STILL GORGING! - ROSEVEARS - PART 4 (THE CATARACT GORGE RESERVE) (21 DECEMBER 2017)

Well, now that we had seen the gorge by boat it was time to complete the package with a visit to the famous Cataract Gorge Reserve. I had been there once before, in 1968, during a visit to Tassie for the Australian Surf Lifesaving Championships.....at about midnight and not alone....but that's another story altogether. I did wonder what it would look like now, in daylight and through completely sober eyes.

But before we visited the reserve we decided to drive around above the South Esk River valley in an attempt to spot the Duck Reach Power station and suspension bridge. Liz had been there once before many years ago. There is a walking trail to what is now a museum on the site, but that was completely beyond her at the moment, so an elevated view by road presented another viewing option.

Why all the fuss I hear you ask. Well, the Duck Reach power station has a history which is intricately entwined with that of Launceston. It also has a 'stand alone' claim to fame (one which by now we had learnt was typically Tasmanian.....the first of something!)

In short, the facility here at Duck Reach was the first publicly owned hydro-electric power station in the Southern Hemisphere. Its turbine whirled away to provide power for the good folk of Lonnie from the time it was built in 1895 until it was shut down in 1955, and this despite the fact that it was wiped out in the catastrophic floods on the South Esk in 1929 (and obviously subsequently rebuilt).

In 1956, a year after its closure, a suggestion was made that the Duck Reach power station should be converted to a museum and the suspension bridge restored as a tourist attraction. Well, what a good idea that was, and it was acted on.....but not until 1995....the wheels of power (!) grind on slowly in Launceston!

And so it was that I parked the Cruiser (somewhat perilously exposed on this winding narrow road) and hoofed off along the dirt track beyond the sign which told me that the Denison Road scenic lookout was but 100 metres distant.

Whoever bestowed the title 'lookout' on the rough rocky perch I came to, where any good views had long been obscured by the ever encroaching scrub, must have had an bleak sense of humour. But there was a glimpse of the river below through the foliage and exercising the principle of 'nil desperandum' I decided to slide down the hillside to a spot nearer the road.

From here I did manage a view of sorts along the river valley below, and caught a glimpse of the suspension bridge which spans the river near Duck Reach, but I remained unsatisfied. 

After another scramble through the roadside bush I finally managed a close-up shot of the old power station and the bridge, 













and one of the old workers' accommodation building on the opposite bank.

Still not entirely happy, I could not help but undertake a trawl through the Internet, and was rewarded with this wonderful shot of the power station building, the pipes behind it which delivered the water to the turbine, and the suspension bridge. Thank you 'bushtreks'.






With Duck Reach done it was back on the road and down the hill to the entrance to the Reserve car park. This short trip gave us yet another reminder of the fact that much of this side of the Launceston suburbs sits high on the slopes of the western bank of the Tamar.









Ah, the car parks of a venue popular with both locals and tourists......what fun they are (unless you arrive at first light), but after a few turns around the block,











we finally managed to squeeze the Cruiser in under the trees (that's us just beyond the white mini-bus).











We took off rejoicing along the nearby path into the reserve precinct.












This walkway, high above the reserve grounds, 












took us initially to this strikingly framed observation deck and the information boards it contained,













including, of course, a plan of the grounds below and the walks, attractions and facilities on offer, which were extensive.











Before we made our way down to the lower level, we did toddle along the continuation of the upper path which promised access to Kings Bridge. That sounded like a good idea, but not for long.






When we reached this junction, apart from the challengingly rustic nature of the paths from that point on, the sign pointing off to the bridge trail carried the notation that this was steep and for experienced hikers only. "Plan 'B', Lizzie"!









Which was, of course, to retrace our steps and make our way down to the park, but not before pausing briefly at the top of the 'inclinator' (more of this shortly) for the wonderful outlook over the lawns, swimming pool and distant pedestrian bridge of this charming public reserve. 








A sort distance further along provided us with a view of the park office and information centre and the roof of the chairlift station both surrounded by beautiful lawns, gardens and trees.

We duly wandered down the wide steps to the park below, 













past one of the many well tended garden beds













and the shrub covered terraces beyond, 












until we found ourselves looking back towards the information centre and the chair lift building, but now at ground level.












It was in the information centre that I discovered the photos and video of the South Esk in flood (one shot of which I have already shared with you). What a far cry this was

from the bridge we were looking at today, and if that seemed scary, 












look at this one!  A river not to be trifled with when aroused is the South Esk!

In fact the massive 'one in a hundred years' flood of 1929 saw this normally placid and picturesque stream wash away or damage over two thousand Launceston homes and force the evacuation of four and a half thousand residents. 

The South Esk’s waters thundered down at such a height and velocity that the two suspension bridges at the Cataract Gorge were swept away and the rush of water was so fierce that four tonne rocks were shunted from the river bed out into the Tamar basin near the yacht club. Wow!





We were more than pleased to be here on a day when all was serene at the Cataract Gorge Reserve, where the proclaimed attributes of the chair lift










were being put to the test by many of those visiting, initially queueing for tickets 















before floating away across the lawns and playgrounds of the park in gently swaying aerial gondolas












from which they could admire the view of the swimming pool and bridge beyond.







Apart from the many walking trails and paths which surround this magnificent reserve, those who prefer to take a dip in the pool or merely lounge about enjoying a picnic lunch are well catered for with changing sheds and public BBQs. And for those who have no inclination to self-cater but wish to eat, a large cafe sees to their needs.



What an absolutely delightful place this is, one which is rightly vaunted as one of Launceston's premier attractions.

And for us, as we prepared to leave, it got even better in the shape of the 'Inclinator', a lift with a difference, where an enclosed cabin climbs to the top pathway up a steeply inclined track. With Liz still gasping, this was a boon indeed, apart from its novelty value!











And the invalid was hot to trot,















ushering your scribe though the entrance door with less than gentle encouragement

and taking control of our self-driven ascent.















Once we had alighted at the top, a press of a button sent our wonderful carriage back to the bottom to await the next punters. As well as providing for those such as us who did not want to climb the stairs, any arriving at the upper level could summons a trip to the park below with a push of another call button. 





What a hoot this had been. It provided a fine and different end to what had been a great morning's sightseeing......and I'm still staying stum about my previous midnight visit!!