FITZROY CROSSING - SPRING CREEK AND SOME FREE CAMPING (8 - 9 JUNE 2015)

Our Fitzroy Crossing adventure had ended on a really high note. Now it was time to head further into the East Kimberley. We had decided to break up the run north to Kununurra with two free camp overnight stops. Making these decisions based on the information in our large Camps 7 book is always something of a punt when we've not been past previously and made travelling notes.  Mary Pool, a large camp site on the banks of the Mary River, looked as though it would fit the bill for today. 

We began our short run of just less them 200 kms early. We had head that Mary Pool is a very popular spot.  The secret to securing a good site is to arrive before the hoards.  

The low scrub land of the broad grazing plains lay before us as we made our way out of Fitzroy Crossing on the south-east loop of the Great Northern Highway.

Glimpses of distant ranges came and went as we headed further into the Fitzroy River catchment.

On this corner someone before us must have had a few exciting moments if these skid marks were any indication.

Another highway milestone.....we had just entered the Shire of Halls Creek. This is the real outback.

The country was becoming more and more hilly as the highway slowly swung to the east.

Roadside bluffs appeared more frequently











before we once again drove through a section of flat, open plains. We were right on the northern edge of the Great Sandy Desert which stretches across the continent from the coast near 80 Mile Beach almost to the Northern Territory border. That is a very large tract of not much at all!








Almost before we knew it the entrance road into Mary Pool beckoned. It was not yet 1000 hours......we had made very good time.

This colourful sign at the beginning of the roadway into the camp site presented a very powerful plea to those using the area to ensure that they kept the place clean and tidy. 











We had one last challenge with which to deal before settling in........the causeway across the Mary River had definitely seen better days.









Our progress across this very rough strip of old cement was slow indeed. To our left the dry bed of the Mary River was home to a heard of distant wandering cattle (which would often meander through the camp)










whilst on the other side of the causeway the rocky river bed and residual pools was in complete contrast.

The camp was as large as we had expected....and very dry....and very dusty,






and as the day progressed, it filled rapidly. The wisdom of our early arrival became clear

within a hour of reaching this very popular spot. As is the case with many of these more sought after areas, a 24 hour maximum period of stay is stipulated. I'm sure you'll not be surprised to hear that many ignore these rules.  This was clearly the case here, but did not have an adverse affect on us.




Shade was critical. The days were still very hot. I was far from inclined to have to break out the generator to provide air conditioned heat relief for the Ship's Cat if that could be avoided.









Our comfort was assured as I drew into a wide, dry grassed area under large gums. The awning went out immediately. We had heard many tales of idiot camper van drivers pulling in so close to other vans in these free camps that there was hardly any space between the two. This was not going to happen to us!



Almost as soon as we had set up a nearby couple, who were about to leave, came over for a chat. This was to prove the beginning of several encounters both en route to, and later at, Kununurra.

Our day passed uneventfully with one exception when we were covered with clouds of dust generated by a clown who drove in through the open expanses at warp speed. We were not the only ones to be up in arms.....heads poked out of all the surrounding vans. I'd had enough of this type of inconsiderate moron.....you may not be surprised to read that in a very sharp subsequent (and particularly one sided) exchange I presented this idiot with some alternative behaviour options. He was at least gracious enough (or sufficiently intimidated by your scribe in a state of high dudgeon) to ask me to convey his apologies to all around. I did so to the collective approbation of all. Hhhmmmph!


Another early start was on the books. Of course we had remained hitched overnight so our departure preparations were simple and quick. We made our way out of Mary Pool and back onto the highway under cloudy skies.










Today's journey of some 215 kms to Spring Creek would take us through Halls Creek and beyond. We made our hilly approach through the morning gloom into Halls Creek with some sense of anticipation. What would we find here? 











This is very much an indigenous township. Would this be evident? It was.









We had no plans to stay here long. Apart from our need for fuel, we were on a quest to find the local Post Office so Liz could send off a birthday greeting to one of her nephews. Our quick jaunt through a couple of the back streets of Halls Creek showed us that this is a very tidy town.

The modern local hospital appeared to be new and was set in pretty grounds.










And that. dear readers, was the extent of our Halls Creek photography. But we did gain an impression of the town which was all favourable. Liz was greeted most politely at the service station counter, all we saw in this most whistle-stop of visits was neat and tidy and the several locals we encountered were quick to say g'day. There is quite a deal to see in the surrounding areas. Halls Creek is on our list for 'next time'.




With the cruiser's tanks awash we were off again. Beyond Halls Creek the Great Northern Highway swings to the north into the increasingly hilly East Kimberley.











We had left the open country behind us, but not the grazing roadside cattle for which we were on a constant lookout.

This was much more interesting scenery.









The various mountain ranges of the East Kimberley were now our constant companions, lying as they were shrouded in the distant haze of this overcast day. And we were still traversing the Fitzroy River catchment!







The free camp at Spring Creek has two distinct areas. Our book of words made it clear that the upper section would accommodate big rigs, the implication being that this would not be the case lower down hear the stream. I toddle off down the dirt roadway to find out for myself before final decisions were taken.








What a pretty spot this is. This site does not carry a 24 hour embargo, and it was obvious that many here were well settled.










I was quickly invited by several campers nearby to consider this spot for our overnight stay and although we could have fitted, I was more concerned about the fact that, later in the day, this patch would be fully occupied.






The upshot of this would mean a constant stream of later arrivals circumnavigating the dirt roadway in search of a site. The spectre of a constant dust haze for some hours did not appeal at all. I had become a much more canny evaluator of the pros and cons of these free camps.






This was a shame. The nearby watercourse (I'm not quite sure what it is...presumably Spring Creek!) was a picture of cool riparian charm on this warming morning, both downstream,









and in the opposite direction. I had no difficulty whatsoever understanding why those for whom periods of dust is not a problem, would happily drop anchor here for an extended stay.





But for the MobileMarshies it was to be the bitumen surfaces of the upper park where the lack of shade was thankfully off-set by the fact that the day remained fairly overcast and brought with it a cooling breeze. We set up in the far corner of this large parking area.

As we were doing so we saw that the rig in front of us looked remarkably like that of our conversation companions of yesterday morning at Mary Pool. It and the van next to us were unoccupied, and one vehicle was missing. "What do you reckon, Lizzie?  I'll bet they've gone into the Bungles for the day."  And that's exactly what had happened.

The road entrance into the famous Bungle Bungle national park is only a few hundred metres from Spring Creek. Many use this camp site as a base for a day trip into this remarkable area. As we were later told, the road is a shocker.  We had already made the decision to take an organised tour into the Bungles on our return trip to the west. By all accounts this was a wise move. 

By 1630 hours that afternoon all our neighbours had returned to base. A brief previous acquaintance was rekindled and another made. We shared a delightful and entertaining very extended happy hour under the stars at Spring Creek with two couples with whom we were to later spend much more time in Kununurra.

There are times when this free camping lurk can be great fun. And before we leave Spring Creek I must share another of those signs I spot from time to time. If you look at the preceding photo of our site, you will see a large bus at the right of the shot. 







This was owned by a retired dairy farmer and his wife who had pulled the pin and were off around Oz. Their sense of humour was obvious.





Our two nights 'roughing it' had been a great success. All our new electrical systems performed as they were designed to do, we had met new friends and saved some money. Tomorrow would be the haul into Kununurra.  I have not included that run in this missive. We were about to drive through some of the most spectacular scenery we had encountered to date.  The camera went into overdrive.