Albany's past is inexorably linked to whaling. 'Whale World', located on the site of the old Cheynes Beach whaling station, is a major tourist attraction. What is not so well know is that this station is a relatively recent development.
The discovery of the so called 'Sealers Oven', a domed structure built atop granite rocks not far above the high water mark on a a river estuary near Albany, suggests that whaling operations were being conducted in this area in the very early 1800's. The famed 'Yankee whalers' were operating all over the world at that time and the cetaceans of southern Australia did not escape their attention.
In fact the presence of these ships and other 'foreign' whaling vessels which operated in the waters near Fremantle at the same time was a matter of great contention and conflict. The early Swan River Colony settlers were outraged by what they considered to be the plundering of their natural resources and eventually the newly formed Government of WA banned the incursion of foreign ships....not that they could enforce it! Does all this sound familiar?
Back to Albany. The whaling station at Frenchman Bay was originally developed by the Albany Whaling company which operated out of this facility between 1947 and 1950 when the economics of their industry proved non-viable. Undaunted, the newly formed Cheynes Beach Whaling company took over in 1952 and they remained in business (just) until whaling in Australia was formally banned in 1978.
As I mentioned in a former blog, neither Liz nor I had any interest in advancing our personal knowledge of how whales were killed or processed beyond what we already know, so our visit to the Frenchman Bay facility was for an outside look only, where the most obvious exhibit is the last of the whale chasers to have been used commercially.
To be fair, there is much more on offer here than filmed presentation of whale kills, but not sufficient to part us from our 'hard earned'.
In addition to the old whaling station, Frenchman Bay, as this southern side of King George Sound is known (from Baudin exploration days....yep he popped in here too!), harbours (deliberate..too good to resist!) a small boat marina from which one can take in good views across the Sound with the bulk carriers lying at anchor in the roads.
Looking further to the right we can see Michaelmas and Breaksea Islands and the bulky head of Flinders Peninsula which marks the southern entrance to King George Sound. The somewhat odd name of 'Michaelmas' stems from the fact that it was first sighted by Captain George Vancouver (mentioned in the previous blog) on 29 September (1771), St Michaelmas Day, as day dawned over the 'Discovery' and the 'Chatham' which had crept into the shelter of the Sound and dropped anchor in the darkness of the previous night.
The meandering coastline surrounding Albany has allowed for the creation of many sheltered beaches, some long, some tiny. Goode Beach, which lies along the eastern side of Vancouver Peninsula and Point Possession, is one of the finest.
In this somewhat 'distant' shot, which I've include in an attempt to provide some perspective, the white sandy strip of Goode Beach can just be seen left mid shot. Beyond this, right on the left side horizon, you can just make out some of the housing of old Albany below the peak of Mount Clarence. As I have previously lamented from time to time, there are occasional frustrating limits to my photographic equipment and abilities.
As we made our way towards Goode Beach for a better look, we passed a point where one of the much smaller, but in my view (unintentional!) equally appealing coves presented itself. The whaling station actually lies on the coast beyond the point of land at the end of this small beach, with the Sound entrance in the distance (I hope this is making some sense).
And it was from this same vantage point that we had another 'little and large' experience' a 50,000 tonne bulk carrier and a bloke fishing from his 'tinny'. I know which I would rather be on!
The road to Goode Beach took us past a vantage point overlooking the Sound, but it was not so much that which attracted my attention but the sense of humour which resulted in this addition to the relevant roadside sign (and it wasn't permanent...the uses to which black tape can be put are extensive!)
As we made our way towards Goode Beach for a better look, we passed a point where one of the much smaller, but in my view (unintentional!) equally appealing coves presented itself. The whaling station actually lies on the coast beyond the point of land at the end of this small beach, with the Sound entrance in the distance (I hope this is making some sense).
And it was from this same vantage point that we had another 'little and large' experience' a 50,000 tonne bulk carrier and a bloke fishing from his 'tinny'. I know which I would rather be on!
The road to Goode Beach took us past a vantage point overlooking the Sound, but it was not so much that which attracted my attention but the sense of humour which resulted in this addition to the relevant roadside sign (and it wasn't permanent...the uses to which black tape can be put are extensive!)
Looking north, the extent of the beach strip becomes obvious. It is unfortunate that this day was overcast. In bright sunlight, the almost blindingly white sands of this part of the country, and the varying blue hues of the crystal clear waters which lap the shore, are stunning.
Off to more rugged natural wonders....Salmon Holes, The Blowhole, Natural Bridge, and The Gap. An arrival Salmon Holes brings with it a confrontation with more signs..... their messages salutary indeed.
I was more than impressed to see that this cautionary tablet even showed how to tie a bowline knot, the only thing to use in these situations.
And for those proposing aquatic activities other than rock fishing, there was this warning
and right beside it, in complete contrast, this most informative message about the migration patterns of the main area fishing target
together with the type of formal invitation we have only ever seen here in the west....'Hang out along the coast, be cool and go with the flow'. Someone in authority over here has done his or her market research and definitely knows the market! It was just so good to see such a totally non-pretentious and inviting government sign.
So do the Salmon Holes live up to the hype? I can't yet comment about the fishing, but as far as the rest goes they sure do. Even on this relatively benign day the swells of the southern ocean were flopping onto the shore and against the rocks with an imperious and understated power. And there is always the danger of the 'rogue wave', a phenomenon widely whispered about by old sea salts, something which for years was roundly 'poo-pooed' by science and which has now been conclusively proven to exist. The southern ocean is a prime breeding ground for such a monster.
A descent to the beach or rocks of Salmon Holes laden with fishing gear is not for the feint-hearted or the infirm.
The northern end of this marvellous beach ends in sloping granite rocks from which those intrepid rock-hoppers who chase the migrating salmon from this vantage point are encouraged to tie of to one of the many hard points sunk into the rock face for their benefit.
At the other end of the cove, this stretch of the pristine white sand gives way to long plates of sloping granite impassable to any without feathers or fins.
By the time we return to Albany the salmon run should be in full swing....I have promised myself at least one day here at Salmon Holes well armed with my beach rod and pilchards.
So with dreams of piscatorial conquest still swirling around in my mind we headed off to ogle (with the many others 'doing the circuit' this particular morning) at the splendour of the Blowhole.
I had previously read that this natural saline geyser is spasmodic in its performances to say the least. We nevertheless approached the top of the 800 metre long path to its location with the hope of those who have little other alternative.
One of the telling signs of possible spouting activity is the wave movement at the base of the nearby Peak Head. As the path brought this so aptly named lump of granite and yet another tiny beach cove into view, I did suggest to Liz that she should curb what limited enthusiasm she was exhibiting to that point! Sadly I was proven correct.
But irrespective of the indeterminate outcome of our quest, the venture to the Blowhole produced its own scenic rewards as the thick low coastal scrub of the upper end of the track
began to lose the fight for survival amongst the ever increasing tumble of granite rocks
only to finally concede any chance of life altogether on these barren slabs at the end of the pathway.
Where is the Blowhole? There were no path markers, and indeed the only indication that this place attracted considerable human attention at all was this extraordinary life buoy system.
Rather than make any attempt to paraphrase the instructional notice on the post, I'll leave you to ponder the incredible impracticality of some of the points for yourself.
Clearly poor old Nathan Drew did not have the benefit of such a lifesaving devise at some (obviously terminal) point in his life.
Nor, I suspect, did he have the incredible succour of someone encouraging him 'not to panic' as he contemplated his best path to safety whilst floundering about, undoubtedly fully clothed, in unforgiving, boiling surf at the base of a sheer rock wall, with the nearest beach over half a kilometre away.
Having closely looked at this system and the area in which it is supposed to operate, I formed the firm conclusion that heaving one of these balls to some poor unfortunate taking an unplanned dip below the Blowhole would do nothing more than delay the inevitable. But hopefully they would take heed of the advice from above and not panic as they drowned or were dashed to death on the rocks!
In all my reasonably broad lifesaving and emergency response experience I have never come across such a dangerously and farcically false impression creating bit of kit in my life, not least because there is every chance that anyone attempting to locate the position at the edge of the rock from which to 'roll the ball' to someone below stands every chance of following it and joining the impromptu frolic in the surf unless firmly secured with a lifeline from a hard point in the rock (you guessed it....none to be found)
But let's move on. After casting about a bit on the rock slabs I finally came across another notice
and there it was, a relatively small slit in the rock face, from which not a drop of water was ejected skywards in the time we waited. That's it folks, The Blowhole! I must admit that as I was standing near this fissure one wave, which was somewhat larger than the average, did create a particularly loud boom as it rolled into the opening beneath the hole....but it remained a sound show only. But at least we had found it.
Next stop, Natural Bridge and The Gap, two natural rock features which are quite close together. This part of the Australian coastline is part of that which was originally joined to the Antarctic continent many millions of years ago before they spit apart. Rocks found in this area are apparently identical to those to be found in the Windmill Island area of Antarctica. The two land masses are continuing to drift further apart....at the frightening rate of 5cm per year! How on earth scientists can measure this is quite beyond me.
The pathway to the Natural Bridge meanders through a boulder strewn landscape which is really quite spectacular,
as are the enormous granite blocks, some of which seem to be teetering tenuously above the sea below.
A very solid viewing platform allows the curious to peer into the void below to take in the sight of the Bridge.
And there it was, an arch formed by the weathering and eventual dislodgement of the rocks which originally joined the bottom of the arch to those below. Like the ill-fated limestone arch of the Twelve Apostles coast, this bridge is doomed to an inevitable collapse at some stage, but not at any time soon.
From here we retraced our steps across this barren, rocky hill to reach another viewing platform over The Gap.
This aerial shot I lifted from the Internet hopefully gives some idea of the ruggedness of this section of coast. The Gap is at the end of the 'V' shaped formation centre shot.
It was very difficult to actually photograph the entire fissure from the platform above it
so I have resorted to providing these two shots which hopefully give some idea of the length and depth of this granite slit. It is big, believe me. Apparently, when the Blowhole is working, the waves crashing into The Gap also fling spray upwards in an equally spectacular display. I have since come across advice as to when these two areas are most likely to be at their best...when there is a large and deep low pressure system in the Southern Ocean to the south of this coast. I shall be keeping an eye out on our return to Albany for just such an event.
But for now it was back to our digs, en route to which we popped in for a look at the Albany Sailing club which is situated on the southern side of Princess Royal Harbour
and the Limeburners Distillery a little further towards the town on Frenchman Bay Road.
My very good friend John Finlay-Jones had presented me with a tasting of the single malt product of this distillery a few weeks previously....I was keen to embark on a further tasting exploration of their products. It was not to be. Sure, a tasting was available....at $15 per half nip! And the cheapest bottle of single malt we could find on display carried the price tag of a mere $130. But I was still keen. They make a great brew. The treasurer by this stage was approaching terminal apoplexy. With my left ear lobe firmly pinched between her finger and thumb we left empty handed....these prices were way beyond the modest budget of the Mobile Marshies! Thank you JFJ...at least I've tasted it!
What a stunning day of spectacular sight-seeing we had had. The coastline of the Albany Flinders Peninsula and beyond is certainly something out of the 'sight-seeing box'.
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