COFFS HARBOUR (23 SEPTEMBER)

To my embarrassment and eternal shame I must begin this blog with an admission.....I forget to photograph the 'Big Banana' whilst in Coffs Harbour.  On the basis of the fact that this monument to local banana production has just celebrated its 47th birthday, making it one of the oldest of Australia's 'big things', I suspect there is no-one in this country over the age of ten who has not seen this edifice in print or in person at some stage of their life. I therefore take comfort in the thought that this is not a fatal omission!

 

 

Liz has something of a penchant for markets (an observation not a criticism) and Coffs does turn on one of some significance each Sunday at the harbour. And I have to say, as harbours and marina precincts go, Coffs presents one of variety and interest. This 'borrowed' shot provides an aerial of the town, the southern breakwater and the northern breakwater which connects to Muttonbird Island.  The surf beaches lie to the north (right of shot) of the marina area.

Before we take our brief cook's tour of Coffs, a potted history for those interested.  Its name is the result of a mistake!  In 1847, John Korff, an immigrant to Australia of German heritage, sought shelter from a storm in the harbour whilst en route to the Bellenger River where he was to take on a cargo of locally cut cedar in his coastal trading ketch.  The harbour was then originally named 'Korffs Harbour' after its 'discoverer'.  The area was officially surveyed in 1861 when the surveyor responsible accidentally named it 'Coffs Harbour', and the rest, as they say, is history. 

The modern Coffs has been credited by the CSIRO as having 'the most livable climate' in the country with moderate average summer highs and equally manageable winter lows.  One direct result of this has been a recent and rapid expansion in the local population, which is expected to reach over 80,000 by 2016 on current trends.  On the basis of our two sojourns in the nearby Sawtell, Liz and I are happy to attest to the attractions of the climate.

The modern Coffs' economy is based largely on the enormous local banana production, supplemented significantly by tourism and manufacturing.  A campus of the Southern Cross University attracts many students to the area.  In an interesting parallel to Adelaide, the Coffs CBD is currently the subject of real challenge from more outlying shopping precincts with all the associated retailer angst, local council posturing and very little actually being done as far as we could determine.

But back to the Sunday market and beyond.  The market itself was unremarkable it that it presented the usual mix of offerings ranging from local produce to junk jewellery.  Despite this, it does attract a crowd.  We were very glad we arrived just after 7.30 am from a parking perspective.

Before the required browse (and breakfast) we decided to take on Muttonbird Island before the predicted temperature climbed too high.  Smart move.  A serious trudge up and down.

In this shot, which I later took from the local lookout, Muttonbird can be seen as the lump on the end of the breakwater to the left.  The marina and yacht basin lies between the rock wall and the old jetty.  The harbour area generally is protected from the worst of the Pacific Ocean swells by the second, southern breakwater which can be seen arcing northwards in centre shot. 

Now I am prepared to concede that the hump of Muttonbird does not look too forbidding from this perspective, but it does present a challenge.  The very well constructed walking path does make things a little easier and the strategically placed seats en route across the island (for the purpose of taking in the views only...of course!) do help.  Needless to say, there is a group of local smarties who use the track as a jogging course.  It is amazing how those engaged in serious physical exercise can manage to look so disdainful of us mere mortals whilst they huff and puff past.  Have you ever seen a jogger smiling?....haughty, yes, determined, yes, buggered (but we won't let that show), yes...but smiling?

The increasing tightness in our glutinous maxima and thigh driving muscles was soon forgotten as we made the most of the views on offer.

 
There is no better way to take in the vista of the marina basin, the old jetty and the apartments and houses of upper crust Coffs than from the rising western slope of Muttonbird.  And the island is aptly named.  Each year thousands of wedge-tailed shearwaters, nicknamed 'muttonbirds' by early settlers who would harvest these birds for their fatty, mutton like flesh, return to this island to mate and reproduce between May and June.  Each pair, which mate for life, returns year after year to exactly the same relatively shallow burrow which they dig in the peaty soil of the island.  The areas of brown on the surface of the grass shown in this photo are patches of soil from recently renovated burrows.  It is extraordinary to see how tightly they are massed over the entire island.  Dotted throughout the burrows are chains of small tubular rat traps placed there by island park rangers to reduce, as far as possible, the predatory effects of these rodents.







Views across Coffs' more northern beaches are also possible from the vantage points of Muttonbird,













as are those south over the southern breakwater to the sweep of Boambee Beach north of Sawtell.







Apart from the muttonbird habitat, the seaward end of the island provides the opportunity to see the blow spouts of the migratory whales, southbound at this time of the year.  We were encouraged to make the effort to watch the sunrise from this vantage point.  Maybe next trip!   

And who said breakwaters were aesthetically boring?  We were delighted to see that someone in authority had the good sense to allow this spot of colour to become an interesting change to the otherwise grey of the rocks at the end of the southern wall.

And on the northern breakwater wall, I was fascinated by the way in which the huge cement blocks had been, on first glance, apparenty tumbled randomly along the top and sides of the rock wall.

Random it is not, as my later enquiry revealed.  The placement of these blocks is quite deliberate and designed to most effectively dissipate the energy of the waves as they crash against the wall.

As well as the obvious attraction of the marina from an aesthetic perspective, and for those wealthy enough to own and enjoy their yachts and stinkies, it is also a  working port, the base for a small but thriving fishing industry.  Whilst the local fishing co-op is the recipient of the majority of the catch, relative bargains, bought direct from the boats, can still be had by the early and the knowledgeable.

 

The old jetty, which is no longer used for commercial shipping, remains another attraction of the area.  After all, what's a harbour without a jetty?

We did finally get back to prowl the markets and to visit the lookout on our way back to Sawtell, where I did manage to add to our collection of the 'odd or quaint'.  I have no idea whatsoever what this plant is, but it certainly has an impressive flower stalk.

Well, so much for our limited and targeted wander in Coffs.  We did tour far more extensively on our last visit two years ago and saw no need to repeat it this time around.  There is no doubt that the entire area is one of significant attraction, with its wonderful seascapes, interesting and attractive hinterland, national parks and most amenable climate.  We have no difficulty understanding why people are moving to this area in significant numbers, particularly those looking to enjoy their retirement is comfort.  No...far too soon for us.....settling down that is.












 

SAWTELL (17 - 30 SEPEMBER)

As with our arrival in Caloundra, Sawtell greeted us like and old friend.  It was good to be back.  Nothing had changed in the caravan park except our old site now boasted a large cement slab.  Whilst this makes mooring more of a challenge that if the site is all grass, I was relieved to think that in the event of rain I would not have to hang off the end of our trusty travelling shovel digging flood ditches around the annex (as happened last trip..in fact it was on that very wet Saturday we decided to up-grade!)

 

 

Just as well.  We had only just settled (minus the annex and awning) when the forecast thunderstorm and later heavy rain descended on the camp.  Day turned into night within the space of half an hour and we were more than pleased that we no longer huddled beneath a pop top.

 

And we had a repeat performance the following afternoon.  This time the storm lasted for over three hours well into the early evening.  Fortunately the forecast hail did not eventuate, but as you can see from the shot of our site, we have some very large trees under which to hide the tug.

 

Wednesday...and 'sunny Sawtell' lived up to its reputation.  So, out came the awning and up went the annex and our camp for the next twelve days was set. 

 

 

And whilst on the subject of our site etc, I have to say that the erection of the annex (which is only worth the effort for a stay of at least a week) does produce some unexpected results. Not only is the washing on the line, but the outside galley is in full swing.

What a study of culinary concentration. Ah, domestic bliss on the road!

 

This caravan park, which is council owned and operated, is one of the most attractive and largest in which we have stayed.  We chose to return to our previous site for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the shelter provided by the trees on site and those of the rain forest reserve which runs along the park boundary immediately behind our site.  This offers terrific protection in the event of an east coast 'southerly buster', weather conditions which can be interesting to say the least.

 

This nature reserve, which runs along the northern side of the nearby Bonville Creek, harbours much local wildlife, including an array of birds and, our friends of old, the resident goannas.  Brush turkeys roam the park grounds constantly on the lookout for a tasty morsel.  They are cheeky little devils, completely at home with their human neighbours and not at all averse to making a foray into open annexes.

 

The goannas (there are several, the largest of which we christened 'Gordon' two years ago) tend to prowl along the fence line, forked tongues flicking menacingly, but with good heart and pure intent as far as we are concerned.  And these varying scavengers are generally happy to co-exist.  (if you look closely you can just see the goanna in the shadows near the fence mid frame)

 

 

 

He is the smaller of the tribe.  Gordon is a whopper, and, we noted, considerably slower than he was when we were last here. 

 

 

In fact on that occasion we had the wonderful experience of watching one of the male brush turkeys seeing Gordon off in short order by attacking his tail. The sight of poor old Gordon attempting to scurry of with his tail literally wrapped as far forward as he could make it was something to behold. Big wuss.  My fear of lizards, well at least the big buggers, evaporated instantly.

  

Until, that is, Grand Final (AFL) day on this trip.  Our neighbours embraced this event in style, complete with a BBQ, prawns and beer.  Probably due to the rather cooler weather, we had not seen Gordon for a few days.  This was all about to change.  The plodding, usually somewhat muddled looking Gordon was transformed by hunger and the apparently irresistible smell of prawns to the point where human beings were but a minor impediment in his quest for edible goodies.

 

 

 

All that stood between him and a feast was the rear annex wall, which shortly after this photo was taken, he took to with some gusto.  Fortunately for our unsuspecting fellow campers, the wall held and Gordon retreated with less than good grace, but remained milling about in the area in something of an apparent quandary as to what to do next. 

 

I had been trimming some chops at the time and thought to entice Gordon back under the forest reserve fence with some well flung morsels.  A good idea at the time, as they say.  No sooner had I emerged from our van than the bloody great lizard came charging towards me, tongue flicking like a stockwhip.  I can happily report that you will have never seen a handful of pieces of lamb chop fat hurled so far or so wide at the same time as the hurler was in a full, undignified and noisy retreat.  Gordon and I had arrived at new understanding.  But clearly the scraps did the trick.....we did not see Gordon again before we left two days later.

 

I mentioned earlier how large, green and shady this park is and, whilst I concede continuing shots of caravan parks is hardly the stuff of scintillating travel tales, I have included a few here to set the scene.


Here are the wonderfully manicured grounds of the croquet club which is located in the park grounds,

  

as is this open space at the western end of the complex. If there is any downside to this park it lies in the fact that, being council owned, public access to, and use of, these areas is allowed. Fortunately security has never been an issue for us at this time of the year.



 

In addition to the many caravan sites, the park offers an extensive range of cabins, all of which are set in delightful gardens.

 

Some provide a marvellous view from the hilltop overlooking the 'back beach' and the Bonville Creek estuary, as can be seen from this shot looking to the north-west across the creek from the beach area south of the park.

 

One species of the trees which predominate throughout the park can be a pest at this time of the year. The dying flowers from many, particularly on and near our site, decorate all vehicles and roofs with an unwelcome yellow confetti. In flurries of wind the fall can be so intense as to feel like light hail. As I cleaned off the tug windscreen each morning I consoled myself with the thought that this was a small price to pay for the shade and protection they offer. (The last 4WD in the row is us)

 

 

And the final bonus....a pool. The town swimming centre with its 20 metre heated pool, is situated at the park entrance. Entry for park guests is included in the site fee. Needless to say, we have taken full advantage, in my case, in a somewhat forlorn effort to begin to ameliorate the cumulative effect of several weeks of social activities and the inevitable thickening of the waistline which results. (your correspondent can just be seen here powering (?) down the lane next to the far edge)

 

And whilst not swimming, there is always the chance of being able to quietly admire the local talent!

 

  

 

 

 

As mentioned before, the caravan park is bounded on its southern side by a nature reserve which itself runs alongside the Bonville Creek. Tracks constructed through the reserve allow access to the beach and creek areas

 

 

and along the length of the reserve for quite some distance, both through the forest,

 

 and, at various points, along the edge of the creek which is normally tidal. 

 

 

Much to my annoyance, a recent storm has resulted in the mouth of the creek being blocked by sand.  The banks of nippers which are normally exposed at low tide and which I used to pump for bait are now continually under over six feet of water.  So much for free bait!







The Sawtell headland separates the main beach from what is locally known as the back beach.  Included in this shot, taken looking north-east, can be seen a channel which had been dug by some of the locals in a vain attempt to encourage the creek to flow to the sea again.

 

One of the features of the back beach is a roped off bird nesting area (which is very poorly pictured in this shot) currently inhabited in significant numbers by Oystercatchers, Dotterels and, the main target of the programme, Little Terns. 

 

 

Needless to say, dog prohibition notices predominate the landscape, and although I am sure we did see a few dog tracks, the area was remarkably clear of them.  Whilst on the subject of ornithology, Sawtell, or at least the forest behind the park, is a  bird paradise, some of which we have been able to identify, whilst others remain a mystery.  They seem to wake in a specific and unvarying order.  The Kookaburras lead the morning charge at false dawn, which here at the moment is around 4.45 am.  Liz now sleeps through them, but I have had a regular alarm clock since arrival.  These are followed by several other species which I can't identify whilst the tail end charlies are the Eastern Whipbirds whose male call and the answering female response are piercingly distinctive.  Yet, despite all efforts, we've not yet been able to spot any of these elusive little devils.

 

Like many other small coastal towns, Sawtell has lately been 'discovered'.  To reach 'old' Sawtell one has now to drive through several kilometres of an ever increasing suburbia.  And equally similar to many other places, a deal of the development which has taken place has been less than well received by the older inhabitants as they see their lifestyles under threat.

 

But fortunately the old heart of Sawtell has remained untouched, including what we both consider to be one of the most charming main streets in Australia.  The approach at its northern end is overlooked by the huge RSL Club, the largest building in Sawtell.  This is really big business.  Several bars, a large entertainment hall and open air balconies on which the famous Sunday Breakfast is served throughout the summer, all cater very adequately to the needs of locals and visitor alike.

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The RSL Club does not have it all its own way in the food and beverage stakes. The Sawtell Hotel and a significant number of main street restaurants, cafes and fast food outlets provide a plethora of choice for those wishing the dine out.

 

 

 

With the popularity of Sawtell as a holiday destination, and the extensive local catchment as a result of the housing boom, all these establishments seem to be thriving.  Our favourite, the wine bar 'Barrels, remains under the same management as was the case when we were last here, and is doing very nicely we were told.

 

  

 

  

But the real feature of the main street, which is less than half a kilometre long, are the magnificent Moreton Bay fig trees which envelop the street like huge umbrellas.

 

 

 

Delightful gardens are maintained along the median strip on which there are also a number of park benches and tables which are constantly popular.  A number of the local wine bars become the venues for various types of musical offerings at different stages during the week (Barrels is Sunday afternoon, for example) and on these occasions it is common to see groups sitting at these tables enjoying 'free' entertainment.  And, to our real surprise,  it's not a dry area! 

 

 

 

 

 

 But the most spectacular sight in the main street comes with nightfall.  Need I say more?

 

 

 

Notwithstanding the obvious charm and attraction of the main street and the wining and dining on offer here, and the wonderfully maintained and very popular bowls, croquet and golfing facilities, it is Sawtell's beaches and the two creeks which empty into the sea north and south of the town which draw people back here time and again.

 

Let us start at the Sawtell headland.  This overlooks both the 'back beach' to the south and the mouth (when not silted over!) of the Bonville Creek.  The spit of sand which can be seen mid shot lies between the creek and the sea for some distance like a mini Coorong.

 

 

 

The saltwater rock pool, which is another feature of this headland, has undoubted charm, but its outdoor setting did little to attract either of us.  Why freeze when a heated pool is available at our doorstep?

 

North of the headland lie the twin crescents of the main Sawtell beach which end at the Boambee headland.  As can be seen, the first of the two sections of this beach is relatively sheltered and provides a wonderful spot for young folk to muck around in the water.

 

 

The larger section of the main beach, here seen looking south from atop the Boambee headland along the beach and over the township to the Sawtell headland,

 

 

 

  hosts the Sawtell SLSC and its renown beachfront cafe. 

  

    

This is definitely the place to be seen during any visit to Sawtell! (and the food's not bad either).  Sunday breakfasts are particularly popular.  Any fine morning will see the upper story balcony of the club populated by old clubbies all warming themselves in the morning sun after their regular swim across from the island just off the Sawtell headland.  There are some distinct advantages in having the sun rise over the ocean rather than set. 

 

The lawn surrounds of the clubhouse and the quite large, wooden beach viewing deck are almost as popular as the cafe.  It is rare to walk through here on any half decent day and not find the place crowded with young surfers, mums and their bubs, and picnicking groups of all varieties, local and tourist alike.

 

 

 

For some reason which I cannot fathom, the surf club does not have a liquor licence.  As the only facility in Sawtell with a direct view over the ocean, the capacity to cater for those wishing to wine and dine in that environment would be a licence to print money! 

 

But back to our walk. Whilst sections of the Boambee Headland trail can be a little challenging (note the hands on hips...this is steeper than it looks!)

 

 

 

some spectacular views reward all who are prepared to make the effort.  Boambee Beach, on which vehicles are allowed, stretches north from the tidal Boambee Creek mouth (the dark strip of water in the foreground is the creek streaming out to sea on a falling tide) to Coffs Harbour.   Mutton Bird Island, which is linked to the Coffs Marina area by a causeway, can be seen here as the headland at the far end of the beach.  More of this area later.

 

Looking back from this same spot one can take in the vista of the Boambee Creek as it meanders through a beautiful picnic area, under the railway bridge and on to the sea.

 

 

 

Further around the headland the power of the ocean, on even this relatively mild day, was evident. 

 

 

 

As each breaking wave receded, the rip areas dragged masses of sand out to sea with them.  Not a place for the faint hearted swimmer!

 

Apart from the views which unfold from the top of the headland across the Sawtell  and Boambee beaches and the Boambee Creek, another delight awaits those with a modicum of patience and a good eye at this time of the year.  Whales.

 

 

 

Even with our unsophisticated camera I did manage to capture the final seconds of what had been a spectacular breach by this southward bound leviathan.  As somewhat insignificant as this looks given the distance, the sight of this display and the numerous breathing spouts from this and other whales in this pod, was riveting.  We have firmly decided that a whale watching cruise will be on the agenda of our next trip to this part of the world.

 

Down from the headland to the Boambee Creek.  This remains one of our favourite spots in Sawtell.

 

 

Even at low tide, some water can always be found in the main channel as the creek wends its way past the superbly maintained picnic grounds

 

 

 

 

 

and well appointed kiosk which caters to the needs of the many who flock to this park.

 

 

 

Further around the creek from the main picnic area, the sandy flats give way to muddy areas and the inevitable mangrove trees

 

 

 

 

whilst the walking path finally comes to an end at another green and open park complete with its own spectacular tree.

 

 

 

 

For those wishing to picnic away from the madding crowd, shelter sheds are dotted along this section of the banks of the creek.  Liz took a while to come to grips with my comment that this one was named after a very smart local lad. (Let's face it, you haven't had a play on words for a while)

 

 

  

The Boambee Creek reserve really does cater for everyone.  Fishing, canoe and board paddling, pumping for nippers, splashing in the shallows, sitting about on the lawn or at one of the many tables or crossing the creek via the railway bridge to access the Boambee beach for walks or surf fishing......this area does have the lot.  We love it. 

 



Another real pleasure for us on this particular trip has been meeting Monica and Richard Osborne.  Richard is a Senior Constable with the Sawtell constabulary, and, as we discovered when we returned home after our last visit here, a great mate of one of our Glenelg SLSC friends.  Monica works in the Emergency department of the Coffs Harbour Hospital, so as you would expect, we had much in common.  Contact made, we shared a couple of lovely occasions with 'Monza and Dick', one in our annex and the other at Barrels. 

 

 

 

Their company added much to our visit to Sawtell on this occasion. (although we did not join them on their beach walk after this photo shot at our site)

 

And before we left Sawtell, Liz made a momentous decision.....to dispose of a top she has worn consistently for the past twenty years.

 

  

We later drank to its demise and to our wonderful fortnight in Sawtell at our farewell bash at Barrels where we discovered that the two lads who comprise 'Thora Zoo' could actually perform much better musically than their name suggested they might. 

 

Of course, we did visit Coffs Harbour during our stay. This will be subject of a separate offering.  For now, it's pack up, hitch up, retrieve Max from his 'holiday' and off to Harrington, Port Stephens, Sydney, Picton and Werri Beach. 

 

Finally, a further apology for the boring 'in-line' photo presentation for the majority of this blog.  I can assure you it is not the product of editorial sloth.  After almost an hour of fiddling in an attempt to fix what ever seems to be ailing this damned computer, I decided that it was better that only it was going nuts rather than both of us.