I doubt that there is a tourist information booklet about Tasmania in existence which does not espouse the beauty of the Huon Valley and the river of the same name which flows through it. For once I could not agree more.
Like the Derwent and the Tamar, the Huon River is, for many kilometres, not really a river in the general sense at all.
As this excellent map, courtesy of 'quazoo' shows, much of what is known as the 'river' is in fact a long, relatively narrow sea inlet.
It stretches in this case from the D'Entrecasteaux Channel to the town of Huonville. This is not to say that there is no fresh water river flowing down into this inlet, as we shall see in a later blog, but at Franklin, the Huon is salt water and tidal.
Now that we have that sorted, let's get on to having a good look around Franklin, which, like Geeveston, is a small town which had to reinvent itself, but for a very different reason. A spot of history might help in understanding this.
Franklin, with a current population in the order of less than 500, is named after Sir John (an early Governor...and the bloke who disappeared trying to find the North-West passage some years later) and his wife Lady Jane Franklin. The good Lady Jane was quite a woman in many respects and far ahead of her time as the early development of Franklin clearly demonstrates.
In 1838 she bought much of the land around Franklin (owned since 1836 by one John Price) in an attempt to create 'a decent yeoman class' (whatever that might be precisely). Lady Jane rented small holdings to underprivileged settlers who then initially set about growing potatoes and other vegetables and cutting timber palings and shingles. By the end of the 19th Century apple orchards had sprung up throughout the area, and Franklin was buzzing.
When Franklin was proclaimed a town in 1866, it housed the largest population in the Huon Valley and soon had all the civic infrastructure associated with a major centre....court house, school, banks, hotels, a mechanics institute and a large town hall. Until the 1930's Franklin was the major port on the Huon River. The fruit and horticulture industries were supported by shipbuilding and a vibrant retail sector. It even had its own small but efficient hydroelectric power supply, a system driven by the waters of the local creek.
And then it all fell apart for Franklin. Improved road transport saw the end of the river traffic. The town's location stymied significant development which resulted in Huonville becoming the major town in the area. And in the 70's Tasmania's export fruit industry collapsed which saw the Franklin region revert to mixed farming. The town was on its knees.
But as has happened in Geeveston, tourism has saved the day. This, an influx of those seeking a more peaceful lifestyle, and a continuing emphasis on wooden boat building, have all combined to breath new life into Franklin.
Because we remained hitched during our brief stay, we did not stray far from the main street or the river, but that was more than enough for us....we were more than happy to 'walk the town'.
Our ramble began on the path leading down past the camp (and public) facilities
before we headed up the park entrance road to the Huon Highway, the town's main street.
Here we found the town's old Court House building, converted some time ago into an eating house rather aptly named the Petty Sessions Cafe. But this venture, like much of earlier Franklin, has also run out of puff....it's on the market!
When Franklin was proclaimed a town in 1866, it housed the largest population in the Huon Valley and soon had all the civic infrastructure associated with a major centre....court house, school, banks, hotels, a mechanics institute and a large town hall. Until the 1930's Franklin was the major port on the Huon River. The fruit and horticulture industries were supported by shipbuilding and a vibrant retail sector. It even had its own small but efficient hydroelectric power supply, a system driven by the waters of the local creek.
And then it all fell apart for Franklin. Improved road transport saw the end of the river traffic. The town's location stymied significant development which resulted in Huonville becoming the major town in the area. And in the 70's Tasmania's export fruit industry collapsed which saw the Franklin region revert to mixed farming. The town was on its knees.
But as has happened in Geeveston, tourism has saved the day. This, an influx of those seeking a more peaceful lifestyle, and a continuing emphasis on wooden boat building, have all combined to breath new life into Franklin.
Because we remained hitched during our brief stay, we did not stray far from the main street or the river, but that was more than enough for us....we were more than happy to 'walk the town'.
Our ramble began on the path leading down past the camp (and public) facilities
before we headed up the park entrance road to the Huon Highway, the town's main street.
Here we found the town's old Court House building, converted some time ago into an eating house rather aptly named the Petty Sessions Cafe. But this venture, like much of earlier Franklin, has also run out of puff....it's on the market!
Directly across the road the imposing old Federal Hotel, now the Franklin Tavern (which is not a pub at all, but a restaurant) and the adjoining cafe set the scene for some sights of the Franklin of yesteryear.
The retention and maintenance of these buildings,
which speak so much to the history of the town, have played a significant part in encouraging the tourism on which Franklin is now thriving.
Apart from the old water wheel, picturesque murals add colour and a sense of the past to the stones of these walls.
The retention and maintenance of these buildings,
which speak so much to the history of the town, have played a significant part in encouraging the tourism on which Franklin is now thriving.
Apart from the old water wheel, picturesque murals add colour and a sense of the past to the stones of these walls.
One feature which sets 'tourist' towns aside from others is a proliferation of cafes and restaurants. Franklin is no exception. Right next door to the mill cafe, those wishing to tempt their taste buds with something Thai can indulge, but I noted that the owners of this establishment had hedged their bets.....the front window also advertised 'Western Food' (and a three course Xmas lunch for $60...not bad value at all).
For those not overly keen on Asian spices the modest looking Aquagrill opposite offers seafood and pizza, and gets rave reviews for both. We dined at home, but any return visit to Franklin will certainly include a meal here.
Hand in hand with eateries, are the B&B's, and here at this end of the main drag
we came across the first of them, housed as most are, in one of the town's old, charming cottages.
Cottages and colour, both natural and as a result of some deft brush work, are but two features of Franklin's main street.
Another two are 'history' and the river, and here we have both.....the old Franklin Lockup with the ribbon of river in the background.
I was somewhat relieved to read that this quaint little gaol was designed for short term use only.
Just north of the small house of miscreants, the greens of the Franklin bowls club and the edge of the town oval look out over the river and the mountain range beyond. I could not help but wonder if the beauty of the location marred the concentration of visiting competitors.
In this section of the street we came to the Post Office
which was cosied up next to this rather grand old building (about which I have to confess to a complete historical blank....embarrassing!)
As we have so often found in small towns, many businesses 'double up'. The Franklin Post office was no exception. Here posting or retrieving mail seemed but an excuse to leave laden with all manner of treats
ranging from postcards, clothing, artworks, freshly ground coffee, smallgoods and confectionery. And, of course, a hot cuppa and a bite to eat were also on offer.
And it all came with a distinct sense of humour and grace.
This was another of the posted notices which attracted my amused attention. I could only assume that Dale had a good local trade going......'Up Swamp Road' was hardly a useful direction for any visitor seeking fresh 'bumnuts'.
Still chuckling, we walked on past Franklin House, a gallery, coffee house and boutique,
beyond which the road curved away in front of another stark reminder of Franklin's former glory......the old town hall building.
This erstwhile civic centre later housed the town's Palais Theatre, but this venture too fell onto hard times. It was towards the restoration of this building that our camp fee was directed.
Unusually for us, our stay here in Franklin did not include a visit to the bar of the local pub. Frankly put, the Lady Franklin Hotel, the town's only operating hotel, held little outward appeal. In fact I was particularly disappointed that what I had initially and mistakenly taken to be the town pub, the old Federal Hotel, was no longer trading as a town tavern.
Just beyond the pub, a facet of Franklin's age and history is celebrated in this mural on the end wall of
the Billy Hill store (complete with front coffee deck) where those with a bent for all things organic (and I suspect a tad exotic as well) would find themselves well served (I hope)
whilst opposite, the simple town War Memorial stood in silent memory of those who served in another way altogether.
Just north of here, and still on the river side of the road, we strolled past the main gates of the town oval, and at this point I think it time to give all this a spot of perspective.
This aerial shot (thanks to 'Harcourts of Huon Valley') provides an excellent overview. We began today's walk from our campsite which is the green area on the banks of the Huon right at the far end of this photo. The bowling green and oval are self evident, as is the curve in the highway (there is another to come)
The old town hall can be seen quite clearly mid shot, whilst the charming old home I am about to share pictorially with you can be seen opposite the middle of the oval. The (apparent) far bank of the river here is not its eastern edge at all. At this point the Huon splits into two channels which flow either side of Egg Island, a large low island which occupies the centre of the river for some distance.
I'll have much more to say about the river itself in my next offering, but for now it is back to the main road and the charm of yet another of Franklin's old homes and its surrounding gardens.
In my historical preamble I spoke of the fact that Franklin's early status as a town of substance was evidenced in part by the fact that it was home to a Mechanics Institute, and here it is, now tucked away almost insignificantly between two town cottages.
And then we came to the building which must compete with the Palais as 'Franklin's finest'.
Now an antique shop, 'Bowmont' began life in 1904 as the Commercial Bank of Tasmania, the first banking institution on the Huon. The Commercial lads didn't last too long...in 1912 this building housed the newly arrived staff of the English, Scottish and Australian Bank which did business until the end of WW2. Subsequent to that the grand old walls of this building have provided shelter for a child welfare centre, a local hospital and an employment service respectively before the building was taken over by its present owner. When you think about it, Bowmont really reflects the ups and downs of life in Franklin over many years.
At this end of town we found the ships' chandlery and fishing store
and the local office of the Huon News.
And now I am going to skip to the far end of town to again indulge myself a little before we come back to visit one of Franklin's very popular tourist spots.
Here, on the northern approach into the main CBD, this beautiful garden does set the scene for much of what can be seen in the town, and of course
it featured my new found favourites, three rhododendrons. These really should be designated as Tasmania's State floral emblem.
For us this was the 'about turn' point. As we made our way back we passed yet another example of a fine Franklin town garden
on the approach to this relatively modest looking building. We did not need the help of the footpath advertising board to know where we were.....Frank's Cider Bar and Cafe is a Franklin institution.
Housed in what was originally the church hall, and with the old Anglican Church (under current restoration) on the hill above and the small brook running beside the front garden tables, Frank's really did present a picture.
But we were more interested in what we could find inside. The front verandah tables were empty at this time of the morning,
but there was a little more activity in the large interior dining area. Frank's is a celebration of all things cider, and more.
Photos and other memorabilia of old Franklin clutter the walls, and, almost incongruously, through the doorway at the far end of the dining area
one can browse through various exhibits related to WW1 and read the stories of locals who were involved.
The theme of local history and the story of the development of the Franklin apple and cider industries pre and post WW1 are continued on the next level of the building,
but this is where the real action can also be found. Here one can place orders for the excellent fare on offer, but we were not interested in the solid stuff.....we were here to taste cider,
which is exactly what we did. And the verdict? Suffice it to say that my knapsack was significantly heavier and clinking with more than one bottle when we left. The Cherry Pear cider was our favourite....our afternoon happy hour enjoyment was assured!
But who is Frank? Not the waitress of the day as her uniform unequivocally proclaims!
Frank Clark was of the third generation of the Clark family to farm at 'Woodside', a property established initially in 1836 by his forebear John Clark, reputed to be the first white settler in the area (John Price might have had something to say about that!). Frank planted many of the trees which produce the apples now used by the fifth and sixth generation of Clark family members in the current production of their highly rated ciders.
By now, as you might imagine, my shutter finger was screaming RSI and our legs were pleasantly weary. It was time to go home....with a few more Franklin snippets en route. More flowering shrubs (of course),
an old stone wall
and the local office of the Huon News.
And now I am going to skip to the far end of town to again indulge myself a little before we come back to visit one of Franklin's very popular tourist spots.
Here, on the northern approach into the main CBD, this beautiful garden does set the scene for much of what can be seen in the town, and of course
it featured my new found favourites, three rhododendrons. These really should be designated as Tasmania's State floral emblem.
For us this was the 'about turn' point. As we made our way back we passed yet another example of a fine Franklin town garden
on the approach to this relatively modest looking building. We did not need the help of the footpath advertising board to know where we were.....Frank's Cider Bar and Cafe is a Franklin institution.
Housed in what was originally the church hall, and with the old Anglican Church (under current restoration) on the hill above and the small brook running beside the front garden tables, Frank's really did present a picture.
But we were more interested in what we could find inside. The front verandah tables were empty at this time of the morning,
but there was a little more activity in the large interior dining area. Frank's is a celebration of all things cider, and more.
Photos and other memorabilia of old Franklin clutter the walls, and, almost incongruously, through the doorway at the far end of the dining area
one can browse through various exhibits related to WW1 and read the stories of locals who were involved.
The theme of local history and the story of the development of the Franklin apple and cider industries pre and post WW1 are continued on the next level of the building,
but this is where the real action can also be found. Here one can place orders for the excellent fare on offer, but we were not interested in the solid stuff.....we were here to taste cider,
which is exactly what we did. And the verdict? Suffice it to say that my knapsack was significantly heavier and clinking with more than one bottle when we left. The Cherry Pear cider was our favourite....our afternoon happy hour enjoyment was assured!
But who is Frank? Not the waitress of the day as her uniform unequivocally proclaims!
Frank Clark was of the third generation of the Clark family to farm at 'Woodside', a property established initially in 1836 by his forebear John Clark, reputed to be the first white settler in the area (John Price might have had something to say about that!). Frank planted many of the trees which produce the apples now used by the fifth and sixth generation of Clark family members in the current production of their highly rated ciders.
By now, as you might imagine, my shutter finger was screaming RSI and our legs were pleasantly weary. It was time to go home....with a few more Franklin snippets en route. More flowering shrubs (of course),
an old stone wall
and this wooden boat, reminders of Franklin's past and present.
History, cafes, restaurants, B&B accommodation, beautiful gardens, cider and charm, all in one street. And a picturesque and cheap campsite with good facilities to boot. What's not to love about Franklin?
And I've not yet visited what, for me, was Franklin's greatest attraction.....the Huon River.
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