Sunday 16 August 2015

THE CARAVAN PARK, THE LODGE AND AN UNWELCOME INTRODUCTION TO FITZROY CROSSING (4 JUNE 2015)

As I have done more often than I would care to admit in the past I must begin this missive with a 'mea culpa'. The more astute amongst you may have noted that, to my great editorial embarrassment, I have been prone to omitting the last 'e' in my spelling of 'Kimberley' in past blogs........a foolish error too difficult to correct but rectified from now on. 

So with that off my chest, let's take a quick trip around the grounds and facilities of the Fitzroy River Lodge, a place which, despite our homework, took us somewhat by surprise. That comment deserves some context. 

Fitzroy Crossing and Halls Creek (ignoring the 50 kms detour north to Derby and the small settlement of Turkey Creek) are the only two towns along the entire stretch of The Great Northern Highway between Broome and Kununuarra. So? Well, that's over 1,000 kilometres! Not only that, this is a township with a history of significant social unrest. For the first time in many, many months we reached our destination with the niggling thought that things may become a little trying from time to time. This proved true....not some much trying as annoying.





The grounds of the Fitzroy River Lodge are nothing if not expansive as I am sure the shots in my previous blog show. Here we are again on our huge site surrounded by a forest of shade trees and open space. 







From the front of our patch we looked out over the widely spaced park cabins area










and across the expanses of the grassy, unpowered section of the park to the buildings of the motel and restaurant beyond. Talk about a room with a view.












Behind us loomed the large mound on which the very well appointed ablution block was situated, high and dry above the flood plain.










From this vantage point I could look down along the row of sites in which we were happily ensconced, all lying vacant in the early morning. (I think I mentioned in my last that this was not the case by mid-afternoon).





Below 'the heads', on the other side of the mound, the sites under the mass of shade tress were a little more crowded (as was the case throughout our stay). We did look at these on arrival but decided things were far too squeezy in this part of the park.....and we actually preferred a spot of sun during the middle of day. Afternoon shade is the secret in these climes.








Close by is the large camp kitchen and second set of toilets.












We had no need to use this facility, but it looked fit for purpose to me.












And now for 'The Lodge' itself. This is an impressive set up.









The front entrance leads to the most 'up market' caravan park reception area we had ever come across. All this just for us?? Not quite. The caravan check in is actually confined to the desk on the left of the shot....the other reception area is for the motel guests and those booking in for diner and so on. The formal dining area is located through the double glass doors between the ends of the two check in counters.







The formality of this room (I was unable to get a photo of it unfortunately) is complemented by a delightful al fresco area which joins it via an outside balcony area. This was a very popular spot at breakfast time.










From here the grounds of the park and some of its roadways are in full view,













a view which includes the park tennis court











which lies just beyond the block of two storey motel units (of which these are but a part).






This is a practical piece of design work. By lifting the rooms well above the flood plain a shaded undercover parking area is created, something which does not go astray in this part of the world.






As could be expected, the park pool is not too far away. For us 'ground dwellers' access is provided via this short stairway.








Nestled as it is amongst some of the motel units, the pool provides a lovely outlook for some as well as a cooling dip or the opportunity to disport oneself in the sun.












From here a covered walkway leads to the centre of the action....the bars.













This short walk provides pleasures other than a quiet tipple at the other end. These gorgeous pink frangipani
were abundant in the Lodge gardens












and the outlook across the flood plain through the boabs and other trees was anything but unpleasant.











The walkway leads directly to the front of the building and the bar verandah where the tables and chars sat empty in the early morning light. This all changed later in the day, believe me! 








This notice posted large on the balcony wall was enough to alert me to the fact that things 


probably become a little chirpy here from time to time, as indeed they do.  From opening time at midday, both the inside bar and this outdoor area become busy.  And here we had our first taste of Fitzroy Crossing culture, and some of the problems associated with it.

I have not taken any shots of the drinking activity here for a very good reason....we soon discovered that the clientele is predominately indigenous, of whom a reasonable percentage were quickly less than entirely on the planet. I decided that wandering around taking happy snaps was prone to misunderstanding, a position borne out by the events of the evening prior to our arrival, when the patrons of this ostensibly up market watering hole had apparently decided that a full scale donnybrook was the most appropriate way to end their afternoon's festivities.

From all we could gather it had been well and truly on for young and old.  How appearances can be deceptive.....this was the last thing we had expected when looking around on arrival. 

We learnt all this when we breasted the bar late on the afternoon of our arrival. Imagine our surprise when eyeing off the fully stocked bar fridges, when we were told that, yes, Liz could have a glass of Sav. Blanc, but it would have to be watered down, and yes, I could have a beer.....any beer I chose as long as it was only mid strength.

"Hang on, the fridge is full of serious beers. What's going on?"  As you might imagine, this question was put a little tersely. To cut a long story short, consistent with a local accord, the management had decided to limit the amount of alcohol available over the bar to any one individual for a few days following the stoush.  What bloody nonsense.....this is an establishment which purports to be somewhat up market. Rooms here are not cheap nor is the food. 

My ire was not appeased when told that unadulterated wine and full strength beers were available for those using the dining room or resident in the motel rooms. Needless to say we neither remained on this occasion nor did we visit the bar again, other than to have a meeting with the manager the following morning when I pointed out that whilst I understood the need for restraint, it would be make very good business sense to make these restrictions clear to all newcomers on arrival (before they came to the bar) and to provide an alternative means by which those who can enjoy a quiet tipple without feeling the need to fight, could do so.  I remain unconvinced that my point was well taken, but I did get a good hearing.

So sadly, our introduction to this otherwise wonderful park was slightly soured by the social restraints imposed on all by the behaviour of a few of our coloured cousins (the only protagonists in the aforementioned fracas) and we were left wondering if all we had heard of this place might be true. On the bright side, we did save a deal of money!

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