodating as well. It was good to see them, and their huge wolfhound, Murphy, again.
and there was no doubt that we had been lucky.....this park was indeed full.
and listened to what the current Richmond resident minstrel had to offer. He was a more than passable troubadour. This as a good end to what had been a trying day.
It had also been good to again catch up with the Woodgates. After they left Richmond previously they travelled extensively around the country and often wrote articles which appeared in various caravan magazines. We were more than surprised to find them back here, where they have taken a two year contract with the local Shire to manage the park. It is in good hands.
Let me give you an example. Friends, with whom we later caught up in Kurrimine Beach, stayed here en route to the coast. The park itself was full, so they were directed to the overflow camp at the local oval with the assurance that others would later join them. This did not eventuate, so John came down later to check on our friends and ensure that they felt safe and comfortable. Now that's the way to run a park!
Tomorrow would be a very easy day. We had previously planned to spend a couple of days in Hughenden, a town through which we merely passed on our last trip along the Flinders Highway. As a result of our extended travelling today this was to be a mere 115 kilometre journey.
Let me give you an example. Friends, with whom we later caught up in Kurrimine Beach, stayed here en route to the coast. The park itself was full, so they were directed to the overflow camp at the local oval with the assurance that others would later join them. This did not eventuate, so John came down later to check on our friends and ensure that they felt safe and comfortable. Now that's the way to run a park!
Tomorrow would be a very easy day. We had previously planned to spend a couple of days in Hughenden, a town through which we merely passed on our last trip along the Flinders Highway. As a result of our extended travelling today this was to be a mere 115 kilometre journey.
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