I don't know the answer to the question posed in the title of this missive, but suffice it to say in all our travels to date we have never come across any town, village, hamlet or general area which can legitimately challenge Seventeen Seventy's claim to being unique in its nomenclature.
In doing a spot of pre-blog homework I discovered that the Queensland authorities insist that every official road sign, such as this at the road junction in Agnes Water, must spell the name in full rather than reduce it to numbers. Why? I have no idea. Surely the powers that be could not claim to be concerned that to post 1770 might be confused with a distance! Whatever the reason, we did not find any instance where local or other authorities had breached this edict. Private premises were a different matter altogether.
Agnes Water and 1770 (I am not shackled by official requirements) are considered twin towns although they are quite separate and about 8 kms apart on opposite sides of the Round Head peninsular, sometimes know also as Bustard Head.
Hopefully this aerial, courtesy "dive1770", might provide some perspective. Agnes Water lies at the far end of the long beach on the left of the photo....1770 nestles in the crescent shaped cove on the right, on the shore directly opposite the large sand bank.
If you peer closely you may discern a series of white dots in the channel between the shore and the bank.... these are vessels lying at the moorings of which we shall see more later.
En route to 1770 I had to make a short detour. I had been told by a lifesaver on patrol at Agnes Water on the Sunday afternoon that the local club house was located at the far end of the beach, some 5kms from the caravan park.
And sure enough, here it is, an imposing building, but sadly the restaurant and bar which used to be part of the Club's operations, are now closed. Indeed, the entire complex looked rather weary....I didn't get to the bottom of what has happened here.
We knew that the original club was located near the caravan park. What prompted the shift, the expansion and subsequent decline is something we could not fathom. One thing which did surprise me, however, was the fact that the clubhouse is quite some distance from the beach. Our brief time here did not allow me the chance to delve further.
With that small mystery unsolved, we pushed on along the tree lined Captain Cook Drive towards 1770.
Obviously this is only a short drive, and we were soon on the approach to town.
We had made a quick sortie out here on the day of our arrival (I couldn't contain my curiosity), but on this occasion we decided to leave the Cruiser opposite the town marine complex and resort to shank's pony for our exploration of the town.
Apart from the fact that we are of the firm view that the best way to really take in a new town is on foot, we needed the exercise, and at this point the weather was still more than encouraging of this activity.
At this end of town we find the garish pink hulls of the tourist 'ducks', amphibious vehicles which take visitors on a tour of the channels and sandbanks in Bustard Bay. As would be expected, the building here houses a cafe (we did not tarry)
and leads to the local marina where an array of seagoing craft including the large day cruiser "Lady Musgrave", a range of 'tinnies' and various paddle craft, highlights the fact that this is very much a place which is geared to, and relies on, the tourist dollar.
As a quick aside, we had heard about Lady Musgrave Island before. Apart from the fact that it and the nearby Lady Elliot Island are the most southerly of the Great Barrier Reef, Lady Musgrave in particular is a visitors' paradise.
This incredible isle consists of the 14 hectares of the island itself, surrounded as you can see by 1,190 hectares of shallow reef and and enclosed lagoon, through which a narrow but quite navigable channel allows access by quite large vessels. Originally mined for its guano, Lady Musgrave is now a tourist mecca. The lagoon provides sheltered diving and snorkeling opportunities where the corals on show and the fish life are said to be the best and most colourful along the entire Barrier Reef.
We may yet get to visit. Although 1770 provides the closest departure point, the steaming distance from the port of Bundaberg, Burnett Heads, is not much further. And guess what...the owners of the park at which we stay in Kurrimine Beach have a home at Burnett Heads and a 60 ft ocean going cruiser. We have been invited to join them on a cruise around these islands for a few days on our next trip north. All I have to do now is convince the co-pilot, who is, and always has been, less than comfortable in or on anything which floats, that this is a vessel of substance (three decks), comfort and safety. We plan to be back this way next year......the campaign begins now!
But I digress. Back to the 1770 marina, where thoughtfully (and commercially sensible) placed tables and seats overlooking the moorings allow those who wish to munch on their cafe purchases al fresco may do so whilst taking in the admirable views.
The Mobile Marshies were just that. There was to be no tarrying here. We had other fish to fry. Just beyond the marina area, a very well made and maintained walking trail extends along the entire length of the town.
It begins at the southern end of the rather oddly named 'Air Sea Rescue Park'.
Here the trail below the road
which takes traffic into the very short 1770 'town CBD'
soon brought us to the playground
and picnic area which form the real start of the ramble along the 1770 seafront.
Here, at the beginning of the board walk over which we were soon to stroll for some distance,
we found the first of many informative plaques detailing some of the facts of Cook's visit.
As you can read, Cook anchored "Endeavour" a sensible few kilometres out to sea and came ashore with the ship's botanist Banks and his worthy personal assistant, one Mr Sollander, on 24 May 1770. This was the first landfall made by Cook or his crew since they stepped ashore in Botany Bay some many months earlier and the town now adds the claim of being Queensland's birthplace to the novelty of its name.
Several other plaques attracted my attention. Not least of these was one which explains how the nearby inlet got it name. What a bonanza this bird and the fish and oysters Cook and his crew collected during their brief sojourn here must have been after very long periods of sea rations. Sailing ships of this era were not known for the quality of the food which emerged from their galley. Weevil riddled hard tack, salt pork (hopefully not putrid) and other such delicacies were all that was usually available to those who chose a 'life before the mast' in this era.
Cook's recognition of the fact that the medial scourge of sailors of the time, scurvy, could be ameliorated if not completely eradicated by the consumption of fresh fruit, which his ships always carried, made him one of the more enlightened captains of his day, but notwithstanding this, there were decided limits on what could be carried by way of foodstuffs in these days before refrigeration. How the old salts and young tars must have rejoiced at the prospect of the bounty from the sea they had harvested here.
Cook's logs do not record having seen or made contact with the locals. But his activities were well noted by the resident aboriginals.
How Banks would have rankled if he had been aware of this critique of his activities! Cook's visit here was nothing if not fleeting.....after coming ashore during the day or his arrival, "Endeavour" resumed her voyage north along the coast at 0400 hours the following morning.
And although Cook gave Bustard Bay its name, he did not name the district 1770. This area was originally known as Round Hill. It was not until a luminary within the Queensland public sector decided that the name 1770 (sorry, Seventeen Seventy) would be a most fitting way to commemorate the bicentenary of Cook's landing, that the town officially took this mantle on 24 May 1970.
From the southern end of the park the boardwalk took us along the beachfront
initially, at least, through the well manicured lawns of this excellent coastal linear park.
At many points along the kilometre of so of this section of our walk, views out across the channels, sandbanks and moorings of the inlet were freely available.
As we neared the end of the 'town CBD' on our right, the boardwalk gave way to a cement path
and from here we could take in the view around the sweep of the cove to the end of the headland. It was evident with the low state of the tide that 1770 is another of the Queensland beaches which are very much a combination of a high, narrow strip of sand and much more extensive mudflats below.
At several points along the trail, sections branched off to connect with the roadway above. This allows folk from the houses along this section of the town road to easily access the lower track, which many did.
As we neared the far end of the trail, our surrounds became decidedly more rustic.
Here the coastal scrub was much denser,
and it was on this section that we came across a series of small plaques
which provided interesting details about the flora through which we were walking. This one, for example, not only described the habit and characteristics of the beach bean, but included the notation that Cook and his crew actually harvested the pods of beans regularly between 1768 - 1771 to provide a valuable addition to their diet as "Endeavour" roamed the world.
Our tramp was nearly at an end, or at least this section of it. We were back on boards, and the trail now took us right to the edge of the 'beach' where the ubiquitous mangroves of this part of the world became a feature of the shoreline.
As we have often found in the tropics, the intense greens of the thick rain forest types of foliage are often interspersed with flashes of delightful colour, and here it was no different.
And indeed, as we neared the park at the end of the trail, a virtual mirror of that at its other end,
we saw even more local colour, this time adorning the frames of a disappointingly brusque clutch of local matrons who clearly felt that acknowledging the cheery greetings of two intruders into their closeted world with anything more effusive than a muttered grunt was far beneath them. Ah well!
In this northern park we came across more public showers and another notice sternly warning against the use of soaps or shampoos. Good luck with that! This place is a magnet for backpackers.
Here too, those wishing to stroll along the northern end of the 1770 foreshore can access the sands with ease.
We had by now arrived at entrance to the much heralded 1770 Camping Ground where the delights of camping right on the foreshore with its wonderful beach (??), safe swimming and fishing are extolled at length.
It was time to see what we were missing. The park office advertises its high class beach cafe,
but we cannot comment on the quality of the fare offered here......on the day of our visit it was shut.
As we wandered through the grounds (the management of this park are always very quick to point out that it is a 'camp ground' not a caravan park.....particularly when comments on 'tripadvisor' are less than flattering of the facilities on offer) we could see that this is well described.
This large park does offer many sites under good shade, but with nary a blade of good ground green in sight. Here a sandy floor is very much the order of the day.
Now I mentioned earlier that this was to be our second visit....we had popped in here briefly on the Sunday of our arrival. And look at the contrast.
These two shots give some idea of the difference. It became clear to us that weekend warriors crowd into 1770 for two days of frenetic activity before, like the outgoing tide, they all drift off back to Bundaberg or Gladstone and relative calm descends on the shores of 1770.
There is no doubt that absolute beach front camping is available here at 1770. We wandered past many who had set up right on the shore.
At least one couple was determined to make the most of the views.
This is what visually greets those who take up residence on the 'front', looking north
and to the south.
We were told that as evening approaches, campers here migrate to the beachfront en mass to watch the sunset. And here I discovered that the tourism poobahs have been just a little sparing with the truth when they sell Agnes Water as being one of the three spots on the east coast from which the sun setting over the water can be seen. This is just not so....it is from 1770 that this natural spectacle can be enjoyed. This intertwining of 'local selling points' in not uncommon here. Many holiday facilities which are located at the northern end of Agnes Water unashamedly and quite falsely advertise themselves as being at 1770! Why? No idea.
But back to the 'real' 1770. As we left the camp ground, the unmistakable throb of a large diesel motor (or two) assailed our ears. Sure enough, one of the local big 'stinkies' was making its way down the channel of Round Hill Creek to the open sea, clear evidence that even at a quite low tide, this is a navigable waterway.
Having tramped the trail on the beach front on the outward leg of our jaunt, we took the upper roadway for the return ramble.
In many places there is very little distance between the two.
Those who call 1770 home, either permanently or on a part time basis, occupy domiciles of real variety. On the short walk to the 'CBD', we passed grand modern palaces,
At many points along the kilometre of so of this section of our walk, views out across the channels, sandbanks and moorings of the inlet were freely available.
As we neared the end of the 'town CBD' on our right, the boardwalk gave way to a cement path
and from here we could take in the view around the sweep of the cove to the end of the headland. It was evident with the low state of the tide that 1770 is another of the Queensland beaches which are very much a combination of a high, narrow strip of sand and much more extensive mudflats below.
At several points along the trail, sections branched off to connect with the roadway above. This allows folk from the houses along this section of the town road to easily access the lower track, which many did.
As we neared the far end of the trail, our surrounds became decidedly more rustic.
Here the coastal scrub was much denser,
and it was on this section that we came across a series of small plaques
which provided interesting details about the flora through which we were walking. This one, for example, not only described the habit and characteristics of the beach bean, but included the notation that Cook and his crew actually harvested the pods of beans regularly between 1768 - 1771 to provide a valuable addition to their diet as "Endeavour" roamed the world.
Our tramp was nearly at an end, or at least this section of it. We were back on boards, and the trail now took us right to the edge of the 'beach' where the ubiquitous mangroves of this part of the world became a feature of the shoreline.As we have often found in the tropics, the intense greens of the thick rain forest types of foliage are often interspersed with flashes of delightful colour, and here it was no different.
And indeed, as we neared the park at the end of the trail, a virtual mirror of that at its other end,
we saw even more local colour, this time adorning the frames of a disappointingly brusque clutch of local matrons who clearly felt that acknowledging the cheery greetings of two intruders into their closeted world with anything more effusive than a muttered grunt was far beneath them. Ah well!
In this northern park we came across more public showers and another notice sternly warning against the use of soaps or shampoos. Good luck with that! This place is a magnet for backpackers.
Here too, those wishing to stroll along the northern end of the 1770 foreshore can access the sands with ease.
We had by now arrived at entrance to the much heralded 1770 Camping Ground where the delights of camping right on the foreshore with its wonderful beach (??), safe swimming and fishing are extolled at length.
It was time to see what we were missing. The park office advertises its high class beach cafe,
but we cannot comment on the quality of the fare offered here......on the day of our visit it was shut.
As we wandered through the grounds (the management of this park are always very quick to point out that it is a 'camp ground' not a caravan park.....particularly when comments on 'tripadvisor' are less than flattering of the facilities on offer) we could see that this is well described.
This large park does offer many sites under good shade, but with nary a blade of good ground green in sight. Here a sandy floor is very much the order of the day.
Now I mentioned earlier that this was to be our second visit....we had popped in here briefly on the Sunday of our arrival. And look at the contrast.
These two shots give some idea of the difference. It became clear to us that weekend warriors crowd into 1770 for two days of frenetic activity before, like the outgoing tide, they all drift off back to Bundaberg or Gladstone and relative calm descends on the shores of 1770.
There is no doubt that absolute beach front camping is available here at 1770. We wandered past many who had set up right on the shore.
At least one couple was determined to make the most of the views.
This is what visually greets those who take up residence on the 'front', looking north
and to the south.
We were told that as evening approaches, campers here migrate to the beachfront en mass to watch the sunset. And here I discovered that the tourism poobahs have been just a little sparing with the truth when they sell Agnes Water as being one of the three spots on the east coast from which the sun setting over the water can be seen. This is just not so....it is from 1770 that this natural spectacle can be enjoyed. This intertwining of 'local selling points' in not uncommon here. Many holiday facilities which are located at the northern end of Agnes Water unashamedly and quite falsely advertise themselves as being at 1770! Why? No idea.
But back to the 'real' 1770. As we left the camp ground, the unmistakable throb of a large diesel motor (or two) assailed our ears. Sure enough, one of the local big 'stinkies' was making its way down the channel of Round Hill Creek to the open sea, clear evidence that even at a quite low tide, this is a navigable waterway.
Having tramped the trail on the beach front on the outward leg of our jaunt, we took the upper roadway for the return ramble.
In many places there is very little distance between the two.
Those who call 1770 home, either permanently or on a part time basis, occupy domiciles of real variety. On the short walk to the 'CBD', we passed grand modern palaces,
rustic retreats
and a few where obviously privacy was of significance such as to those nestled here behind the screen of bush.It was at about this point that I heard the sound of another motor. A quick glance through the trees on the seaward side of the road revealed the source. One of the garishly pink amphibians was waddling its way out of the channel onto the sandbank, undoubtedly thrilling its passengers. I can only hope that the focus on their holiday snaps is much better than mine on this occasion!
We later spied this same versatile craft happily chugging back along the channel to the marina and I have to admit to a flash of temptation to joint the next outing if for no other reason that to take a whole new range of photos. But the demands of time and frugality won out...my tail feathers did not grace any of the seats of this 'duck'.
At this end of the 'hub of 1770',
we came across this local classic.
The land agent's board touted this as one of the first houses to be built here in 1770. We had no trouble accepting that. And we were equally convinced that this old wooden home stood on a very desirable bit of 1770's real estate with views from front and back, but we were not tempted.
From a real commercial perspective there is not a lot to 1770. The Beach Hut holiday apartments
and the 1770 pub are about it. We did tarry for a brief moment at the pub menu board and whilst we were determining that we would have to take out a loan to eat here, the owner bounced across from the front bar deck to make sure we knew that the menu "will be changed tonight". Good manners prevented me asking if any were to be more moderately priced. We both agreed that a drink here on the front deck at sunset would be on our list for any return visit, but as far as the food was concerned, 1770 needs more competition.
So with one last glance at a couple pumping for nippers in the low tide mudflats, we began the final leg of our waking tour through 1770.
As we approached the marina and our trusty transport, I took one last shot of the moorings over the low tide flats. Even at this time of the tide, the Round Hill Creek inlet and Bustard Bay present a picturesque scene.
I had previously managed one shot when the tide had filled in.....what a difference the water can make. Now the beach did look more like a beach.
Like many of these Queensland coastal hideaways, 1770 is not without its mozzies and midges. The provisions for any stay here must include cans of repellent and long sleeved and long legged garments to prevent these wretched insects from making a meal of human arms and legs, particularly during the evening festivities.
Let me complete our whistle stop tour of 1770 with a quick jaunt to the heights at the end of the Round Hill peninsular. Here are the 1770 homes with a different view,
over the oft troubled waters of the Southern Pacific rather than the tranquil expanses of the inlet and moorings on the other side of the peninsular.
As we descended for the last time from 'upper 1770' and made our way back to Captain Cook Drive, we did agree that our three days of discovery here on the 'Discovery Coast' had been well worth the detour off the Bruce Highway.
We would certainly contemplate a return visit at some stage, when we will make our home the upper caravan park at 1770, some couple of kms from the beach front, where all we have been told and read indicates that shaded, grassy tranquillity will be our companions rather than the constant comings and goings of the Agnes Water Beach Caravan Park (the 1770 camp ground is not welcoming of our little furry companion....not that we would stay there in any event).
As you have probably gathered by now our three days here were pretty full to say the least. But with this activity came a problem. The Cruiser's dashboard had been lit up by the fuel filter warning light, and despite my efforts (successful as it later transpired) to drain the offending water from the filter housing, the persistent warning light would not be deactivated.
A quick phone call, and our next destination, unplanned as it was, became Gladstone and the town Toyota dealer. And here we had two more surprises......the park we chose and the town of Gladstone itself.
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