Thursday 26 September 2019

IT WAS ALMOST TOO MUCH - YOWAH - PART 2 (THE SOCIAL SCENE AND SOME NEW FRIENDS) (29 -31 MAY 2019)

OK, let's get the high jinks out of the way before we embark on the serious business of sightseeing (you will note I did not say 'more serious'!).  

Yowah is not a big town, and of those who own homes here, quite a few shut up shop (literally in some cases as we shall see) and head south during the hotter summer months. This is a situation which is almost the reverse of what goes on in White Cliffs, but one which is driven by the same reason.

The 2017 census confirmed that Yowah's population is about 100, so it is little wonder that no-one has taken the plunge and established a local pub. But that has not deterred those who live here from ensuring that they can gather publicly over a frothy or two (or three) on at least two occasions a week. 

Bar meals and drinks are on for all comers each Wednesday and Saturday evening at the well set up complex managed by the Yowah Community Services group. We had the good fortune to have arrived here on a Wednesday, had seen the notice on the chalk board, and were more than determined to embrace the local social scene. We suspected that a large majority of those staying in the park would do the same, and we were right.







The venue for these bi-weekly events can be found on the main road into town, Harlequin Street. In fact we had passed it making our way to our digs. The surrounds look pretty bare for one simple reason....they are!




My old friend 'Google Earth' shows why. As you can see, Yowah lies surrounded by red earth which is dotted only here and there with trees. Grassy plains....forget it!



























I've marked the Community Service area (and the adjacent public hot spa) with the red arrow. Our caravan park and site location is in blue, whilst the yellow dart shows the location of the cafe where we indulged in pizza and drinks on the Friday evening.






In front of the buildings the town War Memorial is quaintly and colourfully decorated with painted rocks, a Yowah substitute for flowers!












As I've mentioned previously, when the locals here get together, things happen. We poked our noses in here during the day when it was empty and were amazed to find that this complex includes an outdoor stage, plenty of outdoor furniture, 










with fire stands dotted throughout (we soon discovered why!).













The large hall and recreation room which abuts the food servery and kitchen











was actually being put to good use when we arrived in the late afternoon for the scheduled festivities. The local Shire was conducting a community meeting (I've forgotten the matters under discussion, but they were of some import) and the hall was well populated. There was, as yet, no activity at the food service area, 





but fortunately this was not the case at the bar. It was open for business. At this point we itinerants from the caravan park were the only customers, and whilst I was wandering around snapping away, Liz had already made some new friends in a group which included a couple from Adelaide.








I realised that the meeting was over when I spotted this 'chalk and cheese' encounter, a Shire heavy in deep conversation with one of the locals.












As the hall emptied the empty bar stools filled















and as the sun set, the fuel in the fire stands was set ablaze to ward off the rapidly descending evening chill. 












By nightfall most of the previously empty seats had been snapped up.















Tourists and locals mingled merrily as can tops popped, bottles were opened and the yarns began.








With what seemed like our own personal brazier blazing away behind us, our little group boxed on with gay abandon (that's Liz in the purple top...wondering just what I was up to!). We found that we got on famously well with the two couples included in this chance encounter and we subsequently spent many entertaining social hours together.



For some reason or other (now lost in the mists of time....or in the bottom of a glass) we didn't quite get around to breasting the food bar. I vaguely recall that we had made sure that we had a meal waiting for us on our return to the van, so the very tasty looking burgers which were on offer here this evening did not find their way to our table. Our new found friends had been equally cautious, so we slurped and gargled on with gay abandon.

What an introduction this had been to Yowah, but it didn't end here.

Tomorrow evening was to be even more entertaining. Thursday night in Yowah is 'Duck Race Night'! We had read something about this previously, and, not having given the matter sufficient thought, could not for the life of us understand how on earth ducks could be assembled and raced in a place like this. 

That was until we rather sheepishly discovered that the participants in this weekly 'seaonal' event, which is all set up to raise funds for the Royal Flying Doctor Service, were not of the feathered variety. Doh!!


The 'race', which in reality sees little yellow rubber ducks floating down the bore drain, is run in conjunction with dinner cooked by the park staff (and local helpers) and a raffle. Dinner bookings were essential, and at the appointed time we all gathered in the camp dining area with its wonderful mural adorning the back wall.




As we found in Gulargambone, another of the 'fun' parks on the road, the duck races and dinner here in Yowah attract a goodly number of the local residents, as well as us blow-ins. When we later saw what graced our plates (roast and sweets) for $20, we could understand why.






My newly acquired mate Chris and yours truly fell into a deep pre-event conversation, and, as you may be able to tell from our apparel, this was far from a warm night. Red wine, Scotch and Stones green ginger wine were very much the drinks of choice (or was that necessity?) for this evening.









The race course was all set, steaming in the late afternoon chill,
















and as night enveloped us, the race participants were assembled.







This is how it works. Each little duck is numbered, and all who wish to take a punt on the winner(s) line up at a table in the dining hall and buy a number. The $10 purchase price becomes a direct donation to the RFDS. What a great little earner this had become, and what a hoot the evening was.


But obviously there was more to it than this. Those with high hopes of a win, or more to the point, just wanting to be involved in this unique event, lined the course.















The tub of ducks was emptied into the channel and the race was on.














This bore line is anything but a fast flowing stream, and whilst the field did spread remarkably quickly, some of the back markers did need a touch of the whip, in this case in the form of a swirl or two with a leaf rake!


















We had already seen the 'Finish Line' but now the set up here became clearer. Both the small platform over the drain and the metal cage (on the right of this shot) soon came into play.








As the racing ducks reached the finishing line they were captured in the cage by a 'race steward' who then lined up the winners in order on the platform on which she was kneeling. Creative if nothing else!







Mind you, it was just as well that there had been a clear first, second and third. The back runners arrived in what could best be described as 'rake induced' chaos, a blanket finish if ever there was one, but let's face it, this was of little consequence...the winners had been decided and it was time for tea,



which was excellent in both quality and quantity. They even served up a half chicken for philistines like my nearest and dearest who cannot come at the delights of roast pork! With (un-photographed) sticky date pudding with a seriously good caramel sauce for desert, this was a meal to remember.









With dinner over and the race winners rewarded, Rick took to the floor, called the crowded room to attention, and conducted  the raffle.










Again, with this came a 'Yowah twist'. Rather than call on any present to dip a hand into a raised receptacle of numbers, the camp pooch did the honours, plucking a duck from a dish and trotting across to the prize table with a numbered duck in its mouth. 




'Novel' doesn't even go halfway to describing this spectacle! Oh, yes, and at the the end of the fund raising activities, the RFDS coffers would soon be swelled by just under $1,000!

Needless to say, this evening did not end early. None at our table walked away winners as far as the race and the raffles went, but from a social stance this had been a night to remember. We were all very grateful the distance between the venue and our respective digs was not far and that the even ground between them was well lit!

The next day brought even more social activity, this time in the form of a 'High Tea'....yep, you read that correctly.....high tea!

This time it was to be Cancer Research which would benefit from money raised. I had decided that my regular afternoon nap was of more importance, but Liz contributed a packet of cream biscuits (which 'she who must be obeyed' in the person of the chief organiser said would be more than acceptable) and represented the Mobile Marshies.

As we had now learnt, no community event in Yowah is undertaken by halves.






As the appointed hour approached, the tables in and beyond the camp kitchen were loaded with goodies of all sorts. Cakes, biscuits, pikelets, slices and all manner of concoctions appeared on the the tables. It seemed the only criterion was that it was sweet.


















There was even a proper cup cake stand gracing one section of this cornucopia.
















As the guests began to assemble, well rugged up against the afternoon chill, the camp fire blazed,














the obligatory speeches were made













and applauded














and then it was 'time for tea', High Tea that is.
















I am told that with the donations received added to the proceeds of the trading table, Yowah punched well above its weight yet again.





As if all this were not enough, Friday in Yowah is 'pizza night'. The Yowah Nut cafe holds it doors open uncommonly late for those who wish to consume in house or to take away. The only sensible stipulation is that orders are placed by mid afternoon to allow for proper catering.

Our new found friends Jenny and Chris were quick to agree with our suggestion that an evening pizza would be an ideal way to end our Yowah adventures. With BYO contributions tucked under our arms we wandered off a short distance down Harlequin Street





where the staff of the immaculately clean and well organised Yowah Nut cafe were awaiting our arrival (they were not too sure about posing for a photo!).












By now I had discovered that Chris shared my delight in a slurp on a single malt whisky, so the caravan bed had been lifted and the cellar raided. My contribution to the collective drinks trolley was more than well received. 




As were our pizzas. 

Understandably, given where we were, we had expected that the ($20 large, and $15 small) presentations would have been of the frozen and reheated variety. 

Nothing of the kind! The bases were all freshly made that day, and the toppings, the quantities of which were predicated on our prior orders, were prepared and added whilst we waited. I was gobsmacked. For some reason our camera remained in its pouch, but let me assure you all, dear readers, that I supped this evening on one of the finest pizzas I've ever had presented before me. It was sensational, and my surprise and delight was echoed around the table. This had been yet another outback surprise and a huge tick for Yowah.

The marvellous staff here were volunteers, and with that in mind, plus the fact that the chef had to go home to feed her grandchildren, we did not linger. But you would be wrong to think that our last night in Yowah was any different from our first. 

The party continued in Jenny and Chris's mobile home until well into the night before common sense and the rather (by now) daunting spectacle of a morning departure finally won out.

It had been some time since we had arrived in a new camp and partied on one way or another for three nights straight. We almost had to leave for a rest!

Tuesday 24 September 2019

YAHOO FOR YOWAH! - YOWAH - PART 1 (THE TRIP AND THE PARK) (29 - 31 MAY 2019)

Yowah had not really featured in the initial planning of our trip up through the Channel Country. In fact it was not until we reached Cunnamulla and I was checking the alternative routes to Quilpie that I saw the name on the charts. For some reason it rang a bell, and then we remembered that travelling friends of ours had popped in virtually 'on spec' some years ago and just loved the place.

A spot of quick research told us that this was another of those odd little Australian outback opal towns. Why not, we thought? With Cooper Pedy, White Cliffs, Lightning Ridge, and The Grawin all under out belts, it seemed silly to be virtually passing by and not add this one to our list of Aussie opal towns visited.

What a great decision this proved to be. We had one of the best three day periods of our travels here with a group of great townsfolk and some marvellous fellow travellers (we almost reached the stage where we had to leave to have a rest!). 

But, as usual, we have to get there first, and although Yowah is only about 80 kms north-east of Thargomindah as the crow flies, the most direct road involves some dirt bashing. We took the longer, more circuitous route of just under 200 kms which kept us on the blacktop all the way even though much of it was pretty narrow.



Today, our normal early morning departure upset Max more than merely by virtue of the fact he was to suffer the indignity of being caged for the trip.....this morning his travelling arrangements included disturbing a delightful post breakfast nap in the early morning sun. Such is life for a ship's cat!






To reach the junction which would take us north, we had to backtrack along the Adventure Way for the first 100 kms or so. This meant that after leaving our digs at the Thargomindah Explorers Caravan Park we were soon crossing the Bulloo River for the last time as we headed east towards Cunnamulla.









After a completely uneventful first leg, the anticipated Quilpie junction was soon just ahead of us, 










and here, as we made the left turn to head north at what is known as Carpet Springs, we soon found ourselves back on one of those outback roads where the limited amount of traffic carried means that the demand for a wide strip of bitumen is not warranted. 








But we are old hands at this sort of stuff, and narrow roads and bumpy cattle grids held no fears as we made our way along under the clear skies of what was a challenging chilly morning.








This is country where there is a lot of not a lot, so any infrastructure, such as the spread out buildings of the Alroy station homestead, creates almost undue interest.









By now we knew that we were approaching our second turn off for the day, but before reaching it we had to cross the floodway of the Yowah Creek where we came to more evidence of the recent rains in this area.





Yowah is a town for which there is 'one way in and one way out', and this junction took us onto 












the last 25 kms leg of today's trip through a stretch of quite thick scrub land 











before we were greeted by this creative and colourful town sign standing alongside an old windlass. We were soon to learn that the depiction of the opal is a stylised presentation of a 'Yowah Nut', the unique opal of this area. This really does set the scene for what is on offer here,










as do the advertising signs which were soon lining our approach to the south-eastern end of the town and our next caravan park.

















The last 200 metres or so brought us towards a line of large white rocks, and as we drove past,  










we were beginning to see why this town bears the reputation it does (which we were soon to confirm in spades)....quirky, arty and friendly.








We hove to in front of the group of buildings which included the park office, the town general store, the park cafe and dining area and a few more odds and ends. The store is a recently new addition to the town infrastructure and was developed by the current park owners after they took over the park. It is remarkably well stocked and the townsfolk love them for it!



As we made ourselves known in the office, for some reason I cannot now recall, tales of our previous lives came to the fore, and to our mutual surprise, it turned out that Rick, the co-owner of the park with his charming and hardworking wife, Anne, was a retired Victorian copper. Enough said!  We were instant mates.

Rich suggested that a site on the edge of the town road which runs right through the park would be just the shot for us. There was a shielding hedge between us and the (far from busy) road, and on this one we would be able to park the Cruiser next door rather than in front of the van. Good job, Rick.





We were not long in settling in













and raising the flag! Given the location, we were unsurprised to find that the sites here were dry and dusty, so it was out with the trusty C-Gear flooring for comfort under the awning, with one set of shade cloth up at the front to counter the dust of vehicles coming and going past our site.







I have to say that having a main town street running right though the park in which we were staying was a novelty (the end of the hedge at the right of this shot is our site), but all who used it were aware of the speed humps and respectful of the speed limit. It caused us no grief at all.







Despite the barren surface, there were a number of good shade trees throughout the park, although during the time we were in residence, notwithstanding the fact that the skies were clear and blue, the weather was far from tropical!





At this point let me return to the office area to complete our tour of this very interesting park. With the store and associated fuel bowser (again the only one in town), it was no surprise to us that this part of town was a hive of constant activity. What a smart place to locate the town notice board,








and as we read the chalk written notice on it, it was clear that this was a community in which folk pitched in for the common good. Of more interest, we latched onto the small item which indicated that the bar would be open at the nearby Community Centre later this afternoon. We would be definite starters!














And of course, what's a general store in the bush without a post box and a front window full of notes relating to all sorts of items for sale.












Attached to the office and store is the park cafe, in front of which is probably the most important feature of this part of the town.....the town bore.





As the large information board just behind the tank into which the water was flowing made clear, this was no recent addition to the town facilities.








The tank empties the hot artesian water into an open drain which flows a short distance through the park and under the roadway.







From here the water is channelled through much of the town.....a real life giving artery, and for the first 800 metres of its journey to wetlands out near the town airport (more later) a walking and bike track has been developed to allow all and sundry to ramble by the stream!



For us, however, the section of the bore drain which flowed through the park was to play a much more important part in our social life tomorrow. 





It is home to the famous Yowah RFDS Duck Races....yep, duck races....more (much more) to come!












The park has made the most of this artesian flow. These brightly coloured bath houses, clearly modelled on the outrageously expensive bathing huts of the beaches south of Melbourne, actually have no roofs.





Inside, guests are invited to turn on the hot taps and lounge back in the bath tubs provided, either as a couple or singly, with a bottle of bubbles, gazing up at the night stars whilst soaking away the cares of the day. Day use is equally encouraged, but oddly enough we just did not find the time to indulge (as you read more of our Yowah story you will probably understand).












Between the cafe area and the bath huts, a large and well furnished undercover dining area provides the venue for the 'after Duck Race dinner' (and any other big bash which the park may put on...again I'll have more on this later),










whilst a short distance further on, the park units accommodation could not be missed.












The galvanised iron park ablutions and laundry building had a decidedly rustic exterior appearance, but this belied the amenity within.




Rick had built these facilities himself, and, as an experienced caravan traveller, had been keen to ensure that they were of a standard that would delight any using them.









With a smart and well laid tiled floor,
















and a neat wash basin set up, these heads had immediate appeal.

But of both of us the piece de resistance were the scrubs. As Rick explained, when he was on the road one thing which he appreciated above many others was the ability to be able to stand under a strong, hot shower with plenty of room to move.







And although these shower cubicles look a little basic with their cement floors and galv walls, Rick has put his money where his mouth is. Look at the size of the shower head. With a twist of the tap, torrents of hot water flowed. With oodles of 'elbow room', a good 'bits and pieces basket' and plenty of hanging hooks (just out of shot), these were showers to be savoured. Well done Rick....what a treat it was to find these here in a tiny town in the middle of the dry and dusty outback.













Beyond the park units, and at the far side of this site area,












a large (and well used) outdoor fire pit complemented the facilities 













of the usefully equipped camp kitchen. Now normally I would be less than impressed with a pressed dirt floor in such an area, but here it just seemed to fit.







In a room behind the camp kitchen we found the camp book exchange and another unexpected piece of entertaining equipment in the form of a good pool table.











And finally....we had already read that this was a park where arriving with a well developed sense of humour would be an advantage. With notices like this on the camp kitchen wall, Rick and Anne certainly set the scene.




We were soon to learn that the good folk of Yowah are past masters at making their own fun, pitching in when necessary and enjoying life to the full. In my next missive I'll share the hectic social life which enveloped us from day one in this fascinating outback opal town.