We had decided to use our time in Cervantes to also range further afield. We had been told of Green Head, another small coastal cray fishing and tourist town some 60 kms to the north. En route we would pass through the largest of the seaside towns in the area, Jurien Bay.
Green Head is clearly a town which has been 'discovered'. A large scale housing development now sits side by side with the buildings of the original fishing village. A seafront lookout provided an ideal spot for an overview.
Panning left, the remainder of the township came into view.
But we hadn't really come to see the town.....we were more interested in the caravan park and the beaches. You will note that the park does not appear as a photo....it had no appeal to us and was crossed of our list of possible later destinations.
The beach was a different matter altogether. Another gem. White sand enclosed by the
rocky arms of headlands at either end, crystal clear water, rollers creaming over the outer reef ledge, and, unusually for this part of the coast, a hint of surf.
Considering that WA was in the grip of school holidays, we were surprised by the dearth of holiday makers enjoying what the Green Head beach had to offer. We did, however, spy one young chap who was very much a 'man on mission'. What a 'postcard shot'!
Beyond the northern headland of the swimming beach lies the working end of the town where a service jetty supports the limited cray fleet based here. At the time of our visit a small truck had rolled along the jetty. We suspected that a cray boat's arrival was imminent. Indeed it was, as we later saw.
Our Cervantes neighbour, Karl, had told us of some pristine secluded beaches north of Green Head and of some interesting tracks to access them. So, north we drove. He was right about the tracks (and the beaches).
Even the well maintained gravel road to the coast presented an interesting phenomenon...the shifting sands of the Coral Coast to which we were first alerted by this strategically placed sign.
Before we had reached this point on the road, we could see one of the long, high, longitudinal dunes rearing up out of the surrounding scrub.
This is a very large mound of sand. To give some perspective, if you look very closely at the bush on the ridge in the centre of the photo, you will just make out what appears to be stick projecting upwards from its centre.....that is actually a man who was wandering around the dune with his family, the rest of whom can be seen on the ridge at the far right.
Whilst many of the dunes of this area have been stabilised by the coastal plants which surprisingly seem to thrive in this relatively harsh environment, some are shifting. This one was definitely one the move....drifting northwards under the prevailing southerly wind of the coast....right across the road.
Although the local authorities keep the roadway clear, the sand was continuing its inexorable march north. It was fascinating to see the genesis of a new dune in its formative stage on the opposite side of the road.
What a wonderful spot. The sands of these beaches are held together quite tightly by the stringy strands of a local seaweed with the result that beach driving is often possible with a conventional drive vehicle, and is an obvious doddle with 4WD. Small rocky islets feature in most bays, fish are to be had from any part of the shore, and sheltered swimming is on offer throughout.
Just beyond Billy Goat Bay, on our way to Point Louise, we came across another pristine cove, the name of which now escapes me. Let me draw your attention to the dot on the sand at the far end of the bay. It is a tent!
If this is not the epitome having a beach all to one's self, I have never seen it. This enterprising family had parked on the track behind the dunes and carted their gear over the ridge to the beach below. What a day out...perfect beach isolation and only a ten minute drive from Green Head.
The southern tip of Point Louise provides a wonderful vantage point from which to look south over the outer reefs and harbour of Green Head,
and at its extremity the ground underfoot is relatively comfortable.
To get there, however is something of a challenge. A reasonable set of steps lead from the headland car park to the neck of the point where
rock formations like this have to be scaled by what ever route one chooses. Carrying a camera at the same time adds significantly to the degree of difficulty.
But it was worth it...I had spotted the incoming cray boat, the arrival of which we had thought imminent when at the jetty. With personal damage limited to one barked and bleeding shin, I had the ideal spot from which to watch it negotiate the reef,
and make its way into the safe waters of Green Head harbour.
Liz thought I was mad, but this was just something one does not see every day. And so, after the scramble back to the Cruiser we were on the return leg. Jurien Bay awaits.
Our visit to this largest of the coastal towns in this area was brief. To be frank, its appeal was limited to us. Too big, too flash, too crowded.
But we did visit the local marina, the approach to which took us along another coastal avenue of splendid Norfolk Island pines.
Jurien Bay is much more the place of large homes and boats than its neighbours to the north and south which is clearly reflected in the infrastructure of the marina
and in the size of the houses at the end of the lawn which runs along the marina beach.
And speaking of size....this would have to be the biggest boat trailer we have ever seen. Strangely enough, it was being towed by a truck.
at the end of which the local jetty is accessed via this plaza.
This jetty is for recreational activities only, and is considerably longer than that in Cervantes.
The Jurien Bay beach is also much longer and wider than those of other local towns, and much more commercial. Large holiday apartment blocks line the foreshore roads and the entire beach front was quite busy. I am sure Jurien Bay provides just what many holiday makers are looking for, but this did not include us. We much prefer the smaller towns.
Having said that, I must admit that one real advantage of these larger towns is the broader range of services available, including a supermarket. We did take advantage of this to stock up on a few goodies before making our way back to Cervantes. We have found that it's the little non-essential but desirable things which can drain a travelling food budget quickly. Take that seemingly insignificant munchie, BBQ Shapes, for example. In Cervantes these were on the shelf with a price tag of $4.00. In Jurien we snapped up a few packets on special for $2.10. It all mounts up (oh, and by the way we did buy considerably more than just BBQ Shapes).
From the coast to the sands of the Pinnacles. Tomorrow is another day.
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