Monday, 26 November 2018

TOURIST CENTRAL - STANLEY - PART 4 (THE TOWN - PART 2) (5 - 11 FEBRUARY 2018)

Cafes, restaurants, art galleries, B&B accommodation, many housed in old Stanley homes. This town is without a doubt a tourist mecca, particularly on the weekends when folk flock in individually or in sometimes quite large organised groups.


To date our stroll through 'old Stanley' has brought us to the end of Alexander Terrace where it joins Church Street just above the junction of that and Victoria Street. Not only does the statue of the soldier look down along Victoria Street, he also gazes across the junction to one of two of the larger buildings here in 'CBD central', the Stanley Hotel.


Looking back up at the eastern side of Church Street from Victoria Street, this group of buildings opposite the hotel form what is another of the most photographed sections of the town (from all sorts of angles.......I'll soon be equally guilty!)







But before we move on further north along Church Street and beyond, let me do a quick about turn at this junction.











Apart from the Post Office (the red and white sign), all the buildings along this southern section of Church Street below Alexander Terrace are completely tourist orientated.  Here we found a large art gallery, cafes and restaurants, 















one of the most popular of which is Moby Dicks. 









Apart from its odd name, which may be a reflection on the fact that in the earliest days of the settlement of this town, when whalers operated briefly out of the port of Stanley, this is a cafe with a difference.....it specialises in breakfasts. 

And unlike the relatively recent phenomenon of 'All Day Breakfasts' served at many establishments, any who darken this door after 1100 hours to enjoy the delights on offer will be sadly disappointed. It will be closed. Apart from the short operating hours, this cafe is also closed throughout the winter months. They are obviously doing something right at Moby Dicks. We did not indulge, but did note in passing that it was always well patronised.







Needless to say, parking along the narrow confines of this very popular part of town can often be somewhat challenging,









even more so when some of the groups I referred to earlier hit town over the weekend, such as this lot from a Holden Car Club. We'll leave them to mill about in indecision,  




and make our way back to the northern end of Church Street, where I have indulged myself in another shot of the group of colourful old cottages at the end of Alexander Terrace, now home to the town pharmacy, an antiques shop and a couple of cafes. 







A short distance further along the street, the grand facade and bulk of the old town hall speaks of days gone by when Stanley was the pre-eminent town in the region. Of course, as we saw earlier, the seat of local government is now located in nearby Smithton.







Right next door to the town hall, this colourfully decorated building attracted my attention for more than that reason alone. Advertisements in the front windows told of tastings of Tasmanian single malts and a significant range of them at that.




Needless to say I made an immediate sharp turn to the right was off at a gallop........and out again equally rapidly. I had not brought my cheque book!  The immaculately dressed and coiffured 'lady of the house' seemed somewhat nonplussed that I was not prepared to pay an initial tasting price of $50, and that was just the opening round. She clearly had not taken into account the fact that I was not wearing boutique apparel, RM Williams boots, and had not arrived in a Mercedes!



Ah, well, on we marched, slightly less informed about Tassie whisky, but with the Treasurer by my side at peace with the world. The next premises here on Church Street to extend its siren call was an equally well restored and maintained Stanley weatherboard, complete with dormer windows, almost a town architectural signature. 


Providore 24 is an up-market food store offering an extensive range of fine Tasmania foods. Gift baskets and picnic hampers are a store speciality, as it fresh bread baked daily. And I have to say it is a magnificent shop. We did decline the offer of a gift basket (range $110 - $55) or a personal food hamper (priced according to contents) but did depart clutching a warm, newly baked loaf (which was decidedly up to scratch).



And speaking of bread, these much more modest buildings on the other side of Church Street are home to the Stanley bakery and another of Stanley's restaurants, the highly regarded Xanders.









Just north of these, we came across yet another three Stanley buildings with history, the first of which was Touchwood Cottage, (circa 1842) an old bluestone, now home to a gallery and gift shop (with a cafe at the rear, of course!).









Immediately next door, the original Plough Inn is now a private home,  
















but what stories these walls could tell!
it any occasion










The Parish hall of the church next door (with apologies for the intrusive sunlight in this shot) is now home to the Stanley Discovery Museum, unfortunately shut at the time we were wandering by.









By now we had almost reached the northern end of Church Street (here seen looking back along the route we had taken), at the point where it intersects with Marshall Street.







Here we came across another of Stanley's early watering holes, this time the long, low Commercial Hotel. Sadly the original stone walls of this 1842 pub have been painted over,








but they remain exposed in the walls of the shed at the rear of the main building. Why would anyone think that covering these grand old stone walls with paint gives them more appeal is beyond me.








As we strolled down Marshall Street towards the water and the prominent grave stones of the old Stanley cemetery, 











we passed the aptly named 'Star of the Sea' church on the northern side of the road, a place of worship which, having been built in 1931, is a real 'newcomer to town'.








Opposite the church, 'Abbey's Cottage', where its weatherboard walls were put together in 1870, is another old building which has been lovingly maintained, and, like so many of its counterparts, is now used as a fine B&B where those on the upper floor have grand views out over Godfreys Beach.




A similar vista is available to any who visit the expansive Stanley cemetery, but of course the permanent residents here are well beyond caring! What a piece of real estate this graveyard occupies, nestled under the lee of the Nut,










and looking north right along the sands of Godfreys Beach to historic Highfield House on the distant peninsula.













In addition to a good car park and public amenities, the grassy open ground above the beach is now home to the results of the Stanley Anzac Centenary Project,











where, on the seaward side of this wall,












the names of the 86 local lads who went off to fight in the Great War and who paid the ultimate personal price, are now remembered with their details etched into the terra cotta tiles beneath the wall.







It was here at Godfreys Beach we were reminded that not all in Stanley creaks with age or reeks of history. Those lucky enough to occupy this modern beach house would be treated to delightful sea views out across the beach to Bass Strait beyond. 










And finally, one more snippet of history, this time to be found in nearby Pearse Street, where the old State Schoolhouse, circa 1866, presents yet another classic example of the Stanley stone and timber style of building.








And what's a State School without at least one favourite son, I ask?









That about wraps up our Stanley town tour. I do have a few more odds and ends to share, but that will have to wait. Indeed we have a bit more to do here before moving on. Apart from the obligatory visit to Highfield House, we spent one morning making a quick dash down the coast to nearby Wynyard, passing Port Latta en route, so there is more to come.

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