We both loved Caloundra on our first visit three years ago. "Would it be the same?", we wondered as we meandered south along the Pacific Highway from Hervey Bay. Well, we are delighted to report that in this world of change, for us, some things have remained constant....we still love Caloundra, and all the changes we noticed were positive. After the adventures of the past months it was a real treat to be able to navigate our way to our new home in Golden Beach without maps or computers. Driving into the town felt very much like 'coming home' in a sense.
Our new found friends, Lyn and Steve Eleftheriou, beat us to the park by about five minutes. Steve's van is bigger than ours by a couple of feet (it is a whopper) and our side by side sites were pretty tight, but we jointly demonstrated our collective backing skills and were both on and settled in no time with a minimum of shouting and angst (and more importantly, no damage).
Golden Beach is located at the southern end of Caloundra on the Pumicestone Passage, the strip of water which separates the mainland from the nearby Bribie Island. High rise apartments are a features of sections of the Esplanade (a tale about this later) and our chosen park is overlooked by several of these, which provides an unusual outlook to say the least. One of the towers can just be seen behind the tree in this shot of the park entrance. Strangely, this backdrop (or 'frontdrop' to be more precise) did not offend.
As can also be seen from this photo, 'The Pumicestone' at this end of the island features many sandy shoals and narrow channels. Navigation through these waters at low tide in anything larger than a flat bottomed punt is not for the unwary, foolish or faint hearted. But what a paradise for those who enjoy fishing across the flats or pumping for nippers and worms for bait.
And what a different picture a full tide presents, particularly on a still, sunny morning, here looking north towards Caloundra city in silhouette against a morning cloud bank,
and here, looking south from the same spot.
A linear park runs for several kilometres along the shoreline of 'The Pumicestone' from Diamond Head in the south to Bulcock Beach and the CBD in the north. We were regular users of this delightful facility and, indeed it forms for us one of the real attractions of this part of Caloundra. To the north, the path passes the sections of the Esplanade which features a strip of modern high rise apartments, both private and holiday rentals,
amongst which can still be found examples of 'old Caloundra' hunched defiantly alongside their more imperious neighbours.
To the south, the paths meander through mangrove boardwalks, stands of pandanus
and on to the low rise Esplanade of south Golden Beach. This walkway is not as 'flash' as The Strand in Townsville but has a variety and charm which we find is just us! And is is well used. The good folk of Caloundra, residents and visitors alike, can be found in their dozens every morning walking, jogging or cycling along this strip. Mind you, as we have agreed, motivation comes much more easily when the 6.30 am temperature is 18 degrees and the sun is well up by that time. The southern section of the walkway takes one past the historic, but oddly short, 'Military Jetty'. This area has particular nostalgic appeal for us in that the park in which we stayed on our last visit is immediately across the road from the jetty.
'Quaint' is probably the most apt description of this particular park. We both fondly recalled the horror we felt when we first arrived (given that this was to be our home for three weeks....including the five days of the UN reunion which was the reason for our visit) and looked down the two narrow, crowded rows of sites interspersed with permanent cabins and somewhat nondescript vans. "What have we done?". Well, this was our first real lesson in the caravan park law of 'books and covers'. We had one of the best times of our travels here. The park manager could not do enough for us (including allowing me to drill bolts into our annex slab to hold down one end of our annex), the permanents were universally welcoming (if not a somewhat eclectic mix), the facilities were spotless and the attached 'chippie' shop sold the best take-away in Caloundra. By the end of the first week Liz had become the surrogate 'camp nurse' and I found myself advising on a wide range of legal matters (sadly, usually in the criminal field...we were rubbing shoulders with the odd rouge or two...but we have never had less concern in any park about our gear). It was a real little community in which each looked out for the other.....we had a ball. Mind you, given that we quickly adapted to the local dress rules where scruffy shorts, thongs and an optional top was de rigeur, mouths did drop when Liz and I presented at the front of the park in ball gown and full mess dress (with medals) on the evening of the formal reunion dinner!
Enough of this reminiscence...on with our walk. Military Jetty lies just beyond the entrance to the main channel of the new (and or course in this part of the world, obligatory) waterways development, 'Pelican Waters'.
Overlooking the channel entrance off The Pumicestone sits this hotel apartment complex and herein lies the tale I promised earlier. And what a typically Queensland tale may I say, even at the risk of appearing a little 'sniffy'. Apparently the channel and the development of the land behind it was approved by the local authorities on the condition that the northern bank of the channel formed the southern limit of permitted high rise development along the passage. And, you guessed it, this complex lies south of the boundary! From what we were told by several locals, its approval created one almighty local storm. Far be it from me to mention the dreaded 'white shoe brigade' mentality, deals and counter deals, and, heaven forbid, an exchange of coin of the realm.........! And whilst I have to say the end result is not unattractive, it remains a very large thorn in many local sides, and is most decidedly the last of anything over two stories high from this point southwards to the extremity of Diamond Head where the Esplanade finishes.Now, at this point, I must comment that I've not provided much of late in the way of 'local quirky'. May I respectfully suggest that the sight of an Australian White Ibis acting as a weather vane on a suburban garage roof fits the bill!
Certainly not something commonly seen in Adelaide.
A walk north along The Pumicestone also provides some interesting sights and allows me to remedy another slight shortfall in my recent offerings....a dearth of 'big things'.
Because of the sand banks and shoals which lie north of Moreton Bay, movement into and out of the main port of Brisbane by all shipping, large and small, necessitates passage along a very narrow channel which lies just beyond the western shore of Bribie Island. The light pictured forms a lead with another situated on the island itself which provide for the safe passage of the vessels using the channel at a critical turning point.
Indeed, one of the sights of Caloundra is that of enormous cruise ships making their way north out of Brisbane, particularly at dusk. They pass so close to Bribie Island before turning west into the Coral Sea that all the upper decks can be clearly seen over the island vegetation from every first floor balcony along the Esplanade. With their lights ablaze, and the need for reduced speed, the sight of these seagoing leviathans gliding silently behind the island no more than two miles distant is a breathtaking spectacle.
The walkway along The Pumicestone ends with arrival at the CBD. Caloundra, as can be seen from the filched aerial shot included earlier, was built on the hills of the headland just to the north of the mouth of the passage. Bulcock Beach, with its recently redeveloped quays and high rise apartments, cafes and restaurants
is what could be called the 'town beach'. It is really the northern bank of the passage (here seen looking west to the quay)
which, as can be seen in this photo taken at 180 degrees from the last, lies just inside the mouth of the passage to the open sea at the northern most tip of Bribie Island.
Although this is a still water beach, the tidal flow can be quite strong at times. In fact there are some local stalwarts who beef up their swimming training by deliberately splashing away against the tide, which, on a good day, can be running at up to three knots.
From this part of the walkway views back across The Pumicestone also include a glimpse of the tops of the famous Glasshouse Mountains, so named by Captain Cook in 1770 because their reflections and shapes reminded him of the glass manufacturing houses of his part of England at that time.
They are indeed spectacular features, the remnants of volcanic plugs of rock so hard that each has remained whilst all around them has eroded away over the Milena.
Further around the point the walkway morphs into a boardwalk
which ends at Kings Beach, the first of Caloundra's open sea surf beaches (and the last with white sand) here seen looking south.
Kings Beach is a touch like Glenelg in that the surrounds boast holiday rentals, cafes and an open square area complete with water features and entertainment for the kids.
And like Glenelg, it is somewhat congested and parking spots are at a constant premium. Here one will find the first of Caloundra's two Surf Lifesaving Clubs, Metropolitan Caloundra.
The views from the glassed in balcony across Kings Beach and south along the western side of Bribie Island and the shipping channel into Moreton Bay from the dining and bar area of the club are magnificent. As is the food. We were hoping against hope that on the one evening we dined here there would be some action in the shipping channel, but apart from one tramp steamer, things were disappointingly quiet.
But there was a consolation of sorts. Now I know you have all just been hanging out for another 'Pete knows everyone' story....well this is the first of Caloundra's two. We had only just begun to eat when Liz looked up, gave me a nudge, and suggested that a chap about to order was someone I knew. Sure enough. Greg O'Neill is a retired SAPOL Superintendent of my vintage. Moreover, Liz and I had shared a table with Greg and his wife at the PCOM Xmas function at the Morphettville racecourse last December. And it gets even better. After effusive greetings, Greg, who was in Caloundra visiting family (who incidentally do not live locally, but were here on holidays themselves), commented that it had only been a week or so previously that his wife had asked if he had heard anything of us and our adventures. I suggested to Greg that much could be made of his dedication to fulfil his wife's every wish, even to tracking us down to Caloundra.
And whilst I'm at it, the second of these yarns. Two days in at Golden Beach Caravan Park a bloke from a mobile home some sites away wandered over to our van and enquired as to when I had been in Cyprus (he recognised the ribbon set). To cut a very long story short, he had been stationed there as part of a twenty strong RAAF missile team working with the Brit airforce (the Brits maintained three airforce bases on the island) and had spent many a fine hour imbibing at the Australian Civpol HQ in Limassol (a large Cypriot southern coastal town) in early 1971. I arrived at Limassol in May 1971. Whilst there was no personal recognition between us, we concluded that it was highly likely we may well have been in the same bar throng at some stage (and things did get a bit willing from time to time in our Mess) all those years ago. How utterly extraordinary!
But back to Caloundra and the continuing tale of the local beaches (what else?). Beyond Kings Beach and progressing further to the north around the Caloundra headland the white sand becomes yellow and gritty, a feature of Shelly, Moffat and finally the most well known of all, Dicky Beach, previously know as North Caloundra (or at least the surf club was). Why Dicky Beach?...well the sign says it all,
and here is all that now remains of that good ship and true.
The surf club here is set well back from the beach. It has a large membership and a very well run catering and bar set up. We ate here a couple of times during our previous visit, and have since decided that the ambiance and views from the Met. Caloundra SLSC are much more to our liking. (no...still not homesick!!)
And notwithstanding the fact that Dicky Beach, here seen looking south towards the headland, is a fine beach, we both decided that it was Kings Beach for us (if we could only work out how to park easily!)
As I mentioned earlier, the headland area of Caloundra was the first part to be settled and now hosts a mass of high rise buildings (and others) on its hilly terrain. Even most of the lower of the multi-storey buildings provide views,
whilst the serious big boys certainly do.
The main commercial street of 'old' Caloundra runs parallel to Bulcock Beach and few streets north of it, and although it is somewhat narrow and parking, of course, is a nightmare, we find it charming.
I would hate to give the impression that The Pumicestone, the beaches and the old CBD area are all there is to Caloundra. Quite extensive 'normal' suburban housing areas extend northwards and to the west together with all the expected shopping centres and so on. But, frankly, this can be found anywhere, so I've not bothered.
The RSL, Power Boat and Bowls Clubs all provide for excellent and relatively cheap nights out (complete with that wonder of the eastern states...the courtesy bus) and the public swimming pool with its 50 and 25 metre pools and inviting lawned surrounds, are other aspects of Caloundra which suit us down to the ground.
Let me conclude this part of our Caloundra experience with two dinners, both completely different, but which we enjoyed in equal measure for equally different reasons.
As I had promised the Elefth's, I finally broke out the frozen mackerel fillets which had travelled with us from Kurrimine Beach and we sat down to a fine meal of crumbed fish, mash and salad, chez Marshies. And, hooray, I have finally found someone else who insists that beetroot is an indispensable ingredient of such a feast. Cheers, Steve!
Yes, I know, those bloody pants again.
And for a completely different dining experience, we joined Julie and John Walker, our hosts during the UN Forces reunion here three years ago, for a sumptuous BBQ at their newly acquired unit on Kawana Island (some 15 kms north of Caloundra). The ambiance (we sat overlooking the water), charming fellow dinner guests and great food and wine all served (only realised what a good pun this is during editing!) to provide us with a memorable farewell to what remains one of our favourite places in Oz.
Next stop, Sawtell, via Murwillimbah and Grafton. But before we finally leave Caloundra there is the tale of the visit to Rainbow Beach and Inskip Point, where I embarrassingly had to prove that the shovel I carry is not for mere show and that I really do know how to dig the tug out of a bog. Stay tuned!
P.S. Apologies for the dicky photo placements. As all who have blogged will attest, there are times when the victory is not worth the battle when the computer is in 'mind of its own' mode!
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