Despite our interesting introduction to the social mores of Fitzroy Crossing, I have to report that this was the only sour note of our four day stay (and a minor one at that), but once we were out and about there was no doubt that we were guests in an indigenous township. In the course of a later guided tour through the town and on to the stunning Gieke Gorge, we learnt that there have been real improvements in the general fabric of life here over the past few years.
The ratio of black to white in the town population of approximately 1,000 is about 60/40 whilst a further 2,000 indigenous folk live in some 50 communities in the nearby area.
The ratio of black to white in the town population of approximately 1,000 is about 60/40 whilst a further 2,000 indigenous folk live in some 50 communities in the nearby area.
I have no wish to bang on about the problems which have beset this community for years.....this is all on the public record, but a brief explanation is in order to put my previous whinge in context.
National attention was focused on the town in February 2008, when the WA coroner described the living conditions for the Aboriginal inhabitants as "a national disaster with no disaster response". He also noted that there was a lack of a co-ordinated government response. Fortunately local leaders swung into action with a push for alcohol bans. The results to date have been positive. Since then there has been a reported:
National attention was focused on the town in February 2008, when the WA coroner described the living conditions for the Aboriginal inhabitants as "a national disaster with no disaster response". He also noted that there was a lack of a co-ordinated government response. Fortunately local leaders swung into action with a push for alcohol bans. The results to date have been positive. Since then there has been a reported:
- 50 per cent fall in the number of people seeking treatment at the Fitzroy Crossing Emergency Department.
- 27 per cent reduction in alcohol-related domestic violence, and
- 14 per cent increase in high school attendance.
Increased Government social services support has been provided and, from what we were told and could see for ourselves, the quality of life for the Aboriginal population of Fitzroy Crossing is on the improve.
So let's see where all this took place. As you have read, this is not a big town but it sits by a very big river.
So let's see where all this took place. As you have read, this is not a big town but it sits by a very big river.
With thanks to 'kimberleymedia.photoshelter' for this aerial, this is Fitzroy Crossing, with the main highway off to the right and the river in the background. The town oval stands out clearly at the bottom of the street on which most of the town's service buildings can be found.
The Fitzroy Crossing visitor and information centre is strategically positioned at the junction of the Great Northern Highway and the road into the town itself. Oddly, though, the opening hours of this place were spasmodic and, of all things, did not include the weekends (??), well at least whilst we were there. At this end of town the green lawns of the parks are a welcome sight.
This is dry country, unless the mighty Fitzroy is in flood when things look vastly different. (with acknowledgement to 'wanowandthen') I'll have more to say about the river later.
I must say I would love to seen this country during the wet. I am sure some of the sights would be absolutely spectacular, but of course the downside is that we could be stranded for indefinite periods at very short notice.....we shall see.
For now, in the dry, access was unrestricted. The road into the 'CBD'
took me past the wonderfully named 'Ghost Gums Emporium'. According to the shopfront sign this is "Your Clothing, Footwear, Camping and Electrical Specialists". We were fully equipped in all these areas and accordingly I cannot offer an opinion as to the range or quality of goods available, but I did love the name.....when did you last visit an 'emporium'?
On the opposite side of the road is the real centre of commercial action and much of the local service provision.
This is a genuine local 'one stop shop'
where the clean central arcade allows access to the supermarket, post office and and takeaway. Not knowing quite what to expect, we had stocked up to the hilt before leaving Derby, but I have to say the Fitzroy Crossing IGA stocked all we might have needed at comparatively reasonable prices.
The government offices are lined up along the other side of the arcade entrance. This modern building and the services to be had here did demonstrate, to me at least, that a real effort is being made to improve the lot of all who inhabit the town and its surrounds.
The arcade notice board did nothing to diminish this impression. Here all manner of medical specialist clinics were advertised. A close look left no doubt as to the target audience. All the notices carry explanatory subheadings, including The Dietitian Clinic notice which describes this practitioner as "The Strong Tucker Lady". Now nothing could be clearer than that.
And this was not the only notice where the local vernacular came to the fore. This accommodation offer might seem somewhat intimidating to those who are unaware that, in indigenous slang, 'deadly' actually translates as 'highly desirable'.
Immediately adjacent to the shopping centre car park is the second town caravan park. We had been warned off this as the place to stay in Fitzroy Crossing for reasons I'll not go into further. Suffice it to say that we ran into two couples who had spent their first night here but moved on out to the Lodge first thing the following morning. I guess that speaks for itself!
A short distance beyond the caravan park are the green expanses of the town oval, where,
on the Saturday afternoon, I had the privilege of watching one of the best exhibitions of Aussie Rules football I had ever witnessed.
During a quick shopping sortie that morning we had noticed the arrival in town of a group of battered land cruisers all loaded to the gunnels with eager young folk in varying states of excitement. As I watched them stream through the IGA isles grabbing large bottles of water and fruit juice I guessed this had to be a visiting footy team. A quick question confirmed my suspicions....and I was even told who to barrack for!
So at 1300 hours I presented at the oval where these two teams of spring heeled jacks gave a football clinic. Blinding speed, incredible agility, high marking, long and accurate kicking, sure ball handling and a couple of good old fashioned biffs with a quick handshake immediately afterwards.....this was as good as I had seen. The only concession to the 35 degree heat was a limit of 15 minutes per quarter. This was just as well. I was exhausted watching. What a great hour and a half this was.
Not far from the oval was more evidence of the effort being put into Fitzroy Crossing improvements. The new Court House was going up
right next to the existing modern police station complex.
This latest addition to the local infrastructure even included a fine piece of art, metal stylised boabs.....impressive stuff.
Whilst I was admiring this initiative and silently applauding the fact that the budget for this building had extended to including this non-functional addition, I was greeted by another sight which is typical of the town. Black kites live here in their thousands, constantly whirling and swooping on the thermal currents rising up off the roadways.
The SES,
new health centre
and the town hospital are all to be found nearby along this street
which soon ends with a typical Fitzroy Crossing outlook beyond the edge of town.
There is a real variation in the style and standard of housing in Fitzroy Crossing, yet another reflection of what is happening here. These typical older houses
are being replaced by much more modern additions
and I was more than surprised to learn that these new two storey homes are owned by one of the local Aboriginal corporations which uses them to provide rental income. Things are changing rapidly in Fitzroy Crossing. It was certainly not the town I had expected to find.
But why Fitzroy Crossing? And what of the history of this most remote of townships. I was about to find out.
For now, in the dry, access was unrestricted. The road into the 'CBD'
took me past the wonderfully named 'Ghost Gums Emporium'. According to the shopfront sign this is "Your Clothing, Footwear, Camping and Electrical Specialists". We were fully equipped in all these areas and accordingly I cannot offer an opinion as to the range or quality of goods available, but I did love the name.....when did you last visit an 'emporium'?
On the opposite side of the road is the real centre of commercial action and much of the local service provision.
This is a genuine local 'one stop shop'
where the clean central arcade allows access to the supermarket, post office and and takeaway. Not knowing quite what to expect, we had stocked up to the hilt before leaving Derby, but I have to say the Fitzroy Crossing IGA stocked all we might have needed at comparatively reasonable prices.
The government offices are lined up along the other side of the arcade entrance. This modern building and the services to be had here did demonstrate, to me at least, that a real effort is being made to improve the lot of all who inhabit the town and its surrounds.
The arcade notice board did nothing to diminish this impression. Here all manner of medical specialist clinics were advertised. A close look left no doubt as to the target audience. All the notices carry explanatory subheadings, including The Dietitian Clinic notice which describes this practitioner as "The Strong Tucker Lady". Now nothing could be clearer than that.
And this was not the only notice where the local vernacular came to the fore. This accommodation offer might seem somewhat intimidating to those who are unaware that, in indigenous slang, 'deadly' actually translates as 'highly desirable'.
Immediately adjacent to the shopping centre car park is the second town caravan park. We had been warned off this as the place to stay in Fitzroy Crossing for reasons I'll not go into further. Suffice it to say that we ran into two couples who had spent their first night here but moved on out to the Lodge first thing the following morning. I guess that speaks for itself!
A short distance beyond the caravan park are the green expanses of the town oval, where,
on the Saturday afternoon, I had the privilege of watching one of the best exhibitions of Aussie Rules football I had ever witnessed.
During a quick shopping sortie that morning we had noticed the arrival in town of a group of battered land cruisers all loaded to the gunnels with eager young folk in varying states of excitement. As I watched them stream through the IGA isles grabbing large bottles of water and fruit juice I guessed this had to be a visiting footy team. A quick question confirmed my suspicions....and I was even told who to barrack for!
Not far from the oval was more evidence of the effort being put into Fitzroy Crossing improvements. The new Court House was going up
right next to the existing modern police station complex.
This latest addition to the local infrastructure even included a fine piece of art, metal stylised boabs.....impressive stuff.
Whilst I was admiring this initiative and silently applauding the fact that the budget for this building had extended to including this non-functional addition, I was greeted by another sight which is typical of the town. Black kites live here in their thousands, constantly whirling and swooping on the thermal currents rising up off the roadways.
The SES,
new health centre
and the town hospital are all to be found nearby along this street
which soon ends with a typical Fitzroy Crossing outlook beyond the edge of town.
There is a real variation in the style and standard of housing in Fitzroy Crossing, yet another reflection of what is happening here. These typical older houses
are being replaced by much more modern additions
and I was more than surprised to learn that these new two storey homes are owned by one of the local Aboriginal corporations which uses them to provide rental income. Things are changing rapidly in Fitzroy Crossing. It was certainly not the town I had expected to find.
But why Fitzroy Crossing? And what of the history of this most remote of townships. I was about to find out.
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