New Norfolk is anything but 'new'. In fact it was established in 1807, to become the third oldest settlement (after Hobart Town and Launceston) in the fledgling colony of Van Dieman's Land when a group of just over 150 souls descended on this beautiful section of the Derwent Valley some 30 kilometres north-west of Hobart Town. Theirs was an interesting story, and serves to explain the name given to their new place of residence.
All who first arrived here did not do so completely willingly. They were in fact twice replaced immigrants who had begun their live in the Antipodes as residents of the infamous penal settlement on Norfolk Island.
When the decision to close that wretched place was taken, over 500 'Norfolk Islanders', many of whom were from farming backgrounds (some of whom also carried the distinction of having been 'First Fleeters'), were persuaded to relocate to Van Dieman's Land with incentives of land grants and the promise of convict labour to help establish farms.
Many of the promises made to these folk were a bit of a con (most recognised this and made alternate deals with the Government), but after a shaky start, which included the need to supply these hardy souls with rations from the Government stores until 1812, those who settled on the northern bank of the Derwent at what was originally known as 'The Hills' between November 1807 and October 1808 eventually carved out successful lives for themselves.
As for the name.........well it had a few conniptions as well.
In 1811 Governor Macquarie decided that the new township should carry the name 'Elizabeth Town' in honour of his wife. He even went so far as to argue that it should become the capital of the colony of Van Diemen's Land, a suggestion which was knocked very firmly on the head by the Colonial Secretary in London.
The name bestowed by Macquarie was anything but popular with those who had relocated here and although it was used off and on until 1825, the will of the locals prevailed and the town was eventually renamed New Norfolk in recognition of their original island home.
So you can see that the claims made that New Norfolk has a real place in Tasmanian history are absolutely true and as you can probably imagine, much is made of the many original buildings which still stand around the town. Nearly thirty are listed in the Historical Walk brochure, with another half a dozen dotted in the surrounding countryside, but relax dear readers, there is no need for a large intake of breath, I plan to present but an indicative offering.
But first.........
I mentioned in my first NN blog that the history of this place is matched by its scenic beauty. Let me begin our trip around the town with a quick run to nearby Pulpit Rock lookout which we accessed via a narrow dirt road which runs off the highway on the northern side of the Derwent.
When the decision to close that wretched place was taken, over 500 'Norfolk Islanders', many of whom were from farming backgrounds (some of whom also carried the distinction of having been 'First Fleeters'), were persuaded to relocate to Van Dieman's Land with incentives of land grants and the promise of convict labour to help establish farms.
Many of the promises made to these folk were a bit of a con (most recognised this and made alternate deals with the Government), but after a shaky start, which included the need to supply these hardy souls with rations from the Government stores until 1812, those who settled on the northern bank of the Derwent at what was originally known as 'The Hills' between November 1807 and October 1808 eventually carved out successful lives for themselves.
As for the name.........well it had a few conniptions as well.
In 1811 Governor Macquarie decided that the new township should carry the name 'Elizabeth Town' in honour of his wife. He even went so far as to argue that it should become the capital of the colony of Van Diemen's Land, a suggestion which was knocked very firmly on the head by the Colonial Secretary in London.
The name bestowed by Macquarie was anything but popular with those who had relocated here and although it was used off and on until 1825, the will of the locals prevailed and the town was eventually renamed New Norfolk in recognition of their original island home.
So you can see that the claims made that New Norfolk has a real place in Tasmanian history are absolutely true and as you can probably imagine, much is made of the many original buildings which still stand around the town. Nearly thirty are listed in the Historical Walk brochure, with another half a dozen dotted in the surrounding countryside, but relax dear readers, there is no need for a large intake of breath, I plan to present but an indicative offering.
But first.........
I mentioned in my first NN blog that the history of this place is matched by its scenic beauty. Let me begin our trip around the town with a quick run to nearby Pulpit Rock lookout which we accessed via a narrow dirt road which runs off the highway on the northern side of the Derwent.
The challenge presented by the access road was more than matched by the result.
From the heights of Pulpit Rock we could gaze upstream over the main township nestled on the hills either side of the river valley
and could clearly make our caravan park on the southern bank. From here our domestic surroundings looked even more charming than they did at ground level.
Just south of the town, the course of the River Derwent takes a sharp bend, and you may be able to just make out the brown line of the walking track on the far bank which took us on fine riparian ramble some days later.
The view of the river downstream of this bend is dominated by complete contrasts......the flat farming lands to the south
and the massive sheer granite cliffs towering above the highway which snakes its way right along the northern bank. This really was visually impressive to say the very least.
This incredible vantage point also provided close up views into various sections of this pretty, leafy town
where many of its older buildings rub shoulder with their surrounding newcomers,
and across the river where, in one of the newer sections of town, these replica oast houses were built to celebrate another important facet of NN's history (I'll have more to say about the hops industry here later).
What a spectacularly pretty place this is, even more so during the autumn when the many poplar and other deciduous species of trees planted here stand bright golden in the light of the setting sun (as this shot courtesy of 'worldholidaydestinations' amply demonstrates)
Needless to say, in the five days we initially spent here, the camera shutter ran red hot, but as I promised earlier, I have edited ruthlessly. Let's begin with a selection from the area of town nearest our park and what better way to start than with a pub.
But not just any pub I should add. The Bush Inn which stands on Montague Street (which is really the continuation of the Lyell Highway through the town)
has a serious claim to fame which is proudly proclaimed on its shingle. Work did actually begin on this pub in 1815, but it was not officially licensed until 1825 to the redoubtable Anne Bridger. Now this was not the first pub to be licensed in the country by any means, but it retains the claim to be the oldest in the Commonwealth to have remained continually licensed. I rather suspect that if this were not true a somewhat sharpish scrap would have ensued well before now, so I was happy to take this on face value.
In what I found to be an interesting twist, the name 'bush' has nothing to do with the Inn's location......it takes its name from the bloke who built it, Charles Bush, and has hosted such luminaries as the composer William Wallace and the diva Dame Nellie Melba.
I would like to be able to truthfully claim that it was only the tug of history which took us inside, but you would know that to be only partly true. The licence continues, beer is still pulled at the bars and tripping about is thirsty work.
And what quaint bars they were, as indeed was the entire pub.
I have no way of knowing what the upper floor bedrooms were like, but throughout the lower section rooms ran off in all directions. Old pieces of furniture and banks of wall photos abounded. The polished floors were all uneven and creaked with most steps.
The large dining room did boast relatively modern furniture,
as well as an old piano (of course).
Other rooms through which one progressed to reach the dining area rather defied description where the charming antique fireplace and old leather lounge chairs shared the space with a TV and a fridge (again, of course!) I just loved the place.
The back deck did present a concession to the need for some modern facilities
and why not....the views from here down over the town swimming pool and across the river below were marvellous.
And whilst on the subject of inns and this part of town, on Montague Crescent, which runs down the slope below the main highway (NN is nothing if not hilly)
we came across the charming buildings of the Old Colony Inn,
here showing its distinctive Tudor style (as we looked up the hill into the sun...sorry!)
The back deck did present a concession to the need for some modern facilities
and why not....the views from here down over the town swimming pool and across the river below were marvellous.
And whilst on the subject of inns and this part of town, on Montague Crescent, which runs down the slope below the main highway (NN is nothing if not hilly)
we came across the charming buildings of the Old Colony Inn,
here showing its distinctive Tudor style (as we looked up the hill into the sun...sorry!)
and beautiful gardens which linked the two sections of the premises. Built in 1835 this is now home to a very well regarded B&B where guests can not only lay their weary heads
but can dine in this delightful setting (photo thanks to the Inn's website) or view the owner's collection of memorabilia and bric-a-brac which is know Australia wide.
One of the standout old buildings in this part of town has to be Woodbridge, to be found, oddly enough, in Bridge Street, which equally oddly is no longer the street which takes one over the river here. Increasing traffic demands saw the construction of a new bridge quite nearby, but this is now accessed via either the Lyell Highway or Blair Street.
But back to Woodbridge. For some reason I cannot now fathom, I failed to take a photo of this beautiful old building, which was built in 1825 by one Thomas Roadknight, the then Chief Constable at NN (if a copper....even the boss.....built and lived in a home like this these days questions would undoubtedly be asked!!)
Let's now move away from the river to what was once the central town meeting place, the old village green, now christened Arthur Square.
In the days of yore this was actually commissioned during the official planning as the 'village green', and was known as Georges Square until 1863 when the Crown gifted this public space to the local authorities and it was given its present name.
This green an open town space was the venue for all manner of activities, ranging from militia drills to cricket matches and an annual highlight in May, a huge town bonfire (no idea why!)
Today it remains green and open, with rose gardens
and a flower lined central pathway which leads to
a most unusual central feature.
This rather odd looking mound functions from time to time as a fountain, so we believe, but it was certainly dry at the time of our visit.
A public loo on one side of the square, complete with pretty murals, did not come as a real surprise
but this odd looking wall near the High Street side of the square certainly did.
Then I spotted some brass lettering high on the face.......well at least the purpose was now clear even if there was a decided paucity of local recipients.
The opposite side was devoted to 'Early Settlers' and at least here there were some plaques, but not many, and it did occur to me that there was precious little that could be done about that. I rather suspect this wall remains a 'work in progress'!
Folks, I'm going to have to conclude this historical tour at this point.....the gremlins have gotten into the system and I cannot upload any more photos and align the text (I think I know what the problem is, but can't actually fix it, so I'm taking the easy option and baling out!)
Stay tuned for the second part of our history tour of New Norfolk, the CBD, a Xmas pageant (and more!). This may be a while in coming....in real time we are about to head into the wilds of the north-east mountains where we do not expect to have comz for several days.
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