Friday 30 September 2016

FORCED TO FLEE - LEAVE NOW FOR MITCHELL OR SPEND MORE TIME IN TAMBO THAN PLANNED (19 SEPTEMBER 2016)

For the past week we had been watching the rise and fall of a critical central Queensland waterways, well, critical to our plans at least. 




And there was plenty to consider. The icons on this map of the relevant area of Queensland are all points at which the road network is either impassable or can only be negotiated with extreme caution (which generally means one has to be the size of a road train!)




Navigating our way through all this information had proved challenging, but by the time we had reached Tambo we had mastered the art and had found a couple of complementary sites which provided added detail. 

We already knew that Charleville had been cut off completely in both directions (again we rejoiced in the fact we had not chosen the route which would have meant we had to enter and leave that town!). What we now had under active consideration was the state of what would normally be considered a quite minor waterway, the Burenda Creek.


This stream, which hardly shows up on the normal road maps, can be seen here crossing the highway south of Augathella right at the 'A2' icon. For the past few days this had been the point at which the highway had been impassable, but there had been some suggestion late on Sunday (or at least the word was going round the pub) that the water had receded enough to allow traffic to pass. 

Our erstwhile party animal mates had decided to take the punt....they headed out first thing on Monday morning with the promise to ring us if things became grim. Initially I had decided to stay put for another day, but nevertheless I rang the Augathella Police to seek further advice. The most obliging Sergeant who took my call told me that the road was indeed open at the moment but that the rain forecast within the next 24 hours would undoubtedly see it closed again, for an indeterminate period.

That was more than enough to spur yours truly into instant action (albeit somewhat sluggish). "Lizzie, we're off, now. We should be able to get through to Mitchell today."

Because we knew that any change to the situation could see the Augathella Caravan Park inundated with stranded caravaners, we took the precaution of making an overnight booking, as well as that we also made in Mitchell. I think it's called 'hedging one's bets'!





Liz saw to all of that and the inside pack-up whilst I scurried about pulling everything down, something I normally do the night before a departure. 







It's amazing what impetus an emergency can create. The thought of being stranded in Tambo for any number of days (despite the fact we really did like the place) lent power to my somewhat slack bow. We had begun to drift off the schedule of our return....further delays would potentially see us having to travel a number of exceptionally long days.....not our preferred option by any means.

If a rapid pack-up ever becomes an Olympic event, the Marshies are a shoe-in to be standing on the podium. The only downside to all this alacrity was the nagging thought that we had overlooked some crucial step in our departure preparations, like a forgotten van handbrake, or a still raised TV aerial, for example. Needless to say our pre-take off checks were carried out more than usually thoroughly, and I can report that all was well. Practice does indeed make perfect!







The road to Augathella soon beckoned. This was the first leg of what we hoped would be the 300 kms trip to Mitchell.







  


On south through the open plains we pushed. Never before had we left a park so late. It was odd to be on the road on the approach to mid-day at the beginning of the day's travel...by now we are normally heaving to.










We soon had the first reminder of why we were on the move. Fortunately the shimmer on the highway ahead of us was nothing more than a very shallow remnant of what would have been quite a watery challenge two days ago.







Within the first hour we crossed another milestone in our journey south out of Queensland. It had actually become very important to know just where we were at any one time in relation to the Queensland area descriptions for the simple reason that all forecasts refer to them, just as they do everywhere.








The countryside was becoming more timbered as we approached Augathella but the delights or otherwise of highway scenery were not really uppermost in our minds at this stage.









This is what we had been waiting to see. Open to Morven...you bloody beauty....that meant that the Burenda Creek crossing was also open. Thank heavens we were not desperate to go to Charleville!









Within minutes we had by passed Augathella, which sits off the main highway, 










and were on the approach to our potential highway nemesis.









Making our way across the first section of the low bridge/culvert which allows for the creek crossing, it became all too obvious that a mere smidge of extra rainfall would indeed see this road blocked again.











And then, as we neared the main crossing, our collective hearts sank. A stop sign.....surely not. For once we prayed that what we were approaching were roadworks!










Indeed they were. The flagman here soon became our instant number one best friend when he turned his sign to the 'slow' side. Roadworks it was, repairs to the surface which had been washed away by the previous flood.










As we cautiously crawled on over the crossing, the full extent of what we may have faced became apparent. 








Not only was the Burenda Creek spread out well over its normal banks, it was still but a few centimetres below the road level and flowing strongly. Now we could see just what the Augathella Sergeant had meant...it would take very little to see this again become a closed crossing.....as indeed it did the following day.....for three days!



"Well Lizzie, we've made it. A 300 kms day was the last thing I wanted today, but needs must."  "Serves you right", was the muttered reply!




Apart from the remaining distance, from now on the road ahead was plain sailing as we made our way on towards Morven.












The topography had now begun to change. The flat plains country was now intersected by ridges of hills which had to be crossed 













before once again we descended onto the flat ground with its seeming endless horizons.










Just shy of the little town of Morven, the Landsborough Highway comes to an end. For the next leg of today's journey we were be traversing the dreaded Warrego, ostensibly the worst major highway in Queensland (well that was our firm recollection).



The Warrego Highway starts at Charleville and runs east from there through Mitchell, Roma, Dalby and on to Brisbane. We had previously travelled the section east of Roma, and our memories were of a day of unbelievable dips and bumps, a wretchedly corrugated bitumen surface and speeds often reduced to 60 kph. We had not been looking forward to reaching this junction.

But, to our great relief, as we made our way into Morven for a break and a toasted sandwich, we discovered that this end of the Warrego is a far tamer beast. It appears that the reasons given for the state of its eastern section  (the major and constant movements in the black soil over which it runs) may have some foundation other than a local Queensland Government excuse for poor road maintenance.




In any event, we plodded on rejoicing, past another positive road open sign 














and on towards Mitchell, now blessedly less than 100 kms distant. By now I was seriously weary. At this point we felt confident enough for Liz to ring the Augathella park and cancel our booking.









Beyond Morven we hit some serious roadside timber













before once again dropping onto more open flat country,













where yet again we had the pleasure of passing vast carpets of yellow wildflowers.









Rarely have I been so pleased to see the main street of a town. Mitchell at last! We had made it though. From here the only potential sticking point between us and our next destination, St George, was at Surat, on the highway south out of Roma...but that will be a problem for another day.








For now it was down through Mitchell's main street and across the Maranoa River road bridge at the far end













where our current travails took on some perspective.....fancy making this trip in 2012!









Just beyond the bridge we came upon a sight we had both clearly remembered from our previous visit here back way back in 2010....the flags which line the boundary of the Major Mitchell Caravan Park. 












A right turn onto the park approach road












and another which took us through the park entrance gates, and we had arrived.











Rarely have I been so pleased to see the welcoming roadways of a caravan park.









Normally the sign 'Live Worms' and the obvious prospect of a tasty fish or two would have immediately aroused my interest. Not today! 














As we drove on the blessedly sealed roadway (we were seriously over mud) past some of the park cabins, 









past one of the many en-suite sites to be found here













and on to our drive-thru site at the highway end of the park, all I could think about was a shower, a feed and bed.







But my day of unplanned action was not yet over. Whilst I was more than grateful to be able to just pull onto our site without any fuss, I then discovered that it was sloped to such an extent that to level the van I had to drop the A frame until it was almost touching the ground. This had only happened to us once before, in Denham at WA's Shark Bay.

So what's the big deal, I hear you snort.  Well dear readers, this means that I had to excavate holes in the most unforgiving dolomite and clay mixture of our patch to enable the front stabilising legs to drop down far enough to achieve an angle sufficient to be effective. I was not really in the mood for some vigorous exercise, believe me, but again, need must.





Finally we were set. Gloomy skies put paid to the need for the awning. Given that I would have had the devil of a job pegging it down on this surface, I was unusually relaxed....if it rained again (and it did) we would just have to make sure everything was stowed away (and it was).



And then we discovered that our perniciously persistent previous party pals were also here. "Come and join us for a drink when you have set up", was the cry. "Sorry folks, I'm buggered. Tea and an early night is all that's on my agenda....see you tomorrow!"

And indeed we did, by then with renewed vigour, but that and a tour around Mitchell is a tale for the next instalment.

THE TINY TERRIFIC TOWN OF TAMBO (17-18 SEPTEMBER 2016)

At first glance there's not much to Tambo, but like so many of these small country towns, it tends to punch above its weight as far as the tourist scene is concerned. Visitors are very well catered for. Apart from the excellent caravan park in which we were staying, coupled with the adjoining motel complex, there is another park at the far end of town, a little tired looking, but apparently quite functional (we did note it is on the market!)





Like Ilfracombe, the Landsborough Highway forms Tambo's main street, but here the carriageway is divided to allow for centre parking.











As I mentioned in my previous, the highway closure south of the town had rendered this normally quite busy thoroughfare strangely quiet. Just the shot for those of us wanting to wander around the town like Browns' Cows!




Any visiting Tambo need never go hungry or thirsty. The relatively small Tambo CBD, which like most of these towns, is clustered along the main drag, houses two pubs, two cafes, another in the service station at the end of the street, a butcher and a very well stocked Foodworks store.







All are within a few minutes stroll from the caravan park. The Tambo Tavern











with its rather incongruously modern front verandah stands almost directly opposite the park. This proved to be too much of a temptation by Sunday evening. 





After cowering in our vans for most of the day sheltering from the incessant rain, we joined our most friendly park neighbours at the Tavern. What began as a displaced happy hour morphed into dinner and ended with us all crammed, Chez Marshies, for nightcaps of my fine single malt. It was a big night, one I was to regret more than usual the following morning for reasons I'll explain later....but hell it was fun!




With our limited time here we did not have the opportunity to visit the 'main' town pub, an imposing building with an equally imposing name. Easy for you to say! Our newly found park friends had done so and we were happy to accept their advice that the Tavern was the better of the two local watering holes.






Tucked in at the end of the pub building, the town butcher plies his wares from a modest shop, but in what we can only assume is a reflection of local demand, his door is only open on limited days of the week, and even then for less than the entire day. 








Further along this same side of the road is the rather garish shop front of Fanny Mae's cafe, an establishment of some class. On our observations, this was very popular with both locals and tourists alike, and for good reason.....the quality of the food and service is excellent.








The rival town town coffee shop/cafe, located on the opposite of the road in conjunction with the 'Grasslands' gallery, also seemed to attract its fair share of trade.





One of the real problems for folk who inhabit small towns such as Tambo can be that of 'the weekly shop', but here there is no such difficulty. As we wandered amongst the well stocked shelves of the Tambo Foodworks we were more than impressed by the range of goods presented (apart from the missing Weekend Australian...courtesy of the flooded highway).





Even in a tiny town like Tambo the presence of the pubs, cafes and so on did not come as a surprise, but the last of the retail outlets in the CBD cluster did.....Tambo Teddies? Now I have to say that teddy bears ceased to have any real attraction for me many, many, many years ago, but Liz waxed lyrical about the products on offer here. 



Behind this rather modest looking little shop is a real story. From humble beginnings in 1992, when three local women set up this business to help the town survive the deprivations of the drought and the downturn in the wool industry, as well as provide some jobs and encourage tourists to stop in Tambo, this extraordinary enterprise has since turned out over 40,000 bears. Each is made from local wool and is individually named and numbered and they are now sold all over the country. They are not cheap...about $250 each, but they do enjoy something akin to royal patronage. One of the Tambo Teddies, fully kitted out as an Aussie stockman, now graces the bedroom of Prince George, a gift to the Royals from the Australian Government. And it all started here in tiny Tambo!

Apart from its famous teddies, Tambo has another claim to fame. It is the oldest town in western Queensland, established on the banks of the Barcoo River in 1863. Initially not much went on here, but as settlers took up grazing runs, Tambo became the local centre of the burgeoning and very important sheep grazing industry. 

Sheep are still important in the region, although today they are rivalled by cattle. For the town's population of about 350 souls, tourism now also provides a critical supplement to the local economy.






The history of Tambo is reflected in many of its buildings such as the original town courthouse which now serves to house the local library














and the old Post Office, now home to the town museum.













Interestingly, the 'old' PO building looks to be in better nick than the new (but much more imposing) Tambo HQ of Australia Post.









For such a small town, the Tambo Shire Hall is a pretty impressive edifice












which stands in complete contrast to the much more modest St Michael's Anglican Church building.













Similar extremes can be found amongst the town's residential buildings where this rather grand old homestead












is in a different league to its nearby neighbour, where the solar roof panels and the two satellite dishes demonstrate that the age of a building is no impediment to the addition of all mod cons!









In a final snippet of Tambo history let me present Flo,















which is housed now in this rather impressive building in the main street.















And here's her story, another example of the enterprise of the folk of Tambo.














Tambo boasts another truck on public display. 'Wild and Woolly' is completely different 














with an equally different story to tell.













Whilst on the subject of local points of interest and history, two more stand out, both with the common theme of tragedy. This is the impressive memorial erected in memory of one Reginald Sylvester Barry, born 31 December 1885...died 17 June 1919.









Why so young? How did he die? And, why this expansive memorial? 

Reg Barry was the manager of the large sheep property, the Tambo Station. Like the rest of the country, in 1919 Tambo's population had been struck down by the dreadful Spanish influenza epidemic which was to claim so many lives world wide. The one doctor in Tambo at the time was utterly run off his feet attempting to care for those afflicted. Reg Barry unselfishly came to his aid, ferrying patients from outlying properties to the town and assisting in looking after them. And his reward for this selfless behaviour? Sadly, but almost inevitably, he too contracted pneumonic influenza, with fatal results. But the town did forgot his sacrifice, and this memorial was erected in his honour in 1920.







Not too far from the town centre stands another memorial, not to one, but to three. These days Qantas enjoys an enviable, if not unique, safety record in the aviation world. But it was not always so. During its formative years the fledgling airline sustained a number of fatal crashes. Tambo has the dubious distinction of being the site of the first.





On 24 March, 1927, a Qantas de Havilland DH93 was making a scheduled flight between Charleville and Mount Isa with Tambo as a secondary destination. As the plane came in to land on the saltpan near the township, it was seen to suddenly dive into the ground. The young pilot and his two male passengers did not survive the impact. No cause has ever been established, although the fact that the aircraft had earlier landed at a nearby station for repairs is considered significant.

From these historical events let's return to the present, and the floods with which we were having to deal. As I mentioned earlier, Tambo was established on the banks of the Barcoo River, normally a benign and lifegiving stream which meanders past the town well within the embrace of its constraining banks.







Not so at the moment.....flushed with the recent rains, the Barcoo has spread its watery wings and is wandering wetly wither it pleases.









And this includes well over the normal limits of the road crossing on the secondary unsealed road east out of Tambo to both Alpha and Springsure. 










Understandably the local authorities had erected barriers and closed the road, but as you can see here this was no deterrent to some. As we watched, not only did the driver of this motor home ignore the signs (and the application  of common sense), 







several of whom we assume to be locals did exactly the same. Now admittedly this water was not flowing strongly, nor was it unduly deep, but a closure is a closure.










At least those ignoring all before them had the decency to drive around the barriers, as the wheel tracks showed!










So that completes a quick tour around this very interesting and, for us two passing through, very comfortable historic western Queensland township. Let me close with one last sign.....is this a reminder of a more rugged past? Could Tambo have been Queensland's Dodge City of yesteryear? I have no idea, but for whatever reason this sign has been erected, I am an enthusiastic supporter of its invocation!


After now having spent two days in Tambo, we retired (hurt...well your scribe at least) on Sunday night with one more day to go. We would spend a relaxing recovery day enjoying the benefit of what would be a 'free night' before moving on.........or so we thought!