"Much of the appeal of Coles Bay and Freycinet National Park is that they
have remained timeless. Today people still come to the area to "get
away from it all". They fish in the waters of Great Oyster Bay, which are still rich in trevally, flathead, crayfish and trumpeter."
So says 'Aussie Towns', and 'so say all of us' (well your scribe at least)! Of all we saw and did in Tasmania, and despite the fact that our visit here was fleeting to say the least, I would rate Coles Bay as a town in which I could happily spend a great deal of time. Indeed that is very much the plan on our return visit.
What a magnificent scene this is, one for which I remain indebted to 'Discover Tasmania'.
Here we can see the small township of Coles Bay nestled on the wedge of land centre shot, with the peaks of Mounts Graham and Freycinet beyond, the isthmus and Wine Glass Bay to the left and the lower waters of Moulting Lagoon at the lower left. The long strip of sand running between Coles Bay down towards the bottom of the shot are those we visited a few days ago......Dolphin Sands or Nine Mile Beach, take your pick.
Tranquillity, breathtaking scenery, beautiful beaches and great fishing in the generally calm waters of Great Oyster Bay. This, for me, is about as grand as it gets.
There are a few caravan parks in the area. We chose not to stay there for a few reasons, increasingly demanding time constraints being the foremost. Despite the extension to our stay on the Apple Isle, we knew that we were running out of time to do all we had planned.
So, for this trip, we took a quick drive only around the town en route back to Swansea after the earlier part of the day spent tramping the Freycinet. Liz snapped away as I drove into the centre of town,
where we came across the very well set up local convenience store and information centre strategically located on a street which leads directly down to the foreshore.
We found a temporary parking spot on 'the front' from which we could see back up the 'main street' and take in a few of the lovely homes of the town.
This stop gave me the chance to hop out and snap a couple of shots of some of the bay moorings off to the east,
and the jetty and boat launching ramps in the opposite direction.
Whilst many of the homes here in Coles Bay spoke to no shortage of where-with- all, neat houses atop manicured lawns,
our quick toddle down to the jetty area did take us through the 'back blocks' where we found the 'other side' to this town, homes nestled in real bush settings.
Another quick shot as we cruised through, this time of the jetty area and in particular the HQ and departure point of the Wine Bay Cruises, with the ever present peaks as a backdrop.
Naturally enough, many here have built for the view, and why on earth not?
I've waxed so lyrical bout this town and presented so little of it, let me conclude this whistle-stop tour with a photo from the 'real estate' website (and KnightFrank, obviously) which I hope provides a better feel for this beautiful little town where the slogan of those who sell property rings utterly true....'Location, location, location'!
Next stop, the oddly named Friendly Beaches. I've spent some time (far too much actually...no wonder I'm so far behind!) trying to establish why this expanse of sand was so called, and have drawn a complete blank.
The beach and associated campground lie on coast north of Coles Bay, accessed along an unsealed road in off the main highway.
The sea was soon in view as we meandered down the last stretch of the entrance road.
And here in the car park we found yet another of the ubiquitous island signs advertising the 60 Great Short Walks,
and here too we found another of the east coast beaches which combine long stretches of open sand,
with dividing outcrops of shoreline rocks.
Like Coles Bay, this was very much a 'tick and flick' visit, and we did not tarry long. I should comment that for those appropriately equipped the camp ground was certainly inviting, but it was not for us.
One of the 'must see' attractions in this area lies just to the south of Swansea. We had driven past it on our initial trip up the east coast. Now we had the time to take a better look and once again dive back into Tasmanian history and its convict past.
This comes in the form of another bridge (which now stands just off the main highway), convict built like its counterparts in Richmond, Ross and Campbell Town, but with nothing of the grace and style of that trio.
But what Spiky Bridge lacks in architectural beauty, it makes up for in two other ways.....its uniquely odd 'decoration' and the story of how it came into being.
Let's begin with the story.
As the east coast was settled in the early 1800's, the back breaking work of road and other construction around the Swansea area was undertaken by a convict labour force, housed at the nearby Rocky Hill Probation Station. This charming government guest house was under the control of one Major de Gillern.
The local settlers had been agitating for some time for a proper road to be constructed to join Swansea and nearby Little Swanport. This was not an unreasonable request in the scheme of things at the time, but all decisions as to the deployment of the convict work force lay entirely with de Gillern, and for some reason he was unmoved by these petitions.
Edward Shaw of 'Redbanks', a large farm near Swansea, was at the fore in pushing for the new road. The constant rebuffs he received from de Gillern eventually became too much for him and he finally found a way to convince the intransigent Major of the worthiness of the cause.
The story has it that after a card evening, Shaw offered de Gillern a ride home to the Probation Station. This drive involved negotiating the gully where the bridge now stands. With his antagonist firmly ensconced in his gig, Shaw, it is said, then drove the flimsy carriage through the gully at breakneck speed to impress upon the recalcitrant Major that the need for improvements were real.
Clearly the good Major was not a man of superior courage, or it may be that he really just need a jolt (literally).
Shortly after this very practical demonstration of the need, the convicts were duly assembled, the fieldstones gathered, and in 1843 the bridge became a reality (thanks to 'exploreaustralia' for this photo...those I took were terrible for some reason).
Apart from the spikes (more shortly) one of the other unusual features of this bridge is its drainage system. An opening in the side wall, similar to a ship's scupper, allowed for the discharge of water from the road surface down the side of the bridge (and thanks to 'On The Convict Trail' for this shot).
But enough of this clever stuff....what about the spikes?
There are three theories.
The first has it that the spikes were a form of fence designed to prevent wandering stock from falling off the bridge into the gully below.....possible (?).
Other folk have argued they were put there to stop those who wished to end it all by jumping to their deaths.....highly improbable in my view...the gully is not that deep and negotiating the spikes would have been a doddle for one hell bent on self-destruction.
Finally it is said that this odd ornamentation was the result of a spot of convict disobedience when those beavering away decided to slight their supervisor by inserting stones the wrong way. Given the levels of discipline imposed on the convicts of the time and the penalties exacted on those who misbehaved, I find this concept challenging to say the least.
Anyway, whatever the reason, the rocky spikes atop the walls of this otherwise relatively insignificant piece of colonial construction have guaranteed it enduring attention, something which would not have happened otherwise.
More excellent east coast beaches are to be found in this same area, but I think we've had enough of the Swansea area sand between our toes for the time.
Let me conclude what had been a most entertaining stay in Swansea with only our second trip to a cellar door and one of the social highlights of our Tasmanian trip.
As I mentioned briefly in an earlier offering, for our last two days in Swansea we were joined by Sue and Kevin, grand friends from Adelaide who were hurtling around the island at light speed compared to us. And for once, 'Murphy' did not interfere with our long pre-planned rendezvous here on the east coast.
We decided to celebrate this meeting with a visit to what we now consider to be one of Tasmania's best wineries, Devil's Corner, located only a few kilometres north of Swansea. Liz and I had briefly called in on our return from the Freycinet, and thought then that this would make the ideal venue for a grand day out with friends.
Apart from food and wine, the highway entrance sign promotes the "stunning" views....I'll let you be the judge.
With the Cruiser lined up with everyone else in the necessarily long car park (this place is more than popular)
we wandered along the entrance roadway to a feature not often found at a cellar door....
a lookout tower.
What an inspired idea this is. Below its lofty heights lay what must be one of Tassie's highlight scenes.
Vineyards, rows of sheltering trees, the waters of Moulting Lagoon and the jagged peaks of the Hazards all combine to present this breathtaking picture (much better in reality than depicted here in this photo).
We could even just make out the homes of Coles Bay in the far distance.
Let's begin with the story.
As the east coast was settled in the early 1800's, the back breaking work of road and other construction around the Swansea area was undertaken by a convict labour force, housed at the nearby Rocky Hill Probation Station. This charming government guest house was under the control of one Major de Gillern.
The local settlers had been agitating for some time for a proper road to be constructed to join Swansea and nearby Little Swanport. This was not an unreasonable request in the scheme of things at the time, but all decisions as to the deployment of the convict work force lay entirely with de Gillern, and for some reason he was unmoved by these petitions.
Edward Shaw of 'Redbanks', a large farm near Swansea, was at the fore in pushing for the new road. The constant rebuffs he received from de Gillern eventually became too much for him and he finally found a way to convince the intransigent Major of the worthiness of the cause.
The story has it that after a card evening, Shaw offered de Gillern a ride home to the Probation Station. This drive involved negotiating the gully where the bridge now stands. With his antagonist firmly ensconced in his gig, Shaw, it is said, then drove the flimsy carriage through the gully at breakneck speed to impress upon the recalcitrant Major that the need for improvements were real.
Clearly the good Major was not a man of superior courage, or it may be that he really just need a jolt (literally).
Shortly after this very practical demonstration of the need, the convicts were duly assembled, the fieldstones gathered, and in 1843 the bridge became a reality (thanks to 'exploreaustralia' for this photo...those I took were terrible for some reason).
Apart from the spikes (more shortly) one of the other unusual features of this bridge is its drainage system. An opening in the side wall, similar to a ship's scupper, allowed for the discharge of water from the road surface down the side of the bridge (and thanks to 'On The Convict Trail' for this shot).
But enough of this clever stuff....what about the spikes?
There are three theories.
The first has it that the spikes were a form of fence designed to prevent wandering stock from falling off the bridge into the gully below.....possible (?).
Other folk have argued they were put there to stop those who wished to end it all by jumping to their deaths.....highly improbable in my view...the gully is not that deep and negotiating the spikes would have been a doddle for one hell bent on self-destruction.
Finally it is said that this odd ornamentation was the result of a spot of convict disobedience when those beavering away decided to slight their supervisor by inserting stones the wrong way. Given the levels of discipline imposed on the convicts of the time and the penalties exacted on those who misbehaved, I find this concept challenging to say the least.
Anyway, whatever the reason, the rocky spikes atop the walls of this otherwise relatively insignificant piece of colonial construction have guaranteed it enduring attention, something which would not have happened otherwise.
More excellent east coast beaches are to be found in this same area, but I think we've had enough of the Swansea area sand between our toes for the time.
Let me conclude what had been a most entertaining stay in Swansea with only our second trip to a cellar door and one of the social highlights of our Tasmanian trip.
As I mentioned briefly in an earlier offering, for our last two days in Swansea we were joined by Sue and Kevin, grand friends from Adelaide who were hurtling around the island at light speed compared to us. And for once, 'Murphy' did not interfere with our long pre-planned rendezvous here on the east coast.
We decided to celebrate this meeting with a visit to what we now consider to be one of Tasmania's best wineries, Devil's Corner, located only a few kilometres north of Swansea. Liz and I had briefly called in on our return from the Freycinet, and thought then that this would make the ideal venue for a grand day out with friends.
Apart from food and wine, the highway entrance sign promotes the "stunning" views....I'll let you be the judge.
With the Cruiser lined up with everyone else in the necessarily long car park (this place is more than popular)
we wandered along the entrance roadway to a feature not often found at a cellar door....
a lookout tower.
What an inspired idea this is. Below its lofty heights lay what must be one of Tassie's highlight scenes.
Vineyards, rows of sheltering trees, the waters of Moulting Lagoon and the jagged peaks of the Hazards all combine to present this breathtaking picture (much better in reality than depicted here in this photo).
We could even just make out the homes of Coles Bay in the far distance.
Immediately below us stood the cellar door and the path to get us there. It was time to get down to the business of the day.
Apart from tasting area, the open plan design of this magnificent establishment features a courtyard dining area with two adjoining food outlets.
For seafood lovers 'The Fishers' offers a range of salty goodies....locally farmed oysters, steamed mussels, fish and chips, seafood burghers, smoked salmon pate, a Vietnamese fish salad........who could not be pleased?
This is all managed by the folk from the nearby Freycinet Marine Farm in what struck me as an eminently sensible local partnership.
For those not thus inclined, the staff of Tombolo offer a range of wood oven pizza (and, of course, coffee,cake and gelato!).
All in due course...first things first. KG and I had to make a decision as to which wines(s) would wash down our lunch and possibly add a bit of weight to our return trip.
The counter staff here were unfailingly charming, informative without a hint of pretension and.......and....at last, a Tasmanian cellar door where tasting can be undertaken without charge! Needless to say no rapid decisions were taken, but eventually it did become time to add a little more substance to the present intake.
The pizza was perfect and the seafood sensational. Rather than dine in the courtyard we chose an outside bench at the front of the complex where we settled in for a leisurely lunch, accompanied by a fine tipple,
and a magnificent view,
finished off with the obligatory 'happy snap'!
But we were not about to let this end the day. We were on a roll. Happy hour under the awning (your scribe will admit to being more than happy by this stage...Devil's Corner make a fine drop!)
was followed by the inspired idea that today none amongst us was to darken a galley of any kind (apart from rustling up a quick salad). 'When in Rome'! Take-away Swansea seafood in the comfort of Sue and KG's cabin made for the perfect end to a perfect day.
This was, and remains, one of the highlight days of our trip. Liz and I are always happy in our own travelling company, but to share some of our experiences with great friends adds that special something!
Well, dear readers, that is it for Swansea. It really needs no postscript, but I just could not move on without sharing this with you, a sign over the highway bridge which crosses the Wye River just north of the town.
No comment necessary! Now we're off to St Helens.
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