As we left Port Augusta we both felt that this really was the start of the trip to the West, where, all things being equal, we plan to spend the next year.
The morning of our departure was slightly overcast but calm as we made our way south-west down the Lincoln Highway
past the barren hills opposite the Cultana Military Reserve and the now defunct Baxter detention centre to the junction of the Eyre Highway at Lincoln Gap. Here, as we turned even more westerly, we knew we were finally really on the way. And even although I had done this drive with Stu a number of years ago, and had worked on the West Coast in various roles over the past ten years or so, we both felt that new vistas beckoned and that we were on the cusp of a whole new adventure.
I am sure I have banged on before about what a boon I consider it to be that at my age I can still face situations which engender a real sense of excitement and enthusiasm..this was certainly one of those moments.
Enough of the naval gazing, let's get on with the job. The scarred outline of Iron Knob and the township of the same name nestled at its base, were soon in view. We had read that the mining activity at the Knob, which ceased some time ago, has been reactivated. There was certainly a deal of activity obvious as we passed the lower levels of the mine site.
The topography of Upper Eyre Peninsula is a real mix. From the somewhat desolate iron ore country of Iron Knob and Iron Barron, we drove on through many kilometres of typical limestone scrub country
until, at last, the grain growing and grazing plains of the Kimba district opened before us.
Kimba is typical of the smallish towns which are dotted along the Eyre Highway. All are local service hubs for the many broad acre farming families who face the constant seasonal challenges of this part of the world, where the success or otherwise of an entire year's work can hinge on a few millimetres of rain. No such concerns this season....the crops looked wonderful and the density of the hay rolls in the many cut paddocks we passed indicated that the cockies of upper EP would be able to put a real dent in their overdrafts this season. I hope so. They lead a tough and uncompromising life.
Not only is Kimba a service hub, it boasts the Big Galah, which is even noted on the Hema maps as a 'photo opportunity'. I had seen all this before when engaged on an insurance investigation job here some time ago, but it was good to see it again as a retiree.
I'm still not sure about the sign on the roadhouse. Halfway from where to where....presumably from Sydney to Perth. For those of us who have travelled nearly 4,000 kms to reach the Big Galah from our starting point in Cooktown, we felt entitled to feel a twinge of superiority!
Though Kimba and the expanses of cropping paddocks we drove. By this time the winds were somewhat on the nose (in more ways than one) and we were keen to reach Kyancutta where we would swing to the north-west and gain some highly desirable wind assistance.
This was a welcome sign indeed.
The rig picked up its skirts with the following wind as we ventured further and further north-west, though Wudinna, Pygery, Yaninee and Minnipa until we reached our next turning point at Poochera were we turned our head to the coast for the final run of 60 kms to the well known west coast town of Streaky Bay. And like most towns on the peninsula, grain silos are usually the first sign that the town is nor far away.
Within no time we were taking in our first views of the bay, the jetty and the caravan park
lying along the shoreline in the distance. Somehow we both knew we were going to really enjoy Streaky Bay, and so it was.
The caravan park here is big, so much so that it is divided into two sections and occupies a prime position at the western end of the bay. 'Absolute beachfront' has always been a big selling point for park sites. Why we are not sure....they are the sites which always bear the brunt of any blow. But flock to them they do. At Streaky Bay they are actually listed on the park plan as 'prime sites' and are invariably 'cheek by jowl' territory. Streaky Bay was no exception.
Not for us. We were much more comfortable with the elbow room and convenience of the large drive-through site we had requested.
As for sea views....what is wrong with our outlook we ask? The only drawback with our site
was the state of the ground....rock hard compacted shell grit and gravel. Even my trusty drill and masonry bit could not penetrate beyond a few centimetres below the surface in a couple of spots. I was pleased we did not need the shade of the awning....pegging in the tie down security ropes would have been a challenge.
As I mentioned previously, this is a large park. The excellent amenities blocks and BBQ areas are dotted throughout for the convenience of all. And for those who cannot face the thought of preparing a lunch time or evening meal, the licensed park restaurant provides a wide range of sit down or take away meals, many of which feature seafood, strangely enough. We didn't actually indulge but did hear from others that the standard is pleasingly high.
After a good look at the weather predictions, we very happily decided on a three night stopover in Streaky Bay. This was a good decision....we fell in love with the place. More on Streaky and its surrounds in the next episode.
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