Well, now that we had settled into our new digs, it was time to see what Bremer Bay has to offer the inquisitive traveller. This is not a large town. It is nestled on the Wellstead Estuary, a fluctuating (and at the moment land locked) body of water which is at the business end of the Bremer River.
Excluding the waves of tourists, which break over Bremer Bay in their thousands during the long summer holidays (and just about every other extended break), the resident population is in the order of 300 or so. In the course of our three week stay here we met quite a few of them and were greeted with a genuine warmth and hospitality which was a real feature of our visit.
There are a number of very good reasons for the popularity of this area as a holiday destination. Bremer Bay is rightly renowned for the variety and beauty of its nearby beaches, it is a fishing paradise both on and off shore, several areas offer very good waves for those who surf and the local sporting complex welcomes casual bowlers and golfers. Many also come to Bremer Bay to 'whale watch'. At this time of the year the two large boats catering to this need take those who are prepared to shell out the $350 day trip fee out to the Bremer Canyon where killer whales are on the prowl. Between July and October each year Southern Rights come to the area to give birth to their calves. I'll have more to say about the extraordinary Bremer Canyon later.
The town itself lies on the Western Australian south coast, about 180 kms east of Albany and some 515 kms south-east of Perth. The name Bremer Bay has an interesting history. John Septimus Roe, the WA explorer about whom we have spoken before, originally named only the bay itself after Sir James Bremer, the (then) captain of the British warship HMS Tamar. Bremer had a close connection with colonial Australia in that it was he who was dispatched to Melville Island in 1824 to claim the northern section of the continent for Mother England.
Bremer Bay was initially named 'Wellstead' after John Wellstead who settled in the area in 1850 (more of the Wellsteads later), but in 1951 the good burghers of the then tiny township petitioned the Government to change this to Bremer Bay. Obviously they were successful, but not quickly....the name change was eventually formally gazetted in 1962! Nothing moves rapidly in WA except rising Government fees and charges (WA is also known to stand for 'wait awhile', in this case with very good reason).
Apart from tourism, which is now critical to the town's survival (it's a pity the relevant authorities did not see fit to have a digital TV broadcast system established when analogue was removed), Bremer Bay is a local farming hub and supports a small but thriving commercial fishing industry where the few vessels of the fleet harbour safely in the delightfully picturesque Fishery Beach marina, a spot which now holds deep affection for your scribe in another role......more of this later, too.
Western blue pilchards are the primary target for those who venture seawards from the marina.
These and other species are processed at the local Bremer Fish Processors factory in the commercial area of the town. I visited these premises quite early on in our visit, lured inexorably through the doors by a large sign advertising 'Yummy Prawns' with a sub title noting that they were sourced from South Australia. Spencer Gulf prawns no less....what a find!
My excited salivation was sadly short-lived, cruelly, coldly and callously curtailed when I reported back breathlessly to the keeper of the purse....$30 a kilo for 'mediums' was beyond our budget. Ah, well, domestic harmony has to be worth more than the fleeting delights of a munched crustacean, but I did twitch each time I drove past....and these were frequent....the factory stood on the road between our camp and my fishing grounds.
An inescapable feature of Bremer Bay is the single wind turbine which towers 42 metres above the ridge immediately behind our caravan park, and which can be seen from just about everywhere in the town and beyond. This might give a clue to the weather here, and it is correct. WA....'windy always', but in fairness, one of the other advantages of Bremer Bay beaches is that it is rare that a sheltered cove cannot be found in any weather conditions. I was staggered to find that there is absolutely no security fence surrounding this massive piece of infrastructure,
This wind turbine is part of the wind-diesel hybrid system which provides electrical power to the town. The turbine itself contributes 40% of this requirement, and as I have mentioned previously, dominates most landscapes, including our caravan site. It did prove to be a handy addition to my van flag in determining wind direction at any time!
A lookout tower just below the wind turbine provides marvellous views over Bremer Bay and its surrounds.
Panning to the left from the view of the town presented at the beginning of this missive, the commercial area comes into view. The road through the farm lands into the town can be seen here at the right of the shot.
This lookout also provides a good view of one of the many huge sandhills, the blindingly white tops of which rear up out of the surrounding scrub.
From here we can also see the landlocked end of the Wellstead Estuary and the adjoining sands of Main Beach.
Whilst on the subject of the estuary, I was particularly dismayed to find that notices posted at many points along the banks cautioned against contact with the water. So much for my plans to spend many hours plying the estuary on my much travelled kayak, something I had been really looking forward to.
Interestingly, the ban on water sports prompted by the algal blooms in the estuary waters, did not extend to fishing, notwithstanding the symbol on this sign. At least I was able to indulge in one challenge of the Wellstead Estuary....hooking black bream. More of that later.
For now, let's complete a quick, limited tour of the Bremer Bay township. From a housing perspective this is indeed a town in parts, where the old
and the new often stand side by side in a town where the bustle of new development is obvious.
Accommodation here ranges from the very up-market to the ramshackle.....I'll not bore you with more than the two examples provided.
Many new homes are under construction, some of which were obviously 'works in progress' where, very much like areas such as Yorke Peninsula in SA, the first thing to go up on the block is a large shed which acts as a base for those engaged in weekend construction of the more permanent dwelling planned for the site.
Sadly, the residents of, and visitors to, Bremer Bay are not well served when it comes to shopping for foodstuffs. The General Store carries a limited range of goods, all with price tags I could not believe when I first saw them, such as the example of the mullet bait I provided earlier.
Fresh fruit and vegetables were in very poor supply and, in many instances, of dubious quality. On one occasion our enquiry about the empty bread shelves (on a Monday) was met with the response that, "this comes in on Thursdays". Surely a twice weekly delivery of a fresh loaf or two is not asking too much. And with mark-ups of what we estimated to be at least 20% above what we would expect to pay in a normal supermarket, we quite understood why most permanent residents of Bremer Bay consider a fortnightly return trip to Albany for a good 'stock-up' is both worthwhile and cost effective, despite the 360 kms involved.
Just beyond the General Store is the rambling building of the Bremer Bay community centre. This also incorporates the local pharmacy, which, on the advice of The Matron, is the complete antitheses of the General Store....well stocked and reasonably priced.
At this point I invite you to note the 'tea cup' at the edge of the footpath. These are a feature of Bremer Bay. They pop up everywhere and are a wonderfully inventive way of recycling old tyres. We never quite got to the bottom of the origins of this initiative, but did discover that the Bremer Bay locals plant them out with various flowers at different times of the year to observe annual events and commemorative dates. For example, whilst we were there, the local newspaper was encouraging the planting of any yellow flowers to support the upcoming Cancer Awareness week.....outstanding stuff....creative, simple and decorative and a great way in which to recycle old tyres.
We did venture into the Community Centre on arrival. Here the tourist information assistance we received from the most welcoming staff was exemplary.
Immediately beyond this complex are the green lawns and buildings of the local school
and in a nearby street, the original Emergency Services shed which now houses the Pelican Op Shop. On Wednesdays and Saturdays this place bustles with activity. The range of donated goods on offer is extraordinary and there are some serious bargains to be found. Everything from used clothing to fishing gear, household goods and books are on offer. All activity is managed by volunteer staff and the proceeds are used for the betterment of Bremer Bay generally.
I was more than happy to donate to the cause of this wonderful initiative during our visit. The Treasurer had approved my purchase of a new double burner fish smoker on the condition the collapsible unit which had served me so well in Port Denison was ditched. Done. Another addition to the stock at the Pelican Op Shop. I hope its new owner has equal success in its use as I. Again, more on the new acquisition later!
Separated from the main 'CBD' by the Bremer Bay entrance road, is the designated commercial area. Apart from the fish processing factory, here we found the local hardware store and a real surprise.
In addition to the almost obligatory tea cups at the entrance
it was the sign on the car park fence which really attracted our attention on our first visit to this extremely well stocked emporium. I mean to say, how often does one do one's meat shopping at a hardware store? "I'll have a can of oil, two metres of security chain, a fish smoker, and, yes of course, two packs of sausages and one of mince, thank you." Extraordinary!
Between the nearby dive and surf shop
and the Bremer Bay Roadhouse, which incorporates Monaghan's Cafe, from which freshly baked (daily) white rolls, good quality pastries, fast foods and another limited range of groceries and veggies could be had,
stands a stark reminder of what Bremer Bay used to be.
We could only guess at how many years this original 'petrol station' had been the hub of all things mechanical in this tiny seaside town.
Regular readers may have noted that this township tour has been devoid of any mention of pubs and clubs. Be assured this does not mean they remained unvisited! The sports club in particular played a prominent role in our Bremer Bay social life, which was extensive and, at times, hectic (one reason for the delay in these blogs)
More of this, the picturesque and productive local beaches, fishing and other odds and sods in coming episodes.
it was the sign on the car park fence which really attracted our attention on our first visit to this extremely well stocked emporium. I mean to say, how often does one do one's meat shopping at a hardware store? "I'll have a can of oil, two metres of security chain, a fish smoker, and, yes of course, two packs of sausages and one of mince, thank you." Extraordinary!
Between the nearby dive and surf shop
and the Bremer Bay Roadhouse, which incorporates Monaghan's Cafe, from which freshly baked (daily) white rolls, good quality pastries, fast foods and another limited range of groceries and veggies could be had,
stands a stark reminder of what Bremer Bay used to be.
We could only guess at how many years this original 'petrol station' had been the hub of all things mechanical in this tiny seaside town.
Regular readers may have noted that this township tour has been devoid of any mention of pubs and clubs. Be assured this does not mean they remained unvisited! The sports club in particular played a prominent role in our Bremer Bay social life, which was extensive and, at times, hectic (one reason for the delay in these blogs)
More of this, the picturesque and productive local beaches, fishing and other odds and sods in coming episodes.
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