TENNANT CREEK - ALICE SPRINGS (15 - 16 SEPTEMBER 2013)

With our mission completed at Tennant Creek ,and a pretty good look around under our belts, it was time for the big push south.  We had booked the van into our Port Clinton dealer for its 10,000 kms service on Tuesday 24th.  We did factor in a 2-3 night stay in Alice Springs, but apart from that it was to be one night stands from here on.

 

In keeping with this, and allowing for the fact that we intend to travel 'The Track' in a far more leisurely fashion in the future (and the fact that I'm days behind with this blog), it is highlights only from here to Adelaide (although I shall include our camp sites for those who are keeping notes)

 

We hooked up the evening before we left Tennant Creek, which always makes for a good early start.  Our initial plan was an overnight at Barrow Creek, but our first objective was a quick peek at that iconic Australian outback landmark, 'The Marbles', just off the Stuart Highway some 100 kms south of Tennant Creek.  All the blurb advocates a sunrise or sunset viewing, but we had to take what was on offer...and what we saw was certainly enough to prompt us to plan an overnight stay here in the future.

 

We did not go into the actual camp ground, but did a quick spin in and out along the entrance and exit road which did give us a good look at a few groups of these incredible rocks. 

 

The 'marbles' are actually the result of an upsurge of molten rock which formed  under a layer of sandstone.  As the granite cooled, vertical and horizontal fractures initially resulted in rectangular blocks of stone.  Weathering and the effects of infiltrating water gradually broke down the granite and sandstone to leave the extraordinarily rounded granite boulders we see today. 

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Whilst we did not have the pleasure of seeing these rocks glowing red in the light of sunset, we thought the view we had back over the area as we left was pretty special.

 

An overnight stay at The Marbles is now firmly in place on the 'bucket list'.

 

 

 

 

 

A little further down the track it was fascinating to see an unexpected rise in the roadway...not a range of hills in sight....what is going on?  A railway crossing, of course.  It was an odd experience for us both to be travelling over the line on which we had traversed the country two years ago as passengers on the legendary 'Ghan' (and what a trip that was as we made our way to Darwin for a UN Forces reunion!)   Did I say 'not a hill in sight'?

 

 

 

 

 

But the country did change as we approached our planned overnight destination of Barrow Creek.  Barrow Creek, a name which, sadly like the towns of Snowtown and Truro will long be associated with the crime of murder.  I have to admit to being gripped with a somewhat eerie fascination as we approached this tiny outpost.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We first passed the remains of the Barrow Creek telegraph station, which was somewhat different to that at Tennant Creek, but there were some similarities in layout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then, the Barrow Creek Roadhouse....an overnight stay?  The navigator was quite firm.  On we went.

 

In fact, it was at this point that I decided that we would make a day of it.  The winds were fair (this can be as important on these roads as at sea), the road surface was great and I was feeling pretty chipper after our first 250 kms or so.  A phone call later and we were booked into the Alice Springs Heritage Caravan Park a day early.

 

 

 

Our next roadside target was Ti Tree, another in the string of roadhouses/caravan parks which are dotted along the track.  Along this section of the highway the vast flat land gave way to gently undulating country.  The 90 kms to Ti Tree passed surprisingly quickly.

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

The roadhouse here was a totally different proposition to Barrow Creek, as was the associated caravan park, motel and cabins complex.  We decided we could happily spend a night here in the future, although the price we paid for a sandwich left us with no doubt that we would not be venturing forth for a meal.

 

 

 

Onwards, ever onwards, next past the (what we now know to be) extraordinary little town of Aileron.  Set back from the road, the township sits at the base of a hill on which huge metal figures have been set to overlook the town and the highway.  A thriving local arts community and what appeared to be a very well managed and accommodating roadhouse, caravan park, bar and restaurant complex have us placing this spot on our list of potential overnight stops on our return visit to this part of the world.

 

 

 

We took a quick break, and a quick snap of the marker, at the roadside stop which is sited on the Tropic of Capricorn.  I was a touch peeved that a group of selfish fellow travellers had parked their rigs right in front of the marker notwithstanding the fact that there was oodles of room to have done otherwise.   Admittedly, this is probably not rated as one of the photo opportunities of all time, but it is bloody rude nevertheless. 






Marshie took to track again, muttering!  Mind you, by this time I will admit to having become a tad weary and possibly somewhat less charitable than usual, and it was a relief to see the MacDonnell Range come into view. 

 

 

 

 

At last...after 510 kms we were almost there. This was the first haul of this length we had done since our first day out of Adelaide, and I have to confess I was feeling the pinch.





Our chosen park, which one of several situated through 'The Gap', a break in the solid range to the south of the Alice Springs CBD, was not quite what we had expected but we have learnt not to be quick to judge, especially when we are dog tired.

Once past the entrance area I chose a large site which my trusty compass decreed would give us shade during the main part of the day.






The only real drawback was that is was close to the camp kitchen and a group of less than inspiring looking neighbours who had set up camp in that area.  We were not entirely enthused, but dropped anchor nevertheless.

I managed to effect my best 'gidday mate' approach with this group and I have to say once we got to know them all a bit better the next day they weren't a bad bunch, just messy.  In fact the park owner gave them a serious spray that very morning about the state of their patch.  Things had improved out of sight within 24 hours.

This park, which apparently used to be a shambles, is under new management and they are working at improvements.  It is big, with large expanses of unpowered and camping areas, but the smaller main van section is at least grassed and has plenty of shade trees.





But the highlight is the pool.  It is magnificent.  And it is almost 20 metres long down the centre.  At last, a decent swim!

Well, at least some of us swam...others took advantage of the morning sun (I can't be too precious...so did I later!)

Fuel filter warning lights are the nightmare of outback travel.  And, yes, ours had come on about 30 kms short of 'The Alice'.  We knew from previous experience that we could safely travel the remainder of our journey, but I did make arrangements to have it replaced the following day at the local Toyota dealers.  I  took this opportunity to have a wander around the CBD whilst Liz visited the Flying Doctor Centre. 

What a difference a couple of years can make.  When we did a similar ramble during our five hour stop on the Ghan, we could not believe the number of confrontational, squabbling and generally ratbag non-reflectives we encountered, particularly in the Todd Street Mall.  No longer.  It is clear that the local authorities have been true to their broadly publicised word and have done a great deal to make Alice Springs a very much more welcoming and safe place to visit.  Even the main Todd River 'town camp' has gone.

A check of the projected weather conditions (read wind  direction and strength) and we took the decision to leave Alice Springs a day earlier than planned.  Liz paid a pre-arranged early morning visit to 'Ernie', a local soul of advancing years who has been a Memorial patient for many years, while I packed. 

Let me now give the Heritage Park management a huge pat on the back.  Notwithstanding our late decision to move early, and our subsequent late departure (1130 hours) they gave us a full refund for the day.  This is unheard of in our experience.  Full marks to them.

So it was off to the Desert Oaks resort on the junction of the Stuart and Lassiter Highways, a mere doddle (compared to our previous leg) of exactly 200 kms for our next overnight.