Today was to be the first leg of our trip west along the north coast. Our eventual target destination was Stanley, but we had a few spots on our list before we reached that historic town, including another Tassie pub. The Rocky Cape Tavern is well known for its camping ground, and it is only just over 40 kms from Somerset. This was to be a very short day on the road.
The fog and gloom had finally cleared. Clumps of cumulus cloud hovered overhead as we hauled out of Somerset, west along the Bass Highway, a surprisingly busy road, particularly with all the log jinkers hauling timber to the Burnie woodchipping factory from the forests of the north-west.
I have to say, quite selfishly, that it was great to be travelling along a coast again, particularly when sights like this came into view. Table Cape is a very well know north coast landmark just west of Wynyard.
The north coast of Tasmania is home to a plethora of small and, in many cases, very attractive beach locations. We were to visit Boat Harbour and Sisters Beach later as we roamed around this part of the Apple Isle.
Although not nearly as big as Burnie, Wynyard is a significant north coast town, but because it lies just off the main highway, today we by-passed it.
Is there anywhere on this island which does not provide delightful country scenery? Even with the pastures dessicated by the unusually dry summer, the farming lands of the north-west were a picture.
In a few spots the Bass Highway runs quite close to the coast when sights like this are the result.
This entire area is known for its excellent soils, and paddocks of irrigated pastures are not uncommon.
But as we had come to expect, every Tasmanian highway continues to throw up differing vistas
with every passing kilometre.
Some are more unusual than others. This initially puzzling piece of roadside art made sense once we had the chance to take a closer look. Trees, cattle, wind turbines and the sea represent the forestry, dairy, and fishing industries which predominate throughout this area, together with a large wind farm out near Cape Grim, the most north-westerly point of Tasmania.
And we must not forget the potatoes, grown throughout the north-west in almost unbelievable quantities. The 'local' towns of Ulverstone and Smithton both house large potato processing factories (as we shall see later in Smithton). The regional 'Pink Eye' variety is especially favoured, and after having first sampled these when staying with our good friends at Margate, we could understand why.
One enterprising farming family had obviously had some spare time on their hands. We wondered if someone should remind them that the Festive Season was well and truly over!
Not too far beyond 'Santa on a Bike', a bend in the road and an elevated section of the highway gave us our first view of this famous Tasmanian landmark. 'The Nut' rises high above the historic coastal town of Stanley.
In what is a sadly hazy shot, you can just make out the low lying hull of a large bulk carrier. This was also our first look at Port Latta, the facility at which the iron ore sludge from the Savage River mine is reconstituted and loaded for export to China.
With another few bends negotiated and a few more kilometres covered, we found ourselves in the driveway of the Rocky Cape Tavern, one of the last of the Tassie pubs on our 'crawl' list.
This had, for many moons, been a free camp, but things had changed, as the alterations and obliterations on the camp gate sign made quite clear. For one night only we had no need of the showers (it's amazing what one can do with a flannel and a bowl of hot water), had our own toilet on board and did not need power or water. The $5 option was just right for us.
Duly paid and stamped, we were invited to chose whatever patch we liked. This spot in the front corner, where the fence gave us some protection from both wind and highway noise, suited us. There was a van already in situ next to us, but our widely extended awning guy ropes ensured that no late arriving idiot could try to squeeze in between us.
This may sound a touch paranoid, but you would not believe just how intrusive some can be, particuarly overseas 'backpacker' types who roam the countryside in 'whizz-bangs' or clapped out 4W drives. A good travelling companion of ours once came back to his site in a free camp to find a campervan actually parked on his awning mat. Needless to say, the ensuing discussion was short and sharp.
Even although no longer free, the Rocky Cape Tavern camp ground was excellent, and despite being quiet on our arrival, soon began to fill along this unpowered side of the grounds.
The powered sites were mostly to be found on this far less appealing gravel area,
but for those wanting grass, a few were available at the back end of the park
where a stand of large trees followed the line of a creek which formed the back boundary.
The ablution block stood just behind the small, grassed playground area but given our circumstances, I cannot comment on the standard of the facilities.
A few cabins completed the scene as far as the park was concerned, but of course we still had the tavern to visit.
I have to say that this long, low building was not quite what I had expected, why I don't know. I suspect the word 'tavern' conjured up visions of a much older 'bush' hostelry.
This watering hole sits right on the Bass Highway which, as I mentioned previously, does carry a substantial amount of traffic. Prominent amongst this are trucks from the Toll company, many of which were engaged in moving potato products from the Smithton factory to the port at Burnie.
The scene on the other side of the highway was a reminder of the fact that we were very much in dairy country.
We had decided before arriving that we would take a night off from the galley here and treat ourselves to an evening meal in the pub.
Here we found a modern light and spacious front bar where the obliging staff were more than happy to dispense a pre dinner drink or two. We were equally happy to receive them.
The walls of the passage which led us to the dining room were decorated with large and informative boards, which provided a very good insight into the flourishing timber industry which has existed in this area for decades.
The decor and furnishing of the dining room itself was consistent with the rest of the tavern.....light, modern and functional.
I cannot remember now for the life of me what we had for dinner, but I do recall we were more than happy with both the quality and quantity of the fare on our plates. I also recall, however, that we did spoil ourselves when it same to the wine list. We washed our meals down with a real treat...a Josef Chromy pinot, one of the best drops from one of Tassie's premier wine makers. The Rocky Cape Tavern received the mark of approval from the Mobile Marshies as having upheld the standards of the Tassie pub crawl group.
With this one ticked off we had but two more to do, at Mole Creek and Weldborough, but these were yet some time away. Tomorrow we were off to Smithton.
I have to say, quite selfishly, that it was great to be travelling along a coast again, particularly when sights like this came into view. Table Cape is a very well know north coast landmark just west of Wynyard.
The north coast of Tasmania is home to a plethora of small and, in many cases, very attractive beach locations. We were to visit Boat Harbour and Sisters Beach later as we roamed around this part of the Apple Isle.
Although not nearly as big as Burnie, Wynyard is a significant north coast town, but because it lies just off the main highway, today we by-passed it.
Is there anywhere on this island which does not provide delightful country scenery? Even with the pastures dessicated by the unusually dry summer, the farming lands of the north-west were a picture.
In a few spots the Bass Highway runs quite close to the coast when sights like this are the result.
This entire area is known for its excellent soils, and paddocks of irrigated pastures are not uncommon.
But as we had come to expect, every Tasmanian highway continues to throw up differing vistas
with every passing kilometre.
Some are more unusual than others. This initially puzzling piece of roadside art made sense once we had the chance to take a closer look. Trees, cattle, wind turbines and the sea represent the forestry, dairy, and fishing industries which predominate throughout this area, together with a large wind farm out near Cape Grim, the most north-westerly point of Tasmania.
And we must not forget the potatoes, grown throughout the north-west in almost unbelievable quantities. The 'local' towns of Ulverstone and Smithton both house large potato processing factories (as we shall see later in Smithton). The regional 'Pink Eye' variety is especially favoured, and after having first sampled these when staying with our good friends at Margate, we could understand why.
One enterprising farming family had obviously had some spare time on their hands. We wondered if someone should remind them that the Festive Season was well and truly over!
Not too far beyond 'Santa on a Bike', a bend in the road and an elevated section of the highway gave us our first view of this famous Tasmanian landmark. 'The Nut' rises high above the historic coastal town of Stanley.
In what is a sadly hazy shot, you can just make out the low lying hull of a large bulk carrier. This was also our first look at Port Latta, the facility at which the iron ore sludge from the Savage River mine is reconstituted and loaded for export to China.
With another few bends negotiated and a few more kilometres covered, we found ourselves in the driveway of the Rocky Cape Tavern, one of the last of the Tassie pubs on our 'crawl' list.
This had, for many moons, been a free camp, but things had changed, as the alterations and obliterations on the camp gate sign made quite clear. For one night only we had no need of the showers (it's amazing what one can do with a flannel and a bowl of hot water), had our own toilet on board and did not need power or water. The $5 option was just right for us.
Duly paid and stamped, we were invited to chose whatever patch we liked. This spot in the front corner, where the fence gave us some protection from both wind and highway noise, suited us. There was a van already in situ next to us, but our widely extended awning guy ropes ensured that no late arriving idiot could try to squeeze in between us.
This may sound a touch paranoid, but you would not believe just how intrusive some can be, particuarly overseas 'backpacker' types who roam the countryside in 'whizz-bangs' or clapped out 4W drives. A good travelling companion of ours once came back to his site in a free camp to find a campervan actually parked on his awning mat. Needless to say, the ensuing discussion was short and sharp.
Even although no longer free, the Rocky Cape Tavern camp ground was excellent, and despite being quiet on our arrival, soon began to fill along this unpowered side of the grounds.
The powered sites were mostly to be found on this far less appealing gravel area,
but for those wanting grass, a few were available at the back end of the park
where a stand of large trees followed the line of a creek which formed the back boundary.
The ablution block stood just behind the small, grassed playground area but given our circumstances, I cannot comment on the standard of the facilities.
A few cabins completed the scene as far as the park was concerned, but of course we still had the tavern to visit.
I have to say that this long, low building was not quite what I had expected, why I don't know. I suspect the word 'tavern' conjured up visions of a much older 'bush' hostelry.
This watering hole sits right on the Bass Highway which, as I mentioned previously, does carry a substantial amount of traffic. Prominent amongst this are trucks from the Toll company, many of which were engaged in moving potato products from the Smithton factory to the port at Burnie.
The scene on the other side of the highway was a reminder of the fact that we were very much in dairy country.
We had decided before arriving that we would take a night off from the galley here and treat ourselves to an evening meal in the pub.
Here we found a modern light and spacious front bar where the obliging staff were more than happy to dispense a pre dinner drink or two. We were equally happy to receive them.
The walls of the passage which led us to the dining room were decorated with large and informative boards, which provided a very good insight into the flourishing timber industry which has existed in this area for decades.
The decor and furnishing of the dining room itself was consistent with the rest of the tavern.....light, modern and functional.
I cannot remember now for the life of me what we had for dinner, but I do recall we were more than happy with both the quality and quantity of the fare on our plates. I also recall, however, that we did spoil ourselves when it same to the wine list. We washed our meals down with a real treat...a Josef Chromy pinot, one of the best drops from one of Tassie's premier wine makers. The Rocky Cape Tavern received the mark of approval from the Mobile Marshies as having upheld the standards of the Tassie pub crawl group.
With this one ticked off we had but two more to do, at Mole Creek and Weldborough, but these were yet some time away. Tomorrow we were off to Smithton.
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